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ZC
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/24/2004
06:51:51
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 Subject: RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
yep Michael got HO cams and intake,K&N FIPK,both insulated, Fastman TB,Kenne Bell shorty headers, Jet Hot coated and their ECM flash,Magnaflow 3" cat back, Hotchkis TVS with Bilstien shocks, chrome R/T wheels with Dunlop 255/55R17 rubber, Moog ball joints and Energy Suspensions poly bushings all the way around.
how do you like the SSB rear disc set up? hope to do that with a Power trax posi unit install at the end of April.
ZC
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ZC
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/24/2004
06:59:39
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
oh Michael this is on a 2002 Dakota SLT Reg. cab 4.7 automatic.
ZC
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CThomp
*GenIII*
3/24/2004
08:45:50
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
So what good balljoints would discount auto carry? If I need to get these I'd rather be able to get them in a hurry and not have to order them.
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CThomp
*GenIII*
3/24/2004
08:50:08
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
Nevermind...I just answered my own question. They carry TRW. Are these any good?
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ZC
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/24/2004
19:23:41
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
howdy CThomp,
anything is better than the stock p.o.s.. i prefer Moog but TRW is good also.
ZC
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Michael
DakotaEnthusiast
3/26/2004
13:43:29
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
ZC, I love the SSB setup. Haven't had a set of rotors warp since. I also have the HO cams & intake, except I have a Z-tube, R/T wheels with Khumos (255/55/17). Other than that I have a couple things done to the exterior and interior.
I should be a saleman for SSB as much as I talk about them.
Later,
Michael
Z-Tube, R/T Rims, SSB Rear Disc Conversion, Alpine Head-Unit, Infinity Kappa Speakers, SilverStar Headlights, HO Cams & Intake installed.
Got H.O. ?
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warwick
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/26/2004
20:09:51
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
I guess there are different kinds of warranties, after reading several messages in here saying they would not cover ball joints. Here is the story on my truck.
I have a 1998 Dakota 4x4 V-8 got the 7yr/100,000 max care warranty $50 dollar deductible at the time of purchase (1998). I think it has paid for itself 10 times over. Never buy a vehicle or a dodge without one.
I’ve had intake, head gaskets. Intake manifold was replaced finally last month after replacing the gaskets twice. Water pump, oil pump, oil pressure sending unit and gage. evaporator core.
Most recently this week at 60,900 both upper control arms, replaced lower steering column shaft adjusted steering box to spec and aligned front end…cost me $50.00. I asked about the alignment charge, they said it was required because of the repairs done so it’s included.
I sometimes am unhappy with the problem on this truck. But Dodge has always been good about repairs and even looks and finds other problems and fixes them.
The warranty runs out in Nov this year....don't know what I will do then. Hope everything is replaced by then.
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ZC
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/26/2004
21:32:29
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
what kind of engine you have warwick????
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warwick
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/26/2004
21:36:26
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
ZC, I have the 5.2 318
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Sephiroth
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/26/2004
21:48:57
|  RE: Ball Joints
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Message:
My dad has an identical truck. Onloy probloem he had was the ball-joints. And that was once! Never had any other kind of problems out of it. Did you floor it a lot or something? Never heard of the manifold and gaskets just 'going bad' like that. Heck, my dad's truck has more miles than yours, and my '95 with the SAME engine has more than both of you! I'd really like to know how the heck the manifold went bad.
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warwick
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/26/2004
22:39:37
| RE: Ball Joints
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Message:
I think the manifold was warped from the start. First time the gasket went was at 12,000 then 20,000, they said they put in a "special" gasket after that. After it blew the last time is when they replaced the manifold itself.
I drive it easy hoping for better gas mileage, and have never towed anything. Just highway and city miles.
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brad
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/30/2004
14:02:27
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
boy,ol boy,
these darn ball joints are something!!! just went to the dearler to verify that my upper and lowers are very bad, they said my truck was unsafe to drive!!! Imagine That, and theres no recall yet!! they said $700, and we can fix it. so being like everyone else, pissed off at dodge, i called the 1-800 number in the owners manual, complained, because we have a 2000 dakota and a 2001 durango, yes i'm a sucker, and both vechicles have bad joints, and they MAY cover the labor costs, thats a MAYBE, so i set up appointment for this wednesday, to get a thourough estimate and what brand of joints there doing, if theres any issues, i'm doing it myself. go dodge :)
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stumper
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/30/2004
17:43:32
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
Just dropped off my 99 dakota at the dealership, they tell me it needs $4800 in repairs, $4300 covered by extended warranty. At 71000 miles it needs 4th set of upper and lower ball joints, new transmission,intake manifold, catalytic converter, power steering, and almost every sensoron the motor. Not a bad deal! Thank God for warranties.
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brad
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/03/2004
14:18:18
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
i plan on doing the ball joint project myself, the MOOG balljoints-upper and lowers were alittle over $40 dollars each!!! so i can't pass this up the uppers look pretty easy, but how about the lowers?? there alittle intimitading....i plan on renting a ball joint press fom autozone, but dous anyone out there have any good advice and steps for the lowers?? do i need to dismantle everything, brakes, rotor, etc, to have clearance to press out the lower? any advice is appreciated, thanks!
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Veno
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/02/2004
22:35:39
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
I have a 97 4X4 regular cab base modle 3.9 V6 it has 101300 miles and no problem with the ball joints and I pound the piss out of it
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OJ
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/03/2004
16:37:52
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
Brad,
I just replaced mine this past weekend (97 2WD. Upper wasn't bad to replace. The trick is to remove the bracket that holds your brake line so it's not in the way and then grind the heads off the rivets. Once they are ground down sufficiently, hit it with an air hammer (if you have one) and the heads should pop right off. Then tap the rivets out from the top. You should remove your calipers and rotors because you will be glad you had the room to work. A press isn't necessary (unless you're talking about a 4x4). The lower one was a bit of a pain. After grinding the heads down and popping them off with the air hammer, they wouldn't budge. It took some "persuasion" with a 5lb sledge hammer whacking it from front to back to make the rivets pop out. The new ones just bolt back in place. One bolt on the lower had to have the nut put on the top side because the sway bar bolt was in the way, unless you want to remove it to put the bolt in the correct way.
Hope this helps,
OJ
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wow
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/07/2004
00:19:42
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
THE STOCK BALL JOINTS ARE MANUFACTURED FOR CHRYSLER BY TRW!!!
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Kevin
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/08/2004
23:53:22
| RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
If you have a Big-O store in your town, go to them to have the ball joints installed. They should only charge you $90 per side...that's uppers and lowers. If you take it to a shop, you get a guarantee...if not...well, you take your chances.
I had mine done 2 months ago and the front end feels nice and tight now. But with all the complaints about this truck, I still might trade it in on something a little more sturdy.
--Kev
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u51295
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/18/2004
13:31:57
|  RE: Ball Joints
IP: Logged
Message:
I have a 2002 Dakota 4.7 4x4. I just replaced the upper ball joints. I used a 4 inch grinder to cut the rivet heads off - it took about 5 minutes total to grind the heads off and 3 hours for the whole job. I now want to replace the bottom ball joints. They are pressed in. What kind of tool is required to get them out and back in without taking off the control arm? The steering knukle appears to be in the way. What is the procedure to replace these? Thanks
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