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01:28:08 - 12/20/2024
V8 Dakotas
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fastyz400
Dodge Dakota
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10/06/2005
12:02:32
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 Subject: A/C system heater core
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Ok, Here goes. I've done a lot of research into the heater core. I have a 2000 Durango that needs to have it replaced. Now a lot of people are scared when they hear that the a/c must be drained of freon. It's really not so bad and can be done relitivley cheap. I will hopefully post the whole procedure soon.
The A/C can be completely relieved of it's freon by getting one of those can charge lines from Wal-mat. Instead of putting a can on the other side, simply hook it up on the low side and open the valve. Now the a/c is no longer pressurized. You can pull the accumulator out to get to your heater core.
R134a, R12, R12a, Freeze 12 are all freons. the last 2 Freeze 12 and R12a can be put into R134a system with better efficiency than R134a. It is illegal to mix freon. However, if you are going to do it yourself. Who cares. The oil carrying capacity of the freon is really what matters. For example, R12 will not carry ester based oil, thus starving your compressor of needed lubrication. R134a will not carry mineral oil. R12a and Freeze 12 will carry both effectivly.
After the heater core, i will be going with R12a in my R134a system.
Now the evac. How can you have your system vaccumed for cheap? Very simple. If, you have a harbor freight nearby or even order it online your set. Oh, before you do this, make sure that you replace any o-rings on the component that you removed. this can be had at any auto a/c retailer. If, you goto napa or autozone, people will be scrathing their heads. Ok, web address below for the vaccum pump. Does $16.99 sound resonable.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92475
Now, that your system is fully vaccumed, i can put in my R12a. Just charge it on the low side to 30-40 psi, i believe when you rev your engine to 2000 rpm. That's where the low side should be. To check for the amount of oil in your system, there is a cap that you can buy. You put it on and measures the amount of oil. If, it's too low, just add some. You can obtain both R12a and the caps at 888-913-1110. I am not affilited with this company in anyway shape or form.
I will post my heater core change out in the near future.
Peace.
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davec
Dodge Dakota
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10/06/2005
12:53:01
| RE: A/C system heater core
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Wha??? This has to be the worst post I've ever read. When 134A is in the low side...it is STILL pressurized only in liquid form.
So, everyone knows, it is illegal to obtain R-12 refrigerant, as well as open an A/C system without proper certification, licensing, and equipment.
Can I have your name and address??? I'd could use the $10,000 I'd get for turning you in.
And also, the A/C will need to be serviced to replace the heater core. You will also need to pull the entire dash out to remove the heater-a/c housing in order to replace the heater core.
Some people should simply not own vehicles.
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fastyz400
Dodge Dakota
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10/06/2005
13:09:52
| RE: A/C system heater core
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Davec,
Did you even read my post? R12a, not R12, you idiot. R12a is an enviro-safe freon, it's petroleum based. Amosphic life is 1 year compared to 16 yrs for 134a, and over 100 years for R12.
Do a little research before your post Dave. A little education goes a long way. Sure, you can go out and spend tons of money and have your system evac professionaly. That is your choice.
But, most people here, and myself, don't have the cash like yourself Dave to do it. I am just showing people there are alternatives to being ripped off either by the dealer or by independent shops.
You gonna turn in those people that removed the CAT's too? Maybe, you should try making this your full time job.
The crap i get to try to help people save a buck. Dam
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davec
Dodge Dakota
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10/06/2005
14:47:23
| RE: A/C system heater core
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I was a technician in a Dodge dealership...and I have the licenses neccessary to do a/c work. What you are saying is still illegal, whatever kind of "refrigerant" you are using. Sure you can buy 134-A at wal-mart and top your system off but if you don't have the equipment to properly reclaim it, it's illegal. What do you do with the refrigerant you remove from the system? Vent it into the atmosphere??? If the wrong person sees you doing it, you'll definately need to be saving money because they'll fine the sh!t outta you.
I have nothing against saving money here and there. I do all I can to save money as I don't have much either. But I do have something against people putting out bad information. And I also know the difference between right and wrong.
Take your CAT off for all I care. I don't have to inspect your vehicle. That affects you. But, when you tell someone how to do something, make sure you give them the correct information on how to go about it. Especially when it deals with their safety. Have you yourself ever seen an a/c line blow off??? I have, and to someone that has no experience with an a/c system, that could be a dangerous situation. You might not be messing with the lines directly but you never know.
Educations do go a long way...I'm glad I got mine from the Chysler Corporation.
I commend you for trying to help, there's nothing wrong with that...that's the same reason I'm typing this. But you need to think a little deeper about what you are telling people.
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fastyz400
Dodge Dakota
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10/06/2005
17:16:16
| RE: A/C system heater core
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Message:
Sorry Dave, for getting a little hyper. You are correct. I should have never posted this. The best thing to do is to take your car in and have it vacuumed by a professional.
I did a little pricing and most A/C places will evac your system for $20. So, take Dave's advice, have it done by a professional, then go and replace your heater core and accumulator. Then Evac again. So, $40 total on evacs, plus, oil and freon. Whole job, $80 napa for accumulator & heater core. Plus $20 on oil and freon. Total $140. Beats the heck outa $500-$1000.
