1st oil change 4.7l - Dodge Dakota Forum

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mayo Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 09:30:13	Subject: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: As my new 4.7l 4x4 approaches 2000 miles, I will need to change my engine oil for the first time. I would like some input on the different types to choose from (synthetic/convenional) and your preferences. And yes, ambosoil man I know your out there, so no reply is needed on your part. Thanks for all the help guys. mayo
Opie Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 10:00:51	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: I constantly run Mobil One 5w30 in my '01 4.7L. The stats just speak for themselves. Regardless of the conspiricy (sp?) theories out there, Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches, and Ferraris all reccomend Mobil One for the top end engines in the world. The stuff is $20 at Wal Mart and, if you do it yourself, you will break even. As far as a filter is concerned, go for the smallest "micron filtration" possible. Napa, Autozone, K&N, etc. all make amazing filters compaired to the Fram crap that is out there. Do a search on Google for a breakdown of good filters. There have been in-depth studies done. On a side note, I always attach a super-strong magnet to the bottom of my filter. I know I am going to get flack for this, but I have opened up my old filters and I am saying that IT WORKS. The magnet traps extremely small "clasts" of mixed aluminum-steel that the filter doesn't catch. Another little deal that I picked up from the gurus on the internet is a wrap-around the oil filter that works as a heat sink. It has little fins that dissipate the heat of the oil and (along with a 180* t-stat) have helped to lower the operating temp of my truck and extend the life of my oil. Finally, the aftermarket makes a screen that you can put on top of the filter so that you can identify any larger particles that may identify potential problems with your engine. I doubt this is an issue with your new Dak, but it is something to think about down the road. Good luck and always hand-tighten your filters.
Mr.Sleepy Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 11:56:47	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Opie has some good tips, you should try some of those! In addition, be sure to look up in your owners manual about shifting from 5W-30 to 10W-30 during the year. Look for what the specs recommend based on your local climate. If your in a colder region the 10W-30 is what your after. If your going to do the oil change yourself be ready for the easiest change you'll ever do. The plug is dead center just after the wheels, the filter is middle easy to get at. My only advice is to get a oil pan that is large capacity, 8 Quarts or more, and has a cover that drains to a reservoir below, because you may have to drop that filter, and you don't want it diving into 6 quarts below.
Ethan_G Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 14:06:19	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: My neighbors ferrari may say to use mobil1 but it is like a 20w-60 and costs $70 quart. He pays about $800 for an oil change. It ain't the cheap crap you buy on the shelf for your truck. I use amsoil 5w-30 and it costs me less than $5 a qt.
DakHunter Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 14:39:28	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Cold weather = thinner oil. Not thicker. Cold = 5W30 HOT = 10W30
Mr.Sleepy Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 15:03:12	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Your neighbors ferrari has a hand built V-12 engine, built for high revs and high performance. You have a assembly line american 287, you could use 50 cent a quart oil in that pig without a noticeable difference. The duty cycle on your engine is built to outlast your ownership. Most sythentics are for sports cars running premium fuel, and are required to maintain that performance. Synthetics in a pickup is like lace on a wh0re, sure its nice, but it doesnt hide the true beast within. Unless you plan on keeping that truck for 10 years, don't bother with that expensive stuff. If your leasing or planning on selling the truck in 3 years, use the cheap stuff.
Opie Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 16:17:19	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Mr. S.: The way I drive my Dak, and the way I read others treating their truck, the best way to keep our trucks alive is to give 'em the good stuff. I have been changing the oil for my parents' and siblings' various vehicles (Corvette, Lexus, Avalon, GMC Van, Dakota, Ram, Vigor, Accord, and Celicas) for 15 years and Mobil One just doesn't break down like Quaker State or Casteroil (sp?). A Synthetic oil in a truck is like a condom when encountering a whore. You may not need it, but I don't want to risk it. Everyone else: Here is another cheap trick. Some of the Daks have a plastic "scrape" panel on the underside that has a hole cut in it to reach the oil filter. It is difficult to pull the filter off without covering yourself with oil. To make it 100 times neater, here is what to do: 1. Drink a 2 ltr bottle of Dr. Pepper. 2. Cut the bottle in half. 3. Drain your oil into a pan. 4. Go take a pee. The Dr. Pepper has worked its way through. 5. Loosen the filter, possibly needing a tool. 6. when the filter is loose, spin about 2 turns. 7. take half of the bottle (if it's the top half, put the cap on), put it over the oil filter, and unscrew the filter by squeezing the sides of the bottle half and spinning. When the filter comes off the block, all the oil that may have spilled out is now in a nifty little 1/2 bottle along with the filter. 8. Take another pee. 2 Ltrs is a lot of DP! 9. Dispose of filter/oil per EPA guidelines.
