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V8 Dakotas
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kyle
Dodge Dakota
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6/29/2005
20:54:29
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 Subject: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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I have a 92 dakota 318 4x4. I want to fix up the engine. I currently have flowmaster dual exhaust, and a K&N Air Filter. I found headers, computer, throttle body spacers, tornado, and this thing called the turbonator. I was wondering if the turbonator is worth buying? Also, I want to know of any other mods or suggestions on the mods I listed I could do to make more HP and Torque w/o NOS or supercharger. I greatly appreciate your help!
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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6/29/2005
21:18:22
|  RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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Ditch the spacer (makes a great paperweight), tornado, and turbonator. Get a true cold air induction system. Keep the K&N clean. If a '92, wouldn't a rebuild be in order (high mileage)? A good midrange torque cam (CompCams 254HR-12). Headers are great for ultimate power, but your stockers are the good 'uns, so I'd be reluctant to get rid of them. Unless you like paying for premium gas, stick with the stock computer. Add an aftermarket, mandrel-bent y-pipe and hi-flow cat/muffler, no larger than 2.5"pipe. KRC has a timing trick posted on their website that adds 3-4 degrees initial timing advance which helps low-speed torque as well.
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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6/29/2005
21:57:38
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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I have a 92 318. I put the Mopar PCM, M1, home ported TB, K&N and MSD on it. Really made a difference. Still has the stock manifolds and exhaust. I put the M1 on last year too. Had around 176-180k miles when I did it. Now at 191k. The engine has a lot of life left in it but it does need new seals and rings - still consuming oil.
Spacers and the like are worthless. Get a junkyard TB and port it yourself. It will make a difference. I got good results by just using a drop in K&N filter in the stock airbox and removing the weatherplate behind the grille that blocks the air tube.
More expensive mods are 1.7 rockers - works especially well with the 92-93 318s. The Mopar RT cam with 1.7s is a pretty good combo as well. If you really want headers, you should only look at the Mopar/Doug Thorley headers. They had the best gains out of all of them. If you want an open filter get one from www.intenseperformance.com. They have a 14x3 element with a filtered top similar to the K&N Xstream lids, but much cheaper.
A gear change may also help, especially if you have 3.55s in the rear. Also consider ditching the stock clutch fan and moving to an electric one. You can also consider underdrive pulleys as well.
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kyle
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
00:26:52
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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the engine has been rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago w/ new tranny also.So gibson headers isnt better than mopar/doug thorley headers performance wise?? this might be a stupid question also but i truely dont have a clue what you mean by M1?? Any idea where i can get the R/T cam and rocker combo?? Where did u get your MSD stuff at?? Also is the weatherplate at the end of the stock airbox hose thingie. Man i feel stupid not knowing this stuff! I'm 19 and wanting to get into fixing up vehicles. Asking for your input helps me and i appreciate all who are helping me understand all this.
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
01:33:24
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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Yes, the weatherplate is in front of the hose, right behind the grille. It sort of snaps in place, but there might be one screw also holding it down. It is meant to keep water/bugs from getting up to the air filter. Mine has been removed for quite some time and I never had a problem.
Places for parts -
www.socaldakota.com
www.krcperformance.com
www.mopartsracing.com
www.summitracing.com
www.rockauto.com - good source for regular parts
The M1 is an intake manifold. It moves more air and moves the powerband up. I liked it when I put it on my truck. It also eliminates any further problems with the plenum intake gasket, which is common on the stock intake.
I got my MSD from ebay and summit racing. Wires and coil from Summit and ignition from ebay.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/773477
The Mopar PCM is a good upgrade. I really liked it on mine. On my truck I can run 87 octane if needed. I do not have any pinging unless I really get on it. It is also only 4 screws to swap out, and the OBDI trucks like ours do not have to relearn anything like the newer ones. Thus you could swap back and forth as needed.
I am in the midst of swapping mine out to a 360. If I am successful I will probably sell my old Mopar PCM. I'll let you know.
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kyle
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
02:54:12
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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Would a K&N FIPK give me more HP than just the direct stock filter replacement of K&N?? I was thinking of upgrading the throttle body along with the intake manifold but i dont know which one's are better than others? I also am thinking of getting a different camshaft but again I'm not sure whats good and whats not?? or even worth it?? I was also looking at the venom performance control module?? Thanks again for all your help and cooperation with me!
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
10:04:59
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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The FIPK is nothing more than an open element filter on our trucks. You can do it cheaper by getting a Summit air filter assembly and an open filter. You will need to make an s-bolt to attach it to your TB though, but that is not hard. I just bought a threaded rod from Home Depot, bent it into the shape I needed and cut the excess off.
The link I posted to intense perfromance is a better open element option than the FIPK as it will flow much more air.
I was happy with the K&N I put in mine, but I am also planning on running a 2nd tube to the other side of the aircleaner after I relocate the battery to the back. That way I can get a little more cold air yet still retain a stock look.
