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V8 Dakotas
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street4life
Dodge Dakota
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3/25/2008
10:05:53
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 Subject: a shelby dakota
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with the crane hookers is the 5.2 la v8 engine going to take 1.7 or higher? its at 1.6 right now i belive, also is the 175 hp and 270 pound tq really right on the shelby dakota, cause my car goes 0-60 in under 8 seconds without anymods, im fixing to go carb and intakemanifold with edelbrock, how much horsepower is this going to give me, any info on any of these questions would be great, thanx
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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3/25/2008
11:02:49
|  RE: a shelby dakota
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Stock rocker ratio on 5.2 LA engine is 1.5:1. If you find 1.7:1 rockers for an LA, post the link. Increased rocker ratio of 1.6:1 brings the basic cam gross lift to roughly equal to the cam specs of the 5.2 Magnum cam. The power numbers are correct, but you're comparing some car to a 3600 lb truck with aerodynamics of a brick. New, a Shelby Dak would run 0-60 in 8.7 seconds.
At the time, decent, and enough to handily dispense with all those little annoying Nissan Hardbody trucks that were everywhere.
The carb will net about 15-20hp. Depending on where you are now on the rockers, you might actually get up around 215hp/300ft/lbs. If you're gonna go carb, you have the potential for a streetable 400hp at the crank with a few very reasonable upgrades.....and the right cam.
Crane Hookers?
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1baddak
Dodge Dakota
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3/25/2008
12:35:52
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Hey gen 1 do you know what you have to change in the ing. wiring to bypass the comp. and run a carb?
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F1504ever
Dodge Dakota
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3/25/2008
19:09:48
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Shelby Dakota? I didn't know Ford made Dakotas, too.
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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3/25/2008
20:52:37
| RE: a shelby dakota
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1baddak. Yes.
F1504ever. What are you, 12? Seriously, Shelby did an extended stint in the 80's through the early 90's with Dodge. Shelby was involved in development of a string of Shelby signature Dodges including the Dakota, and was even involved in the Viper's development.
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Another idiot
Dodge Dakota
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3/25/2008
21:51:14
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Look at the 2.2 rampage with the Shelby sig ......
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Jon
Dodge Dakota
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3/26/2008
10:45:44
| RE: a shelby dakota
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F1504ever is super intelligent.
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F1504ever
Dodge Dakota
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3/26/2008
18:10:27
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Yeah. I knoe that alreddy. thanks.
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street4life
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2008
16:16:33
|  RE: a shelby dakota
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hey gen1, thanks for the info, on april 1st me and my freind coby installed a edelbrock intake manifold which is all aluminum, and a holley carb(the street avenger set) as well as a fuel pump, the carb is getting gas and even sometimes starts my shelby up, but when the idle is at 2000 opposed to 1000, and after 1 minute or so the truck dies out, WE CANNOT FIGURE OUT WHAT THE JESUS IS WRONG, the orginal fuel pump is still under the car so the gas is go through two, also maybe the computer is messing me up, i really cant figure it out, but right now the truck is just sitting at his house, and its my daily driver other than my craptastic olds, do you know what i might have done wrong, is their some wire on the firewall i need to cut?
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Kowalski
GenIII
4/03/2008
19:04:14
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Sounds like you could be putting too much fuel pressure to the carb. What does reading the plugs tell you ?
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2008
23:35:45
| RE: a shelby dakota
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First, along the lines Kowalski has brought up. What fuel pump did you add? It's running how much pressure? The stock pump alone is waay too much for a carb and should be used with a regulator. The original TBI had easily twice the fuel pressure a carb uses. So how's this second pump configured and is it for a carb or fuel injection (how much pressure can it make)? You only need 5-7 psi for a carb. Are you using the fuel return line to dump the excess fuel back into the fuel tank? Need to resolve these questions, because you may very well be flooding it out. I have a RamCharger that did exactly the same thing with a faulty stock 2V carb and a mechanical fuel pump, so it's even more likely with those electric pumps.
