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dak318
Dodge Dakota
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6/27/2002
01:22:17
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 Subject: Engine Restorer?
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I own a 92 dak LE, the thing has 141,000 miles on it. The truck still runs like a beauty. The only thing that annoys me is at start up's. It gives off that damn puff of blue smoke. Will it be a good idea to put that engine restorer stuff in the motor. Will it damage the motor in anyway? sometimes that smoke is a pretty big cloud and sometimes its a small cloud, barely noticeable.
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Todd W
GenIII
6/27/2002
08:55:13
|  RE: Engine Restorer?
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If all your seeing is that 'puff of blue smoke' at startup, I wouldn't worry much. If your not using oil like it's gas, your fine. The puff basically means that the valve guides/seals are worn. Heck, I don't think I've seen an engine over 100,000 miles that -doesn't- puff at startup. Some of these engines, if properly cared for, go on to run for 200,000 or more.
I don't know if I'd recommend the engine restorer. My brother put some in his Delta 88 (305 w/ 160,000 miles on it). The engine ran great, but had started to 'puff' on startup. Well, the engine restorer stopped the puffing... three months later, the bearings spun. I'm not saying the restorer caused it, but it wouldn't surprise me.
If you want the problem fixed, take the truck in and get a head job done on it. There are two reasons this is good. First, they will replace all the valve seals and guides, and let you know if there are any problems up in the heads (IE: Burned valves about to drop into the cylinders). You also get new head gaskets out of the deal, and the heads get cleaned (decarbonized).
Secondly, they can let you know if they see anything wrong with the pistons/cylinders. By this I mean large scratchs in the cylinder walls, carbon damage, chunks missing or cracks in the pistons, ect.
I'd call around, you should be able to get the heads done for less than $600. :0)
'00 RC Sport Forest Green, 3.9L, 5-speed 3.55, Hurst Comp-Plus Shifter, Clear-Corners, Speed-Glo gauges, Airaid Intake with relocated IAT, Autolite 3923s, Ported Throttle Body, Borg & Warner Cap/Rotor, Accel Coil, JBA 9mm Wires, JET Stage II, 185 T-stat, Flowmaster 50 w/dual out
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dak318
Dodge Dakota
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6/27/2002
13:55:44
|  RE: Engine Restorer?
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Thanks for the advice
I think ill pass on the engine restorer
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sandman
Dodge Dakota
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6/27/2002
17:46:59
|  RE: Engine Restorer?
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I would put 20w50 in it in the warmer months. This will cut down on oil usage and that puff of smoke.
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Carl Justus
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2002
21:40:49
|  RE: Engine Restorer?
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You can replace the valve seals with the heads still on using compressed air in the cylinders, but make sure that both valves are closed before taking the locks off or you could drop one in the cylinder and have to take the head off anyway.
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sandman
Dodge Dakota
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11/29/2002
18:12:12
| RE: Engine Restorer?
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For those that do not already know!! Restore uses a mix of graphite and molibdunium to fill in and build up lose parts. THe problem with Restore is that the size of the particles is so large that you can see the little moly and graphite spheres with the un aided eye. This size particle will get broken down a bit smaler by the engine but alot will also get caught by the filter. In theroy it could plug the filter. If your filter becomes pluged and your vechiles go's bypass you will be circulateing unfiltered oil through your car. Most domestic vechiles with 100,000 miles or more have deffective bypass systems from wear and tear and varnish and sludge build up. So their is a strong chance that your bypass system will not function properly. If this happens you could spin a bearing due to lack of sufficent oil flow or you could burst a filter. On a positive note restore does what it claims to do.
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sandman
Dodge Dakota
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11/29/2002
18:12:19
| RE: Engine Restorer?
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For those that do not already know!! Restore uses a mix of graphite and molibdunium to fill in and build up lose parts. THe problem with Restore is that the size of the particles is so large that you can see the little moly and graphite spheres with the un aided eye. This size particle will get broken down a bit smaler by the engine but alot will also get caught by the filter. In theroy it could plug the filter. If your filter becomes pluged and your vechiles go's bypass you will be circulateing unfiltered oil through your car. Most domestic vechiles with 100,000 miles or more have deffective bypass systems from wear and tear and varnish and sludge build up. So their is a strong chance that your bypass system will not function properly. If this happens you could spin a bearing due to lack of sufficent oil flow or you could burst a filter. On a positive note restore does what it claims to do.
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Daff
Dodge Dakota
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4/28/2007
05:56:29
| RE: Engine Restorer?