DoMo Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 17:12:58	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Does it have to be DP? Can I also use a 2ltr of Coke or Pepsi? Which is better?
Dennis Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 17:14:43	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Opie, All kidding aside, that's great advice. I have a 2000 4.7 with 65K miles. I have religiously changed the oil myself every 3K miles. Everytime, I get my arm, the inside of that scrape panel, and my garagae floor full of oil. I always stuff a garage rag in the scrape panel which catches a lot of it, but it's still a mess. I am definitely going to try to bottle trick. Also, I have been reading posts on this site related to oil for a while now. I used to use Castrol synthetic and a Fram filter. Just this weekend I bought Mobil One and a Mobil One filter for my next change. My local Walmart didn't carry it although the local parts store had it for almost what I was paying for Castrol at Walmart. Where I was a little shocked was the filter. It was more than double what I was paying for the Fram (yes, now I know how bad the Fram filter was).
AmsoilSponsor DakotaEnthusiast 10/04/2004 17:29:27	Amsoil - 1st oil change 4.7L - Amzoil Ams Oil IP: Logged Message: C-mon Guys, You have seen me post it before. Synthetic lubricants are a product of the trend towards increasingly complex industrial and automotive equipment designed to meet ever more severe operating conditions - such as extremes of temperature in the operating cycle, the need for sealed-for-life components or extended overhaul periods. In these cases the equipment has exceeded the performance capabilities of conventional mineral oil based lubricants, and created the need to develop synthetic oils. When we talk about synthetic oils we are describing the base fluid which, as in conventional lubricants, acts as a carrier for conventional additive packages. The following short definitions of the terms often used by those involved in the lubrication business will be helpful as a start to this bulletin. Mineral oils - Lubricants whose base stocks are derived solely from direct distillation and separation of crude oil or "Dino". Synthetic oils - Lubricants whose base stocks are pure chemicals. They are NOT based on the simple refining of crude oil ("Dino"), but are manufactured by the conversion of certain chemicals into synthetic bases with controlled structure and predictable properties. Part or partial synthetics - These are mineral oils blended with synthetic oil. This has the effect of combining the desired features of each into the single oil. The term semi-synthetic is sometimes used to describe these oils. This is misleading as this term is used to describe a quite different fluid as shown below. Semi-synthetics - These oils use the same raw material as mineral oils. However, the oil is further chemically manipulated after distillation. This process removes many unwanted compounds (such as those containing nitrogen, oxygen and sulphur) and converts many of the sludge-forming compounds into less reactive hydrocarbons. Classes of Lubricants All synthetic base fluids are not the same. Therefore, not all synthetic oils are the same. There are many useful classes for the production of lubricants. The principle classes have proved to be esters, phosphorus esters, polyalkylglycols and synthesised hydrocarbons or polyalphaolefins. There are also classes within classes and the characteristics and performances of a synthetic base oil can vary considerably from one chemical structure to another. Selection of the correct base fluid for a particular application is important. Why use synthetic lubricants? Longer oil life --Enhanced thermal and oxidative stability Benefit = Use less oil, less down time, longer filter life, lower disposal costs Reduced oil consumption -- Lower volatility and higher density Benefit = Less top up, less inventory Safer operation -- Higher flash points, fire points Benefit = Lower maintenance costs, lower replacement parts cost Predictable properties -- Uniformity of product characteristics Benefit = Lower product rejection, lower maintenance Compared with conventional mineral oil formulations, no synthetic oil is cheap. The higher cost of the synthetic may be set against a lower oil consumption, lengthened drain periods, increased parts life, longer overhaul life or reduced maintenance costs. __________________________________________________ Request a FREE Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Catalog by clicking below. Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
badassdak20 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 17:30:44	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: i hope you have a huge spill pan,cus when you take out the drain plug the oil is gonna gush.last time i bought the fram quik drain,installed but havent used it yet but it has to be better then a roll of paper towels.just my two cents.4.7L here too!
badassdak20 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 17:34:44	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: hey amsoil man ,how about a free case of earl so i can believe this crap your feeding us.
badassdak20 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 17:38:25	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: hey amsoil man ,how about a free case of earl so i can believe this crap your feeding us.