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street4life
Dodge Dakota
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4/10/2008
11:14:29
| RE: a shelby dakota
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its an electric fuel pump, see i wish i had known the thing about the fuel pump, cause recently i added a new ditributor with a vaccum, and now the truck is not starting at all, at least the way it was before the truck would at least start up for like 30 seconds, now ever since we put in the distributor the truck wont start at all, as far as psi pressure, i wouldnt know how to check, please lemme know what i can do, do i need to unistall both fuel injectors, cause i dont know much about the one thats underneath the truck, the one i bought thats electric sits in the engine alongside the wheel well, and coby ran a wire to it to inject fuel, you can hear it inject fuel everytime the key is turned, the carb is definently getting fuel, its shooting out, as far as electrical problems, i think i have those as well, if you have heard anything at all about what to do in these kinds of situations, please lemme know, at this point coby has given up and im finishing this project solo.
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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4/11/2008
01:18:01
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Ok, it's kinda late, and I'll need to go into some detail here, so more saturday....I have a long day friday. The carb may be getting fuel. It may be getting way too much fuel, and this will kill an engine. It'll literally drown, even when running. Here's the deal. First off, you can use just the electric fuel pump that came on the truck. You will need a fuel pressure regulator (I use one by Mallory)...single inlet, dual outlet. The main outlet goes to the carb, the secondary goes to the stock fuel return line. It would help to get a fuel pressure tester, but it is possible to wing it without one. The Mallory regulator limits max pressure to about 11 psi, so you could just tighten the adjuster a little knowing that it will reduce pressure as you do...you'll get it down to 7psi in 1 to 1 1/2 turns. The other option involves wiring in an electric pump for carbs. Either way, it'll cost about the same, but using the stock pump with regulator is a cleaner, easier way to go.
The vacuum advance distributor isn't a deal killer. I will need to look to make sure I tell you the correct wires to splice. It's just a couple/three wires (depends on the vehicle), and this will allow you to run the truck pretty much as-is. It'll start up and behave as if nothing was changed, til you get on it. The computer will still handle everything else, including battery charging and AC, stuff like that. Optionally, you'd need to run an external regulator and other bypasses if not using the computer.
This may require a little back-tracking, but the way I'm telling you is a time-honored and proven method. It's even in the Mopar Performance manuals as the way they suggest bypassing certain things for performance buildups. Unless friday comes in short somehow, it'll be saturday before I'm back on her. I'll have the wire info then. Gotta get my book out just to be sure.
What I would like to know is what intake manifold you are using, and what distributor.
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street4life
Dodge Dakota
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4/24/2008
19:44:04
| RE: a shelby dakota
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im using an electric fuel pump that pumps out 5 psi and is specifically made for the 4barrel holley street avenger carb. the intake mani fold is an all aluminum edelbrock with matching gasket. the one underneath the truck had been unhooked. i think that im having problem with the distributor and hopefully the performance ignition system(WHATEVER BRAND NAME IS CHEAPA) will finally solve this cunumdrum. here is the scenario thus far, when i first purchased the truck it ran fine. all it did is overheat until i stuck a thermostat in. the radiator needs to be replaced. otherwise the truck ran great. about a month ago i installed the edelbrock intakemanifold and 4 barrl holley street carb, along with an elctric pump that is to be used with the carb(according to the guy who has been working my truck). after the last bolt was tightened we started my truck up, the truck ran at 2000 rpm(as to where before it was 800 rpm) for aprox. 35 seconds, then died out. took ten times for it to start up, ran for 35 seconds at 2000 rpm then died out again. the only thing ive done to the truck beyond that is i replaced the distibutor with a new one that has a vacuum. now ever since ive done that the truck doesnt start up at all no matter how manytimes i tryn start it. ive been talking with a mechanic, and he says in a nutshell that if i buy a ignition sytem from MSD or whatever, that ALL MY PROBLEMS WITH THE VEHICLE WILL BE SOLVED. is this too good to be true? probably but im hoping with all my hope that will cure my truck. also he says that is has to be my TBI that is completly screwing my truck situation, whats the tbi? the computer?, ANY INFO ONCE AGAIN WILL BE GREATLY APPRECITED, LIKE I SAID IM SOLO ON THIS PROJECT AND I HAVE LIMITED TO NO KNOWLEDGE ON DIAGNOSING ELECTRICAL FAILURES ON VEHICLES.