Your TB options are Fastman (approx $220), F&B (approx $400), and Hughes (approx $400). Holley does make a 52mm TB, but for a 318 50mm is a better match. You can also port your own. The important thing is to get one that matches your throttle linkage. Dodge changed the linkage over the years, so they do not interchange in that sense. You can get a new throttle cable from the dealer, but that is an additional expense. From a cost standpoint I would either port a junkyard one or get a Fastman.
Selecting a camshaft requires a little more thought as to what you want to get out of the engine. Keep in mind that the 92-93 models were the best 318s. The stock cam was slightly more aggressive and they had larger exhaust manifolds and exhausts. The best bang for the buck on these engines is a set of 1.7 rockers. They work well with the stock cam and give you a good boost in power. Add a PCM and bigger TB and you will have a completely different truck.
I would not bother with the Venom. You can do something similar by relocating the IAT sensor from the intake manifold into the air intake. This will read a cooler air temp, which will result in a small increase in power. Fuel economy will suffer a little though.
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kyle
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
10:40:24
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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regarding the 1.7 rockers, if i were to get them would I also have to get different valve covers to allow for the bigger rockers? is it worth paying 125 dollars more for stainless?? i went to the fastman website for the tb and its 250 with an 80 dollar core what does that mean?? total price being 330?? Performance wise what brand tb do you recommend??
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
11:11:43
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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You can use your stock covers, you just have to modify the baffles. Take a 2x4, put it inside the valve cover and beat down the baffles. That will give you the needed clearance. I would not spend the extra cash for stainless if it were my engine. Harland Sharps are good and cheap, Crower and Mopar are also good.
Fastman works on a core basis. You order the TB, when you get it you ship your old one back to him. He sells modified stock TBs, so that is where the core comes in. If you don't send it back you get charged $80. He has a special buy/price going on in conjunction with dodgetalk.com - I think it is $210 for a TB. Good deal.
I would go with Fastman. The F&B and other billet TBs are pretty, and may flow a smidge more air, but I cannot justify almost $200 more for one. Later on down the road if you really get the urge, then buy one and sell the Fastman on Ebay or on one of the Dodge boards. I am planning on getting a 52mm for my 360 once complete, and will go with Fastman. You can usually find a used billet one about once every couple months, but they are almost always for the newer trucks, thus a throttle cable swap needs to be considered into the price as well.
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kyle
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
12:45:27
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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I just took off the weatherplate thingie and drove around normal and crazy lol i really didnt notice a difference? it made my exhaust sound a lil different but thats about it. Maybe its just my head i dunno. it only took 5 minutes i was surprised i actually did it by myself. I also found out the reason for my hesitation at 45 and 65 is bc of my EGR valve or cellinoid thingie. Its gonna cost about 100 bucks to fix it unless i do it myself which i wouldnt know where to start. Would buying a Haynes book or one of those repair manuals on CD on Ebay be of any count to help me out in doing this project myself?
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
14:28:46
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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I used a Haynes for the last 10 years. It is an invaluable resource. The Dodge Factory Service Manual is also good. I got mine off Ebay for about $20 or so. You can still get them new from Dodge, they are about $50-60 shipped. Stay away from the CDs, they tend to be generic repair info, not specific to your truck. The EGR is pretty easy to do. Check with Autozone, O'reillys, NAPA, etc for an EGR valve. That is what I did when I replaced mine.
Keep in mind that most of these mods have a cumulative effect. Few are going to give you a big jump in power on their own.
A ported or aftermarket TB will give you a rather pleasing intake roar under hard acceleration. It is louder with a K&N as well.
BTW, the Haynes manual has many tips on how to repair various things, the FSM is just black and white. I actually prefer having both, but the Haynes and/or Chiltons manual is perfectly adequate for just about any repair or maintenance task you may need to do.
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kyle schmidt
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
16:32:51
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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If I were to go out and buy the haynes service manual it would tell me how to fix alot of things such as the EGR valve. basically would I be able to fix my EGR Valve by using this book w/o knowing anything about an EGR Valve and how to replace it?? i don't want to buy something thats not going to help me. the factory manual on Ebay i was watching went for almost 50 bucks used. I want you to know that you are the first person to actually talk to me and give me advice on things to do and not to do. Most people won't talk to me because I'm not at their level of knowledge on this stuff. They don't want to listen to a beginner and all of the types of questions that seem stupid to them.
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
17:40:56
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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No problem dude! Glad I can help.
The EGR valve is simply a solenoid canister that is connected to some vacuum lines and wires. It is located on the rear passenger side of the intake manifold. Been a while since I really looked at mine. It has a single electrical connection, one vacuum line I think and a hose connector to the manifold. It is real easy to replace, just kind of tight in the back because it is buried underneath and behind the distributor and below the fuel lines.