AmsoilSponsor DakotaEnthusiast 10/04/2004 17:41:26	Amsoil - 1st oil change 4.7L - Amzoil Ams Oil IP: Logged Message: No matter what brand you choose, always choose a Synthetic Oil! Synthetic Lubricants are fuel efficient, extended life lubricants manufactured and formulated from select basestocks and special purpose additives. In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed in the laboratory. The properties of mineral oils (dino) tend to vary due to inconsistencies in the crude from which they are obtained. The properties and performance features of synthetics on the other hand, are very predictable due to their molecular uniformity, ... creating the ideal lubricant. Since their inception, manufacturers of Synthetic Motor Oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. Though it sounds too good to be true, synthetics do reduce engine wear, improve gas mileage and increase horsepower. This is because synthetic oil molecules are superior in a number of ways to mineral-based oils. - higher resistance to heat (up to 600 deg. F) - Added lubricity (uniform diameter of synthetic oil polymers allows them to more easily slide over one another. The resultant reduction in friction shows up as more horsepower and torque and reduced internal engine wear) - Higher film strength (one of the major benefits of synthetics, since film strength is what keeps oil molecules from being pushed away from each other under pressure) - better "pour points", "flash points", "fire points" - "high temperature and high sheer viscosity - and so on and so forth ..... __________________________________________________ SYNTHETIC VS. CONVENTIONAL PETROLEUM Conventional lubricants are refined from crude oil which has thousands of types of molecules. Refining is a process of physically separating the impurities from the oil and further separating the light and heavy components. Because refining separates products by weight, it groups molecules of similar weight and dissimilar structure. The result is a lubricant with a wide assortment of molecules. Some of the substances in crude oil are detrimental to lubrication. Paraffins, for example, are a common conventional oil contaminant that causes motor oil to thicken in cold temperatures. Synthetic motor oils are made from pure chemicals, not refined crude. Their components are chemically reacted to produce finished products with pre-designed performance characteristics. Because of their molecular uniformity, they excel in reducing friction, which improves fuel efficiency, controls heat and reduces wear. This molecular uniformity also helps synthetics resist thinning in hot temperatures and thickening in cold. __________________________________________________ THE ROLE OF MOTOR OIL Before we can discuss what makes a good motor oil, it helps to understand what role motor oil actually plays in the performance of an engine. While motor oils serve a variety of functions, they are primarily necessary to lubricate and to cool the engine. When the engine is at rest, the motor oil sits in the bottom of the engine block in what is called the oil pan. Upon start-up, an oil pump feeds oil from the pan to the oil distribution system by means of a network of passages, tubes, grooves and holes leading to the engine bearings and other surfaces needing pressurized oil for lubrication. Other parts, like the overhead valve system, receive a carefully controlled quantity of non-pressurized oil through splashing or spray. In addition to lubricating and cooling engine parts, motor oil must allow easy starting, protect the engine from corrosion and oxidation, keep the engine clean, form a tight seal between piston rings and cylinder walls and help the engine use fuel efficiently. In days gone by motor oil was made from the throwaway byproducts of a barrel of crude oil after everything useful was taken from it. In those early days the filter, if you had one at all, was a by-pass type, filtering only a small percentage of the oil. In some instance the filter was little more than a screen and the oil was changed every five hundred or thousand miles. As cars and their engines became more sophisticated, so too the requirements of a lubricant became increasingly demanding. The answer for today's engines is ... Synthetic Lubrication. __________________________________________________ No matter what brand you choose, always choose Synthetic Oil and Lubricants! Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
Mr.Sleepy Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 20:49:12	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Yeah how about that free case??? If I drop $40 for an do it yourself oil change, and do see these claims then I'm going to have to hunt you down and horse whip you for your lunch money. Opie, that damn skid plate is a tricky one, I opted for a 4x2 so I don't have that, just a big empty opening where it should be. =)
AmsoilSponsor DakotaEnthusiast 10/04/2004 21:25:39	Amsoil= www.american-synthetic-oil.com = Amzoil IP: Logged Message: No matter what brand you choose, ... ... choose Synthetic Oil and Lubricants! Your engine, transmission, and gears will thank you! Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
R/T Rick Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/04/2004 23:06:17	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: the Amsoil man is right about the oil though, use the synthetic, and yes mobile one is king. it even gets u up to a gallion more in gas milage and a few more ponies (important when you have the r/t that 360 is thristy) and supposely doesn't have to be changed as often (5000 miles oppose to 3000) but I still do ever 3000.