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Just want to correct something here about Engine Restorer. It's operative particles a "CSL" (copper(59%-silver(1%)-lead(40%) "proximity percentages"), particle sizes from 5 micron to 17 micron balls, mostly will pass through the filter were stripped metal shards from engine won't (they "snag" in the filter). Ever made birdshot? Drop molten lead into a bucket of water, forms into "balls". Same basic theory in forming CSL micron particles.
I have a '85 Toyota 4x4 R22 EFI (fuel injected)x-cab with 455,000 miles on it that I'm trying to hang onto, this is a cattle ranch and this is and all around useful truck for this business. Still gets the job done but has lost 33% average in compression and HP. I've researched these kinds of products and narrowed down to two I would not consider "snake oil". A freind of mine has a friend who used it and found it worked (four wheel rock climbing jeeps). I've seen plenty other "talk" on this product and much of it is positive results, some just "think" it snake oil and haven't bother to really find out.
Proof is in the pudding! I've done all the prep work and am going to put it in tomorrow but think it will work to a large degree. However I would not use this on new vehicles with low mileage. There is another product called "Xado" (cermet matrix) which is more expensive but I'm convinced from what I've researched that it will do an exception job on new and old. I would also add "not to use anything" of this nature before rings have had time to "seat" in the cylinders (first 100 or 200 miles). This matrix coating of ceramic and metal is only a few mils thick which is four to six times harder than metal and has a much better friction coefficient and the "fix" is permanent unlike Engine Restorer which you have to keep in your oil after each drain/change. It was hard to find any actual test results but I did find one done in Germany if anyone is interested (Xado). This particular "substance" is "activated" by friction and as the friction reduces the coating process stops so it doesn't "over build" a coating. I don't know the effect this harder substance will have on later machining on blocks and the "cutting" tools they use to do it but if it causes a vehicle to give you four or more lifetimes of normal use then who really cares on this one.
If anyone one cares to see the results of the "pudding" after about 200 to 1000 miles after I add the "Engine Restore" feel free to ask or I'll post it here for you all. I've done the pre-check on cylinder psi and will do the "after" then we'll see if my foregone conclusions are correct.
Down the road I will try the more expensive Xado product for a more permanent result and see just how that turns out but I have eight bucks right now to do this one. Just for another note: Engine Restorer won't really help the friction coefficient and CLS is maleable so constantly has to be replaced thus you have to keep it in each oil change but a small price to pay to re-gain compression and HP and extend the life of an old vehicle that's still doing what it was meant to do.
Get the "sludge" out! Do a good engine flush first, one that won't further damage friction parts. Change oil and filter, include Engine Restorer after heating the engine up. Go an extra step a save the last quart of oil to add and put engine restorer in it and heat it up first on stove (hot water) before you pour it into engine. Make sure you don't "overfill". Putting the stuff in cold will not have it mix and spread well in the oil at first. Remember, this is copper silver and lead (heavy elements) so you don't want them to settle out before reaching friction points. Take it for an immediate drive and run no more than around 2700 rpm's for 30 minutes so it will "burnish" into metal wear points. Find out what your "Pudding" is!
Daff
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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4/28/2007
15:52:43
| RE: Engine Restorer?
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When I came back from Europe a while back (military), I had a '69 Mustang in storage. It had nearly 200K miles on it. The whole car was in well worn shape.
The original 351W burned a lot of oil. I added a can or Restore, and after a few tanks of fule it got noticably better. I was keeping track, and knew exactly how much oil it was burning. It decreased the oil burning by 1/2 - 2/3 or so. After that the car ran pretty good, and got halfway decent mileage.
A couple of years later I took the engine apart. The rings on a few of the pistons were broke, and fell out when I removed the pistons. 3 of the rods were bent. I didn't bother to mic the bores or journals, I just took them to the machine shop.
Did the Restore help? Yeah, I believe it did. Would I use it again? You bet I would. Would I recommend it to Dak318? Yeah, I would. I can't see that it would hurt anything. It costs about $10, and it might help a little.
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slowdakota97
Dodge Dakota
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4/28/2007
17:09:54
| RE: Engine Restorer?
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I have 111,000 on my 318 and its a 97. Would the next oil change be a good time to use some engine restore? If so what brand would be best?
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Derick
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2009
10:18:46
| RE: Engine Restorer?
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What happens if you just pour restore straight into engine. Does it really need to be mixed with engine oil before use.
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2009
10:31:22
| RE: Engine Restorer?
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it's best to follow the manufacturers directions on the package for the best results. otherwise i'm sure you will be disappointed.
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