That is if your up for the challenge.
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davec
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2005
08:15:48
| RE: A/C system heater core
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Now your thinking....good man.
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fastyz400
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2005
10:58:29
| RE: A/C system heater core
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Son of a B****. I can believe why they made the heater core so hard to replace. But, i'm half way. Heater Core is out. But, Napa gave me the wrong heater core. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Hopefully after i get the parts, i'll be done tonight. :)
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davec
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2005
11:03:23
| RE: A/C system heater core
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Might be a dumb question but, are you replacing the heater core (cooling system)...or the evaporator core (a/c system)??? Be sure to hook up that blend air door cable (and all electrical connections for that matter) before you roll the dash back into place!!! Don't want to get it all together and then have to roll it back out to snap the cable on. (ask me how I know)
Dave
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fastyz400
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2005
16:16:14
| RE: A/C system heater core
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ha ha ha,
Shhhhhhh, it's all in my memory right now Dave. Don't bug me, i might forget. :)
Yes, I won't forget, there are 2 vacuum and 1 cable connection for the big black box. Vaccum, 1 goes above the heater core hoses engine side. 1 for the vacuum thingy on near driver side of box. Then theres the temp control cable for the cool / hot air adjuster. :)
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josh
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2005
22:51:17
|  RE: A/C system heater core
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sounds like shade tree mechanics on t.v lol
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fastyz400
Dodge Dakota
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10/08/2005
03:47:22
| RE: A/C system heater core
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Message:
Changing the Heater Core
You can take out your stereo, Instrument, and light switch if you want, but not necessary. I removed my because, I just didn’t want them damaged.
Removing Dash:
Remove the cover plate for the steering column, remove the steel cross member that holds your hood latch and OBDII port, you will have to unscrew the hood latch for the plate to completely drop, now remove the gear selector indicator, you will see a white knob looking thing on the steering column in the middle facing the floor. Remove the vacuum lines, it almost looks like a wiring harness, but butch of vacuum lines that runs to your HVAC knob control on the dash.. You can find this right above the gas peddle. Just look up. Remove the emergency brake release lever Rod. Remove the plastic kicker panel to the left of the emergency brake.
Driver side: Remove 3 wiring harness right behind the fuse box, Blue, White and Brown. Then, right beside the emergency brake peddle, you will see, 3 more, 1 big one which requires a 10mm socket, and 2 more right beside it. Remove the ground wire right below the emergency brake peddle. Remove the ground wire right beside the gas peddle. Now remove the 4 nuts, that holds the steering column up and lay the steering column on the driver side floor, remember to back your sets up all the way.
Center of Vehicle: Right below your ash Tray area, you will see 2 screws, they are mounting holes for the Dash. Remove them, I removed the sheet metal bracket as well 2 on passenger side, 2 on driver side.
Passenger side: Remove the ground wire on the passenger side kicker panel, oh, and remove the plastic kicker panel first. Lol.
Ok, now you got most of the stuff unhooked, let’s take the dash off, 1 big screw on both the driver side and passenger side kicker panel, 5 or 6 right below the windshield. Remove all. Now, you can simply pull the dash off. However, there will still be 2 wires on the passenger side you must remove, before you can completely remove the dash. One is right below the windshield passenger side, the other is located on the black box for the heater core and accumulator. Disconnect both. Oh, and disconnect the little cable, this is for your heater door inside the box. Disconnect the wire for the door first, then remove the cable, just push back and pull (kinda like a wiring harness), it comes out pretty easy.
Great, now lets move into the engine bay area.
Caution, AC lines are high pressure, you must get it evac first prior to starting, this can be done for $20, just don’t goto pep-boys or Those fast Brake service places. They will rob you blind, call around to AC shops in your area. Look in the phone book under “Auto, Air Conditioning”.
Once your ac is free of pressure, remove the nut in the center of your ac manifold. Unscrew, the ac line to your dryer, you will need to do this, so you can pull the line back a bit to remove your evaperator valve. It’s best to replace your Dryer at this time. This is the thingy that almost looks like a aluminum Dildo. Pretty cheap part.
Now, Driver side, you will see 2 rubber hoses going threw your firewall, remove your heater hoses and disconnect the little vacuum line, it’s the line right below the 2 heater hoses, just follow it, and pull to remove.
Now to remove the big black box inside your truck, you will have to remove 3 nuts, 2 on passenger side right beside the a/c lines, and there is one right above your down pipes passenger side. 1 nut on driver side right beside your heater hose lines.
Now you can simply go back inside and pull your black box out.
Remove a bunch of screws that holds your Top cover on, Don’t forget to turn it over too, there are some on the backside. Remove the black vacuum motor and the rod, 2 screws hold it on. Now just lift the cover off and replace the heater core. Or accumulator.
To install just do it in reverse.
Oh, remember to replace the o-rings of the components for the ac, that you took apart. Again goto an A/C parts place. $4 for gasket and o-rings.
Now, just Top off your Radiator fluid and go get an evac and charge. Or you can just go get an evac and charge it yourself. It’s really up to you and how cheap you are.
If, i missed anything, just let me know. I just got finished putting mine back together and everything works. woo hoo.
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