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crazy8888
Dodge Dakota
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7/07/2004
02:55:29
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 Subject: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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I am going to do my front brakes on my dakota this weekend, how difficult will it be to replace the pads? Any tips for me any help would be appreciated. All I have is this darn chilton manual and as you all know how helpfull they can be. Whos pads should I use mopars are 115 bucks are there any else that are good I do a lot of city driving, and what tips are there for keeping them from making noise. And do I need to bleed them and hows the best way to do that? Thanks
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MOPARornoCAR
Dodge Dakota
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7/07/2004
23:02:41
|  RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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i just did mine on my 2001 5.9 ....just removed tires ,,,,unbolted calipers,,,,re-compressed piston,while old pad was on,,,removed pads,,installed new pads(raybestos),,,re-bolted everything ,double checked everything,,started truck....pumped gas pedal while in park,to adjust piston pressure.
hope this helps
B>
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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7/07/2004
23:24:23
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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Follow the above directions and everything will work fine. But here's a couple of additional steps that I like to do.
Use a dial indicator to check for run out. Not uncommon when the pads are completly worn out.
Run a 180 grit disc sander across the rotors. It helps to clean them off so the new pads will seat in well.
Clean the mounting surfaces on the back of the pad and the caliper. Add a little Disc Brake Quiet from Permatex - a blue glue. After assembly gently apply the brakes to seat the pads. Let is sit over night before driving. That usually prevents brake squeal.
As for pad choice, for normal driving I'm a big fan of carbon fiber, specifically Performance Friction brand.
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crazy8888
Dodge Dakota
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7/08/2004
00:14:52
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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So if I dont have any huge grooves in the rotors I wont need to surface them? Can I just take them to autozone to have the run out checked? Thanks!!
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MOPARornoCAR
Dodge Dakota
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7/08/2004
08:58:20
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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i am not too familiar with run out on my 2001 5.9...but i can tell you that i have had them rotors turned once @50000 miles......and they need it again,,,but i am just going too get new upgraded rotors when the next time draws nearer.
yes the blue stuff from permatex is a good idea...thanks bob!
as bob will say also...its so much better to do these at home instead of paying someone....i like too save that type of money for more complicated computer problems....hehehehe
B>
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Neil
Dodge Dakota
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7/08/2004
09:37:28
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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In addition to the below; The lugs have star washers on them to hold the rotor on for assembly. Cut them off to get the rotor off. No need to replace them. Be careful restarting the caliper bolts. It's easy to cross thread them with the rubber sleeves. (Trust me,I know). The caliper bolts are T-45 hex or 7mm.
Front Brakes for dummies 101
Steve L.
slooke@lucent.com
I took the time to write this for a post below, so I've posted it here as well for anybody else that might be interested in doing their own brakes for the first time.
Disc brakes in most cases are the easiest of brakes to replace. Much easier than Drum brakes because you don't have the different springs and such. Its more likely for an inexperienced person to get into trouble doing drum brakes than Disc. That's not meant to scare anybody from attempting to do Drums. Drums are not too tough either, just more involved than disc.
I am more than happy to answer any questions. Feel free to email me during the week. I am not usually on during the weekends.
Front Brake Job for dummies 101
Equipment:
New pads
C-clamp (or equivalent)
Correct wrench for caliper removal (I don't know if it's an Allen, torx, or standard bolt, I haven't been under my truck yet)
Jack and jack stands (or equivalent)
Lug nut wrench
Caliper slide grease
Anti-squeal for the pads
Brake fluid if bleeding
Bleeder screw wrench
Procedure:
1) Loosen all Lug nuts from front wheels
2) Jack up front end so that both wheels are off the ground.
3) Remove both front tires
4) Turn ignition key one click to unlock steering wheel.
5) Loosen Master cylinder cap, but leave covered to allow pressure to escape when squeezing the Calipers. But keep foreign matter out.
6) If the new pads came with Anti-squeal stop apply to the metal backing of all four pads. Do not apply to the pads friction material that contacts the rotors!
7) Work on one side at a time. Pick a side and turn the wheel in the right direction to make easy access to the back of the caliper. Remove the caliper by its mounting slide bolts.
8) Be careful not to strain the brake hose once the caliper is off.
9) Remove both pads and use one pad as a backing to squeeze the piston all the way into the caliper using a C-clamp or large water pump pliers (slip joint pliers).
