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Haligan9
Dodge Dakota
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2/22/2005
23:23:29
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 Subject: Throttle Body Suggestions
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I am going to order a new throttle body and a M1 in a few days but I can't decide which throttle body is right for me. It will be on a 98 RC 318. That already has the Mopar performance PCM, Airaid cai, pph headers, msd 6a, and gibson cat back. Also hopefully this fall/winter I will be adding a vortech s-trim. So should I go with 50mm, 52mm, Hughes, F&B etc. What do you think?
Thanks
Hal
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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2/23/2005
09:30:54
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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50mm. 52mm is too much for a 318 unless you are running a s/c. Fastman is the cheapest retail option, although there are some nice copies floating around on ebay from time to time. You can also port your own, or simply pick up a used one from a junkyard and port it. Cost is about $40-50 for the TB. A dremel can do the work, it just takes some time. I did mine and was very pleased with the results. A stock TB is 50mm at the bore, but the torque step necks it down to 46 or so. Removing the airhorns and the step helps out with airflow a great deal.
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Haligan9
Dodge Dakota
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2/23/2005
12:43:18
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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Thanks Sneezer. I Guess my real concern is this. If I buy a 50mm now then put a s/c on this fall I won't get the full benefit of the s/c right? So then should I go ahead and buy the 52 and let performance suffer for a few months?
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N56629
Dodge Dakota
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2/23/2005
13:23:14
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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I've always thought of it as being just the reverse. With forced induction you should be able to force as much air as you can possibly handle through a 50mm TB. With N/A you have no choice but to go larger.
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Haligan9
Dodge Dakota
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2/23/2005
18:15:27
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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I think what I decided to do is port my stocker and wait until I buy the s/c to buy the new throttle body. Thanks to those who gave me input.
Hal
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N56629
Dodge Dakota
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2/23/2005
21:37:46
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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Just don't let it end up like this one. Story has it that someone actually had this on top of an M1. This was so bad I just had to buy it. I doubt that it will even flow as well as stock.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/N56629/HackedTB.jpg
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woodrow
Dodge Dakota
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2/23/2005
22:53:59
|  RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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WOW!!!!!!!!!! That thing is UUUUGLY!!!!
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N56629
Dodge Dakota
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2/23/2005
23:02:48
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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Ya, I don't know if I should attempt to revive it or keep it as a conversation piece.
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wadak
GenIII
2/23/2005
23:06:56
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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If you take the stock Throttle body for the 318 and remove the ridge right above the Throttle plates you will have a 50mm throttle body. If you remove the air horns at the top of the TB and make it flush with the rest of the TB surface and round the circular edges this will improve throttle response considerably. One more thing you can do is thin the throttle shaft for maximum air flow. A stock v8 throttlebody flows approx. 635 cfm. Removing the torque step, cutting off the air horns and thinning the throttle shaft will improve flow approx. 15 percent to 17 percent that will yield an increase in flow to approx. 730 to 750 cfm.
92 and 97 Daks both with many mods.
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Haligan9
Dodge Dakota
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2/24/2005
00:03:35
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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Thanks alot you guys are awsome. I'll let you know if it turns out better than the one in the picture.
Hal
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Haligan9
Dodge Dakota
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2/26/2005
15:45:59
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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The port/polish is done. It wasn't too bad it took a few hours. I think it turned out good. Thanks to all of you for your help and advce
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95DAK318
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2005
19:51:22
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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I'd like to port a TB for my '95. Does anyone have directions with pics so I can see exactly what I am doing? What bit on the dremel? I was thinking a sanding bit but that would probably take too long, but I think a grinding bit would be too easy to take too much off.
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Haligan9
Dodge Dakota
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2/28/2005
01:16:00
| RE: Throttle Body Suggestions
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95Dak318, Here is how I did mine:
I took it completely apart. I used a 32 tooth hacksaw blade to cut off the airhorns. Then I used a 1.5" drum sander in my drill press with a 80 grit drum to take out the torque step. I went slow and used dial calipers to check my progress often. Once the bores were close to 50mm I used a small 120 grit flap wheel in my dremel to polish out the sanding marks. I finished up the bores with a stainless steel polishing brush in my dremel. With constant checking and a little luck I ended up with exactly 50mm bores top to bottom. To clean up the top where I cut off the airhorns I used a die grinder with different grit sanding pads then scotch brite pads working from corse to fine. I also used the sanding pads and scotch brite pads to radius the bores. Then I spent a lot of time making sure it was absolutely clean and there was no metal flakes left behind. When I put it all back together I used locktite on the throttle blade screws just so I could sleep at night;-) I bolted it back on the truck and reset the computer. I can't really tell a huge difference in the power but the throttle response is drasticly better. The PCM may still be learning so I hope to see performance gains soon. Oh ya I reused the airhat bolt I just stacked washers under it to make up for the missing airhorn. I plan on making a s-bolt but I did't have the right size all thread laying around.
Hal
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