Todd W
Dodge Dakota
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3/05/2002
18:58:26
|  RE: Check List When buying
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First and formost... check to see if it's leaking anything. Just looking at the ground under it won't do, some people will clean underneath it periodically. So climb under (should be good clearance in a 4x4) and check the oil pan around the gasket, the tranny, rear end, and transfer cases for signs of leakage. Leakages = bad.
Second, look under the hood for leaks. Check around the intake, valve covers, heads, water pump, and the like. Chances are it's not going to be spotless, but there shouldn't be fresh fluids. (PS, best to check after a test drive!)
TEST DRIVE! (Duh)
When starting the engine after it's been sitting a bit, watch the exhaust. A puff of blue that goes away indicates worn valve seats/seals, constant blue when you rev usually indicates rings or -real bad- valve guids/seals/seats.
With the engine idling pop the hood and listen. Tell whomever is around to be quiet if you have to. Listen for metal on metal noises. Chances are your going to hear some lifter noise, but a lot of it means problems. You can also rev the engine down there with your hand, grab the throttle linkage and give it a quick pull, listen for wierd noises.
With the engine off and key removed, check the condition of the plug wires. Cracked and worn isn't good, it doesn't -mean- anything besides you having to replace them, but may hint that the owner didn't take great care of it. Check the belts too, best done by grabbing the belt and running your hand along it. If you feel cracks or chunks missing, it needs replaced.
Check the brakes, the front are the easiest to do. If you can see the disc with the wheel on, great, if not, see if they can take it off for you. Look for escessive grooves in the disc, and irregular wear.
With the engine running and in park, turn the wheel from dead center side to side. Is there a lot of play before it starts to actually turn? Does it feel loose? If so, something in the stearing mechanism isn't right.
On to the test drive...
Vary your speed. Do starts and stops, WOT accellerations to speed. Don't actually speed, just go the limit, but get there as fast as you can. Watch the exhaust if you can when you do this. Black smoke means lots of carbon or the engine is running rich. White smoke means it's lean or there may be coolant in the combustion chamber (bad head gasket, cracked head, bad block, ect). Backfiring isn't nessarily bad, but in this case, would make me wary.
Take the truck to your mechanic! Have him/her check it over and tell you if -they- would buy it personally. If the mechanic wouldn't purchase it, neither should you!
Penny test the tires! :0)
Suspension... with the truck stopped and in park, put all your weight on the front then let go as soon as it stops going down and starts coming up. Does it bounce up and down a lot, or go quickly to center-neutral? Lots of bouncing means bad shocks. Also listen for odd pops doing this. Repeat with the back.
Inspect the exhaust!
From the back, look down the length of the truck on either side. Is it straight? Straight is good, bent is bad. Check wear patterns on the tires, it should be even. Uneven wear indicates either alignment problems or possible other problems, like bent frames or worn tierods.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Is there anything else, guys?
2000 Dakota Reg Cab
3.9L V6, 5-speed
Intake and home-ported TB
"Get the F*** out of my way, you POS Geo Metro!"
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Subject: Check List When buying