Haynes manual should be about $20 at Autozone. The good thing about it is it actually has pictures of the actual work area. The FSM just has diagrams. Sometimes the picture is much more informative. The Chiltons is OK, but it combines both the Ram and Dakota into one book. The Haynes is Dakota specific.
If your EGR valve needs replacing, you may also consider a new PCV valve and crankcase breather filter, if not done already. They are pretty cheap and easy to do. Pull out of the valve cover and slide the new one in. Also consider plugs, wires and a new cap/rotor. If you pull the plugs, here is a tip - use an air compressor blow gun or a can of air like you use for dusting computers. Once you pull the wires give a good squirt into the plug well to blow out all the dirt before you remove the plugs. That way there is less of a chance to get any into the engine. Also, once you pull the plugs, get a pait of vice grips and yank the cylindrical heat sheild out. It really serves no purpose and hinders removing the plugs. It is just pressed in so a couple tugs and twists will pull it out. Also helps prevent dirt/debris buildup in that area as well.
Autolight 3923 plugs are cheap and a good match for this engine.
If you decide to change the thermostat, use a 180 tstat, not the stock 195. When you get the water neck off, grind the tab off the neck. It will make it much easier to pull out next time. The tab gets snagged on the AC bracket and can be a pain to get out sometimes.
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kyle schmidt
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
19:17:59
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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I just recently put new Bosch Platinum Plugs in. Is there anything else performance wise that would give me more HP and/or Torque gains?? Right now Ive made a list of mods:
1.7 Rockers
50mm Throttle Body- Fastman
M1 intake manifold
K&N FIPK- maybe
Headers- Doug Thorley
Mopar PCM- maybe from you if you decide to sell yours(no pressure):-), otherwise somewhere else.
Cam- CompCams 254HR-12, maybe
Thats all I've come up with right now. Does any of the MSD products help in MPG/Torque/HP?? Any more ideas or suggestions to give me more MPG/Torque/HP??
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2005
19:53:06
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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Underdrive pulleys will free up some horses, but at the expense of reduced alternator output. If you drive in a lot of stop and go traffic or idle a lot, then forget about it.
Pull the stock clutch cooling fan and replace with an electric fan. A viper fan works well, or do a Lincoln MarkVIII fan. It will free up some horses since the engine will not have to physically run the fan anymore.
Cams - you have many choices. RT cam with 1.7s is a good combo. Most of the other cams are designed to work best with 1.6 rockers though. You should also consider freshening up your heads if you go with rockers. New valve seals and springs. The Mopar .525 springs are a good choice.
You can also get a set of Mopar RT heads, or the new Edelbrock aluminum heads. Both make good gains, but are expensive. Expect to pay about $1300 for a complete set, plus new head gaskets, intake gaskets, etc.
You can also try porting the stock manifold. The runners inside can be cut back a little, which increases torque.
Do you have emissions testing where you live? If so you will need to keep the catalytic converter. Consider getting a high flow cat. It will help out the exhaust a little.
MSD ignitions don't make a great deal of HP, but are a necessity if you are going the supercharger route or have extensive mods. When I did mine I noticed a slightly quicker throttle response and smoother idle. That alone was worth it for me.
Eventually you will need to address the transmission. A new stall would be a good idea, minimum 2300, 2800 would probably be good. However, since you have a 4x4 you also need to figure out how you are going to be using the truck. If you do a lot of off roading, A high stall is not always a good idea, and you will want to tailor your mods for torque over HP. If it is primarily a street truck, then things change a little.
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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7/01/2005
01:52:56
| RE: HELP!! Wanting to fix up my 318
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Hold on a minute. Didn't you say 4X4? Most of the mods mentioned do their best work above 4,000 rpm, the M1 and th MP Magnum RT cam in particular. Going to 1.7 rockers on top of said RT cam only adds to the top-end issue. Look, all that "more is better" stuff is heady, and everything listed will help power, particularly high rpm HP, but this all works better on 2WD. (You can only fatten up the torque curve so much before you sacrifice it in lieu of greater top-end HP). It's easy to get caught up in this (kid in a candy store), but you're already quite a bit heavier that the 2WD units, and you need to keep this in mind. If you go with all the mentioned mods, plan on a gear change to make best use of them, and that's a gear change X2....some serious green right there. You want to make the most of what's there, and extend the upper rpm power without giving up the low and midrange power (meaning milder mods). These losses aren't as bad in 2WD models, but you will feel it more with the 4X4. If you do all this, it's gonna be a dog at lower speeds without a gear change, or at least a hi-stall torque converter. Hi-rpm screamers just don't do as well as lower rpm grunt engines in setups like yours.
Hi-stall is a necessity (with higher rpm HP engines) on-road or off because, no matter where you run, you have to let the engine run in its power range. If you go for top-end power, you have to loosen up the converter, or go for some numerically higher gears. Ditching the clutch fan will free up a few HP, but, particularly is harder working situations, that few HP is well spent keeping things cool. You're not going for every last HP like a drag racer. Just something to consider, and ironically, it costs a lot less.
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