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JerryM
Dodge Dakota
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5/06/2008
15:06:40
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 Subject: AT fluid change
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My 2000 4.7 liter 4x4 is coming up on 60k miles. Dodge says to change the tranny fluid every 30k.
Was wondering if other owners just drained and replaced the fluid, or went with the system flush. I have also read posts about using full synthetic AT fluid, but not sure if it worth doing.
Any help?
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Lee
Dodge Dakota
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5/06/2008
18:00:12
| RE: AT fluid change
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I just do a drain and refill, and I also replace both filters each time. Make sure you clean the pan really well and put the magnet back in its spot. Do a good job with the gasket sealer. If your trans is like mine, there is NO gasket, just sealer!
I always use Mopar ATF and filters. Your transmission might say that it requires ATF+3, but you will only find ATF+4 at the dealers these days. That's fine; ATF+4 is compatible with ATF+3 transmissions, just NOT the other way around. I have not tried any fluids or filters other than the Mopar brand. They are probably fine, but I don't have the money to waste finding out!
My 2000 Dak 2WD has almost 91,000 miles on it, so I just did the trans fluid for the third time. The trans is still as smooth and quiet as the day I bought the truck (new).
Lee
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JerryM
Dodge Dakota
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5/06/2008
21:03:28
| RE: AT fluid change
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Thanks Lee!
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Kowalski
GenIII
5/07/2008
16:54:42
| RE: AT fluid change
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If your manual specs ATF+3 for your '00 45RFE, it's likely an early year manual and, I believe, wrong. My late '00 manual specs +4 for that transmission. Many have reported improper operation of the 45RFE with +3. I just drain and do filters also, but mine doesn't have any sealer - it has a permanent reusable gasket. Similar to the gasketing on the TB, water pump, and valve covers.
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
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miltonwaddums
Dodge Dakota
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5/08/2008
14:02:19
| RE: AT fluid change
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Kowalski,
Lee's 2000 may have a 3.9 or 5.9 with the 42 or 46re, which may take ATF+3 ok. I don't know. Just making an observation/suggestion.
My truck is coming around for it's second ATF change, but I doubt it ever received it's first one. I bought it last summer with 37k on the clock and now it has 57k. In any case, my life should be calming down in the coming months and an ATF change is on the list. I definitely want to go synthetic, but can I just drain and fill with a dino to syn swap or do I need to flush? I'm not made of money and therefore the drain and fill sounds much more appealing. Can I drain the torque converter to get a more effective drain and fill?
I know the answers are probably on this board already, but you seem pretty knowledgable about the 545rfe, so I'm asking you directly.
Thanks,
Jay
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Lee
Dodge Dakota
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5/08/2008
14:16:24
| RE: AT fluid change
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Jay,
My truck has a 4.7 and 45RFE trans. I think mine is an early 2000, as I recall the early ones took ATF+3, while the later ones took ATF+4. In any case, ATF+4 will work in either one.
I see no benefit to going to synthetic (for all I know, the Mopar stuff IS synthetic), and I have heard of people having problems after using non-Mopar brand ATF. This could be total hogwash, but I didn't want to take any chances. I'm not made of money either, and I understand the 45RFE is an expensive trans to replace.
There is no provision to drain the torque converter without removing the engine or trans. This might be why the fluid change needs to be done fairly often (30k miles).
That's about all I know on the subject!
Lee
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Kowalski
GenIII
5/08/2008
17:25:09
| RE: AT fluid change
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Message:
Okay guys, here's some more observations. Since Lee's post was in response to a question specifically about a 45RFE behind an '00 4.7 - for my response it really didn't even matter what was in Lee's truck. We were talking about an '00 45RFE. I've never seen any information to suggest that the early '00 45 RFE took +3 fluid. Only that some have claimed their manuals said it did - which I believe indicates an error in the early ownwer's manuals. That is based on my '00 owners manual specifying +4. It looks more like they fixed an error than any 45RFEs coming with a +3 fill. All other info clearly says the 45RFE and 545RFE take +4.
If you want to replace the fluid in the torque converter, the best way is by flushing. Mopar +4 is not synthetic. Now you know a bit more...
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
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Lee
Dodge Dakota
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5/09/2008
12:04:46
| RE: AT fluid change
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"I've never seen any information to suggest that the early '00 45 RFE took +3 fluid."
I have. The dipstick says so. But it's a moot point, Mopar doesn't make ATF+3 anymore and ATF+4 works just fine in the 45RFE transmissions.
Lee
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fotodak
Dodge Dakota
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5/12/2008
16:16:52
| RE: AT fluid change
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ATF +3 is no longer made and +4 is synthetic.
You can get Valvoline +4 at Auto Zoo and Wally World, probably others. AFAIK the MoPar stuff is made by Valvoline.
About $4.25/qt.
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Chase
Dodge Dakota
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5/21/2008
14:35:48
| RE: AT fluid change
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Like they said before, they changed from +3 to +4 in 2000 or 2001, and +4 can be used in +3 applications. I had been having mine flushed but decided to change the filters this last time. It requires 2, a spin on for the cooler lines and the regular vavle body type. If you change filters, be sure to install the seal into the valve body orafice very well before you install the filter(valve body one). Make sure you put the valve body filter securely into the seal before putting the bolt back in. I bought aftermarket filters instead of Dodge and the filter fell out of the orafice the first time I put it back together. I reinstalled and its been running fine now, but I wonder if there isn't a slight difference in the aftermarket filer that allowed it to happen
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TexasTodd
Dodge Dakota
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5/21/2008
23:51:21
|  RE: AT fluid change
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+4 is a synthetic blend, not total synthetic.
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dick
Dodge Dakota
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10/22/2008
08:43:20
| RE: AT fluid change
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You can flush yourself, remove cooler return line, put a short hose over the end into a container. Run the eng. at idle for 1/2 a min until about 4 qt. pumps out. Shut off, remove almost empty pan, do filter adj.bands etc.Refill with ATF AND RUN AGAIN
until color changes or 4 qts pumps out (don't run dry). Add more fluid & drain more if necessary and top off. Your now 95%+ changed not 50%.
Replace return line of course.
Did my 1st change at 190k+ mi.(when I bought it) it was very dark, so I could see a big change when new fluid started coming out. Ran an extra qt. to be sure. Still running fine at 240k miles.
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