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I Know
Dodge Dakota
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11/24/2003
12:54:03
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 Subject: RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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Ken, it's been a while, but I believe the truck ran fine after it got started. Upon starting though, it would cough and hiccup for a short while, maybe 5-10 secs.
Check your bleed valve, the bicycle tire looking valve on your fuel rail.
If there's no pressure, the gas it leaking out somewhere.
Hope this helps.
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Todd
Dodge Dakota
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11/24/2003
19:12:27
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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Sounds like the trouble I had. Below is the post I placed here describing my problem and my method of fixing it.
Message:
I had a similar problem. Turns out the check valve at the pump was not working (this item fails often it seems) and pressure was bleeding back to the tank. The dealer finaly replaced the pump (check valve is part of the assembly) and I have not had the problem again.
The dealer first response was "this is common on our trucks and is normal" I refused to accept that and searched this site for similar problems and printed the reports I found and took them to the dealer (thanks fellow DAK owners). They could not deny the problem after that.
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mase
Dodge Dakota
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11/27/2003
03:08:40
|  RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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I have had long cranking times after my battery has gone dead. Then when I go to start the truck after charging up the battery. The truck will not idle or start with out pressing down the gas pedal a bit. If you go to the bleed valve with the truck running it seems as though there is no 50psi. So what I do to get the truck running is I turn the key on and off about three times and then start the truck and then go and bleed off a bunch of gas threw the bleed valve on the injectors. Do this sequence a few times and its off to the races again. BUY WHY DOES THE TRUCK DO THIS WHEN ONLY I LEAVE MY LIGHTS ON AND MY BATTERY GOES DEAD????
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Dakaty
GenIII
1/06/2004
23:30:40
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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Message:
I have been having the same problem (long cranking times).
I bought a cheap ($35) fuel presuure test guage at Auto Zone.
When my engine is running (at idle) I have about 45 psi (at the Schroeder valve, on the fuel rail). When I shut the engine off, the fuel pressure immediately drops to zero.
When I try to restart it, the pressure does not immediately rebuild to a sufficient level to start. When I turn the key to the "on" position, the pressure slowly starts to build. Generally, the presuure will build to 10 to 20 psi, then there is a feint clicking sound at or near the fuse box under the hood. The fuel pressure drops at the exact moment that this clicking sound is made. This clicking sound must be a switch that disengages the fuel pump activity.
After several attemts at starting, the pressure builds to 30 - 40 psi and the engine starts. The pressure immediatly rises to about 45 psi and remains steady.
I haven't had time to extensively experiment and investigate this. Does anyone have a clue as to what the "clicking sound" might be?
I'll post more on this after I have had an opportunity to mess around with it.
Bill
14.63 @ 91.8
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Dakaty
GenIII
1/10/2004
23:45:44
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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I changed my fuel pump and solved the "long cranking" problem.
It's terrible that we have to buy a whole new fuel pump assembly for over $300 when the problem is a $1.00 seal in the check valve!!!!
Someone should design a check valve that installs in the fuel line right before the fuel rail.
14.63 @ 91.8
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Dakaty
GenIII
1/10/2004
23:49:28
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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By the way, things could be worse. My neighbor's son's fuel pump went out in his Jeep Grand Cherokee. The Dealer sells that pump for $680. Outrageous. It looks almost identical to the one for the Dakota.
14.63 @ 91.8
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Maine Dak
Dodge Dakota
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3/02/2004
09:04:59
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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I have experienced the same issue with my 97. After some thought I came up with a solution. I made a test rig that installs between the fuel line and the Rail. It has a valve on each side of a test port so I can open and close either side. This way I was able to find that the pressure drop was on the pump side and not a leaking injector. I would pressurize the system by cycling the key on/off a few times. (For safety, the pump will only run for a few seconds without a crank signal to prevent fuel spills if a line breaks. In other words. if the engine isn't turning the pump shuts off after a few seconds.) Then I shut of the valve between the gauge and the injectors. Viola! The pressure quickly dropped off on the tank side! I opened the valve, pressurized the system and closed the valve between the gauge and the tank side. The pressure held at about 45PSI. The injectors are tight! I guess I need a new pump....:( AT least I can buy one and feel confident that thats the problem.
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Rob C
Dodge Dakota
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3/02/2004
19:05:11
|  RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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Maine Dak, Here's a link where I found the Mopar parts prices to be a lot less than the local dealer.
http://www.moparpartsdistributor.com/
The prices on a '97 Dakota fuel pump are between $82 & $92 below list depending on which pump you have.
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Sephiroth
Dodge Dakota
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3/02/2004
19:16:20
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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That's odd. That click under the hood is the fuel-pump shutting off AFTER building pressure. I turn my ignition ON, then wait for the click, then just barely tap the start position and it fires up. I have a '95 CC 4x4 5.2L. The '92 CC 4x4 3.9L acts the same way. After that click, you should have pressure in the line, and should only have to move the key to the start position for about a half second to have it fire up. I'd check my plugs, wires, and distributor if it didn't.
In fact, when I bought the '95 used, it wouldn't crank easily. The guy who sold it to me had cheap Champions in it that looked like the original ones. This is at 54k miles. I put in Bosch Platinum 4's and got new wires. Now it starts without hesitation, even during winter when it's sleeting and is below freezing.
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Maine Dak
Dodge Dakota
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3/02/2004
19:18:27
|  RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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Thanks rob. I'll check it out. I called the local dealer and was told that only dealers can sell me Mopar parts (at a SET price) but I figured I'd look online first.
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Maine Dak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/02/2004
19:27:44
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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The "click" is the pump relay opening. The relay is opened if the ignition is in the run position for more than a few seconds with no "crank shaft rotation signal". Its a safety feature to prevent the pump from running when the engine isn't. Situations like running out of gas or a broken fuel line could cause anything from a burnt out pump to a major fire without this feature. There is no "fuel pressure switch" (that I know of)in the system to shut off the pump.
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Kenny Warren
Dodge Dakota
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3/16/2017
11:41:59
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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I have a friend that own a 2001 Dakota sport 4.7 and on cold start it cranks right up. After warm up and short period of use, turn truck of and it has a long crank/start before startup. Checked fuel pressure at fuel rail it drops to 30psi after use of truck. Checked fuel press while cold its at 48.5psi. Tested it with fuel line detached from fuel rail and it did the same thing as far as pressure reading. Checked fuel line and replaced it truck starts up fine and run great.
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Derrell McDou
Dodge Dakota
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12/14/2020
18:43:48
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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Grandson has an 03 dakota with a 4.7
it will take exactly 5 seconds to star, cold,
hot, any time. changed fuel pump, same deal. any
suggestions?
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Roger
Dodge Dakota
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12/14/2020
20:01:26
| RE: LONG CRANK TIMES /SLOW TOO FIRE
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Message:
Check the fuel pressure at the rail. Should be around 50psi.
You should get that pressure just by turning on the key without
actually cranking. The pump should run for about 2 secs even
before it starts. It should hold that pressure for a while too. If
there is no pressure in the rail when you initiate a start then
there will be no priming/enrichment charge and the engine will
need to be cranked long enough to get fuel pressure to build
and get into the cylinders.
If it doesn’t hold pressure or build pressure then its a supply
issue. Try cycling the switch a few times before cranking. That
will tell you if the pre start run mode of the pump is functioning.
If it wont build pressure maybe the pump is only running when
there is a crank signal. If it makes pressure but wont hold it. Its
the check valve in the tank. Maybe?
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