AmsoilSponsor DakotaEnthusiast 10/05/2004 06:46:34	Amsoil Winter Weight Oil - Viscosity - Amzoil IP: Logged Message: Winter Weight Oil Someone mentioned Cold Crank Protection Since is upon us, ... I will repeat the following which I have posted before ... the first number, preceding the ‘w’ (for Winter), is an oil’s viscosity grade, is an indication of low-temperature performance -- the lower the better. The lower winter viscosity grades will be more valuable in colder climates. 10w- generally flows and pumps fine at four degrees below zero on the Fahrenheit scale, and each grade below that buys you another nine degrees. Synthetic oil is vastly superior to conventional oil in its low-temperature pumpability, high-temperature stability, long-drain capability, and high lubricity (low friction). The second number represents the oil’s high-temperature viscosity, but higher is not always better! One wants to choose the minimum viscosity that results in an oil film thick enough to prevent wear at the temperatures one expects to encounter. Only the engineers that designed the engine know what viscosity is required to provide adequate film thickness without unnecessary friction, so you should certainly try to remain within manufacturers guidelines. For what it’s worth, I trust the engineers. (Note: It is almost certain that higher viscosity oils, such as Xw-40 and Xw-50, are complete wastes of energy, placing undue strain on your engine, and raising operating temperatures for no real benefit.) __________________________________________________ Technical Stuff VISCOSITY..in the general term is defined as " a fluids resistance to flow". it's a measure of the internal friction of the fluid or the resistance to the movement of one layer of molecules relative to an adjacent layer. THE LOWER (SMALLER or FIRST #, as in "10w-_) NUMBER.. is the Cold Cranking measurement, made at low temperatures, using a concentric cylinder viscometer to predict the oils cranking resistance in an engine during cold starting. The measuring devices, or viscosmeters, most often used are in the form of close-fitting concentric cylinders. The fluid being evaluated is placed between the cylinder walls, the outer cylinder is held stationary and the inner cylinder is rotated. The speed of rotation is measured for a given force to calculate the viscosity, most commonly reported in cp or centipoise units. Also known as Absolute Viscosity. THE HIGHER (BIGGER or SECOND #, as in "-30") NUMBER...is commonly measured in capilary tubes, in which the time for a fixed volume of fluid to flow through the tube under gravity at operating temp (100c)is measured and reported as cSt or centistokes. This is used most commonly to report the normal operating viscosity of motor oils or the higher number. __________________________________________________ Viscosity " __W- " is a Viscosity GRADE, not a viscosity MEASUREMENT. When testing for cold fluidity, the temperature is lowered approximately 5 degrees centigrade between each test. The Cold Crank Simulator Apparent Viscosity is tested at: -20 C for 10W- -25 C fpr 5W- -30 C for 0W- It is my understanding that the oil has to be labelled at the lowest temperature it meets the specifications. It may not be long before someone comes out with a " -5W-30 " which would correspond with -35 C. __________________________________________________ They potential for Cold Crank Damage in the winter is one of the worst situations for your engine. Protect your engine, transmission, and gears by using the correct viscosity SYNTHETIC lubricants. __________________________________________________ You can REQUEST a FREE Amsoil Catalog by clicking below. Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
Allan Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/05/2004 08:43:39	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: I have been using Amsoil for the last 40k in my 2002 QC 4.7. I change the filter every 9k and the oil every 18k. I have an oil analysis done when I change the filter and oil and the report comes back with no problems. I pay about $90 for the oil and two filters and two oil analysis test kits. So for the $90 that I pay for 18k if you change your dino at every 3k then you will end up spending around $120. Plus I get the benefit of the synthenic oil, having an oil analysis done and not having to visit EZLube. I recommend Amsoil and I also use the Amsoil oil filter and their air filter.
Opie Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/05/2004 09:57:49	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Well mayo, look what you did. (begin rant) You went and incurred the wrath of the Amsoil guy. This was an informitive discussion on the tips and tricks of oil changing and it has become ANOTHER synthetic vs. dino issue. Lets sum it up: For the same reason we are not driving a horse-and-bugy to work every day, you should put synthetic in your engine. Times have changed and the technology is there. Lets move on. (end rant) The Quick Drain: I am skeptical of this little do-dad. On one hand, there is the ease of turning on the spigot and draining your oil. On the other hand, there is the ease of someone (or something) else turning on the spigot and draining your oil. Additionally, it is another part on my truck that would have the risk of getting knocked off, lost, or broken. This may seem contrary to my previous statement about technology, but here I will follow the theory of "Occam's Razor," which states a plurality of reasons should not be posited without necessity. In other words, the simplest answer is often the best answer. In short, use the screw. If there weren't any problems with the quick drain, they would come stock on some vehicles. Right now Mobil One is in over 15 production vehicles from the factory. No production vehicles come with a quick drain.
mayo Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 10/05/2004 10:24:10	RE: 1st oil change 4.7l IP: Logged Message: Yeh baby yeh...opps I did it again! I'm with the other guys on this one...it's time to put up or shut up! Give me one free oil change of this miracle of modern science (it is some kind of oil ain't it?) and if I see the results posted again, and again, ect... I'll buy the stuff for LIFE! You have my word on it. Otherwise the mobile man I'll be seein, and your page and a half post, I won't be a readin. There's my rant, use my brand new dakota for a guinea pig...I DOUBLE DOG DARE YA! mayo.
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