10) Inspect rotors. Look for mirror like finish, deep grooves, rust build up on the inner and outer pad surface edges of the rotor. (all of these problems can be fixed by bringing the rotors to a local garage and have them turned for around $10-$15 each.) Exceptional amounts of rust in the pad surface of the rotor or badly out of round (pulsation when braking) could require rotor replacement. Under normal circumstances and doing the brakes before they grind usually reduces the need to have the rotors cut. Keep in mind for the best results you should have them cut anyway. This will give a nice dull finish and take out the imperfections to help braking distance, reduce squeaks, and pad live.
11) Remove the slide bolts from the caliper and clean. It is best to use a lube especially for caliper bolts, in a pinch use a heavy grease, or anti-seize. White lithium is not a good choice.
12) Match up the new inner and outer pads with the old and reinstall on the caliper. Install the rotor and caliper. Again be careful not to stain the brake hose.
13) Turn the wheel the other way and repeat the steps 7-12.
14) Now that the brakes are back together re-cap the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal with slow full strokes until the pedal get hard.
15) Test drive; be very careful to be sure the brake pedal has been pumped up before running up the truck. Other wise it will take those 5 or so pumps before your brakes start to work. By that time you've crashed! Do not do any panic stops to test out the brakes for the first 100 miles. This will give the pads time to break in to the rotors. You don't want to crack your new pads.
Optional work:
It's not a bad idea to bleed the brakes. This requires two people in most instances. If you're going to bleed the whole system, start at the right rear-left rear-right front-finishing up at the left front. If you only want to bleed the fronts, than start at the right front. The idea is to start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder.
1) Person in vehicle pumps up the brakes until firm and holds down. He should tell the person at the axle when he is ready.
2) Person under the vehicle cracks open bleeder just enough to allow fluid the flow out. Try not to get squirted in the eye, Brake fluid burns eyeballs.
3) The guy in the car will feel the pedal drop to the floor.
4) Bleeder should be closed just before fluid stops flowing. That way no air will be into the system. Never pump the brake pedal with the bleeder open.
5) Once the bleeder is closed, tell the person in the car to pump them up again, he should let you know when the pedal is firm and he is holding down and ready to do it again.
6) Repeat 2-5 a few times remembering to check the master fluid level. Do not let it run dry or you'll be in for more work bleeding the entire system.
7) Once you start getting clean fluid out, your ready to go to the next wheel.
Bleeding can be messy. Be prepared to spill fluid on the ground, or garage floor/driveway. It's not a bad idea to have an oil drain bucked and large piece of cardboard to keep your driveway or garage floor clean.
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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7/08/2004
09:49:22
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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All used discs will have a certain amount of grooves in them. That's just normal wear. Unless the grooves are big, I don't attempt to resurface them. Any good machine shop/repair shop should be able to check run out for you. I've got 56,000 miles on mine, and there are some small grooves, and run out is well below factory specs.
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kosta
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
15:15:22
|  RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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Dont buy powerstop drilled rototrs! I put them on my 99 rt and have hairline cracks in them. I drive hard but not that hard>
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mcarthey
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
19:50:17
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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I saw Powerstop at Summit Racing. Are these different than Powerslot?
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DSW
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
21:26:32
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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Powerstops have a series of holes drilled through the rotor, maybe 30-40 holes drilled through the face and exiting the back. The holes are supposed to help in cooling and allow hot gases from the pad to escape.
Powerslots have 4-8 grooves ground in the face and back of the rotor about 1/8" deep which help to keep the pad clean,,, and allow hot gases to escape I imagine.
There are also rotors that are drilled and slotted. I have a set of Raybestos Brutestop drilled and slotted rotors, they have been doing much better than the other 2-3 sets of rotors that I have had on the truck. No warping and I have not noticed reduced braking while towing.
The drilled and/or slotted rotors are going to cost you, $100+ locally or about $80 online. I bought mine from rockauto.com, it was right at $200 for 2 rotors and set of pads.
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skid row
Dodge Dakota
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11/19/2010
13:00:14
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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powerstop and powerslot are not the same companies.
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Peppy
Dodge Dakota
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11/19/2010
18:27:55
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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Take her in to Pep Boys, they have great mechanics!
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Kevin G.
Dodge Dakota
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1/11/2011
14:35:59
| RE: NEED HELP FRONT BRAKES
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I have a 2001 Dakota 5.9 R/T and i need to know if the front port on the master cyl is the front brakes and the rear port is the rear brakes
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Bobs
Dodge Dakota
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7/22/2011
00:44:05
| jkDplFTwMkmX
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Finally! This is just what I was looknig for.
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