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Waltherone
Dodge Dakota
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11/06/2002
20:30:19
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 Subject: Installing lockers
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Message:
I'm in the market for something fun for my truck, and from my track experience I think losing my open diff. would make a world of difference. The powertrax loc-rite lockers are supposedly VERy easy to isntall, which means I hopefully wouldn't have to add in installation costs, as my mechanical skills are a bit sub par.
To install something like that though, will I need any special tools I need to know about before hand?
Also I don't have any jackstands, would it be bad idea to do differential work the the rear wheels pulled up into a pair of the little ramps that lift them about 10" off the ground?
Never had a differential cracked open before, kinda leary about it..
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Funkycheeze
Dodge Dakota
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11/06/2002
22:03:26
| RE: Installing lockers
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Message:
if you have resonable mechanical skills, installing a locker is no big deal - it's just a matter of taking the diff apart and reassembling it with the locker in place of the old open diff's spider gear train
and it would be a very bad idea to do it with the weight of the truck on its wheels - it is best done on a frame hoist or jackstands under the rear framerails
my advice to you is as follows
-get a limited-slip diff (detroit truetrac would be my choice) instead of a locker if your truck gets used for normal driving as well as track driving - a locker on dry pavement around corners is bad for your whole rear driveline and eats your tires
-if you want to install it yourself, get someone you know who has opened a diff before to help you, and make sure you have lots of tools on hand (you will need mostly wrenches and possibly some snap-ring pliers)
lastly, make sure you have enough diff lubricant to refill the diff when you are done, and that the lubricant is one specificed by the maker of the locker/limited slip unit - dont forget to dispose of the old lubricant properly
one more option for diff-choice might be someting like an ARB air-locker if you want the ability to turn it on at the flip of a switch, but the installation is more complicated due to compressed air actuation
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CW
GenIII
11/06/2002
22:14:18
|  RE: Installing lockers
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Message:
One thing I have heard is the lock right lockers don't like much HP or hard launches.
4.7 HO, CW style
2001 4.7 5sp 3.92 LSD
Ported 68mm TB, IAT adjuster, 3" flowmaster cat back, TPS @ .76V, 4" Z-tube, Roadmaster active suspention, Removed Third cat, Electric fan Convertion, HO cams, Robert shaw 180 therm, HO intake manifold.
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DaveR
GenII
11/06/2002
23:00:03
| RE: Installing lockers
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Message:
You have to have the wheels elivated for at least part of the time as you need to be able to pull the C clips that hold the axels in. For this you need to push the wheels in, pull the exposed clip out, then pull the axel out an inch or so.
I'm putting down 210hp at the wheels and haven't had any probloms yet. Of course this isn't a huge amount of power, but I am gearing up for a motor swap so I guess I'll know what kind of duribility it has. Supposidly it is made as hard or harder than the stock axel shafts so i'm not sure how it will stand up.
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Waltherone
Dodge Dakota
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11/07/2002
23:24:19
| RE: Installing lockers
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Message:
Alright, thanks for the answers guys.
On a budget, would it be a bad idea to instead just go with the dodge limited slip setup? It should be a bit cheaper (I'm finally starting to get more money, but need to get the squeak on my front end fixed too..) and I would think would be perfectly adequate?
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Waltherone
Dodge Dakota
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11/07/2002
23:25:27
| RE: Installing lockers
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Message:
The one I refer to is here
http://www.mopar.com/m_perf_parts_product_part.jsp?categoryID=10009&itemID=228
The one for 1984-01 9.25" (since that is what I have)
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