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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4/24/2008
21:50:03
| RE: a shelby dakota
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TBI= throttle body injector.....which you have removed, so, yes, that's part of the problem. It would start initially because you still had the stock distributor in place, but shut down quickly because of the ASD....Auto ShutDown relay. The computer could no longer get info from the TBI, so it kicks in the ASD, which killed the ignition. Now, you have a non-stock distributor that killed the signal to the ignition altogether. The computer is getting no signal at all (from the distributor), so nothing will work. To test this, run a wire to the coil. It'll start then and run. That's not a solution, just a test. Leaving power on the coil all the time could cause a fire eventually, so don't think you have it licked by doing that. Running it through a circuit that'll activate when the key is on would be better, but just tap the + on the battery to test what I'm saying. Going around the computer will work, but it requires bypassing each component. You'll need an external regulator for the charging system. If you have an AC, you'll have to bypass that too. See the trend? Everything goes through the computer, so you'll need to bypass everything........OR do like I said and read how to splice a few wires. It's in the book in the section starting on page 308. It allows use of a carburetor and your stock fuel pump. Use the Mopar Performance distributor kit (which includes the info on wires to splice) and a fuel pressure regulator. It'll be hard to tell it's not stock, or you can run a Frankenstein bypass rig. Using an aftermarket system will require an external bypass 12 volt power supply to the ignition. If you insist of doing it "your" way, you will find that, once running, the overdrive will not engage, and torque converter will not lock up. Naturally, you can bypass this with a 12 volt power supply controlled via toggle switch. You'll have to do that either way since the TBI sensors are no longer in use. There's the easy way and the hard way. Your way will require a bottle of aspirin as well, but it can be done.
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Tom Byrne
Dodge Dakota
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4/27/2008
15:08:33
| RE: a shelby dakota
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I am running a TBI on an Edelbork peerfomrer manifold on my Shelby. In fact, I am looking for a 360 TB fo improve flow. My Shelby, when stock, ran the quarter in 16.1. Haven't tried with the new manifold and headers.
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street4life
Dodge Dakota
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5/01/2008
16:36:01
|  RE: a shelby dakota
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would you mind telling me how to splice those few wires or more impotantly a detailed description of where there located on the truck, without a credit card i wont get that book from online, ive been buying all my parts from advance, unless you know somewhere that sells em in austin texas, book would be handy i agree but if the intranet is the only place i can purchase it ill do without. thank you for your help brother. right now i have the msd single spark ingnition and ss blaster coil from msd as well,,,,,,if i knew where those wires where i would return the msd stuff. if i new what to do to the wires as well. the truck has no a.c so i aint worried about that, but charging the battery is a problem, i need the computer to be easy, not rewiring everything i want to it, if theirs an easier way to do this, pleaseeeee tell me details, i will be working on my truck based apon the details you provide, thank ya gen1
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1baddak
Dodge Dakota
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5/02/2008
10:08:35
| RE: a shelby dakota
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OK street4life here is a phone number to a guy that can help you. Its KRC performance in Cocoa fl.321 635 8866 ask for Marty.
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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5/08/2008
12:49:57
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Go to this link:
http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cache:V2qHktSs0J0J:www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf+Wiring+in+a+Mopar+Performance+ignition+system&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=6&gl=us&client=firefox-a
Scroll down to the part that states:
REPLACING LOGIC COMPUTER CONTROLLED IGNITION (w/FUEL INJECTION)
It's about the 5th page. Have fun.
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street4life
Dodge Dakota
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5/20/2008
16:52:15
| RE: a shelby dakota
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okay gen1dak, i got the truck running, i had to take it to the shop and they did everything except the battery isnt getting a charge, the timing is good but the truck is running weird the carb didnt have a place for the throttle to attach to, so i suppose if i get a hurst shifter it might fix the truck from being so slow, the fans are constantly on now, but i wonder whats making it run so slow,the bracket controlling the floor pedal and the throttle is on their weird, i was looking on the info of the holley 4 barrel street avenger carb and it says not to use with chrysler trannies, lemme know if youve ever heard of other cases like this
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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5/21/2008
00:20:59
| RE: a shelby dakota
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Sounds like they didn't read the instructions either. If it's slow, either the ignition is not set right (probably no vacuum advance), or, since the throttle is rigged together, is the transmission kickdown hooked up? It has to be hooked up or the tranny will burn up. The kickdown controls line pressure. As the throttle is opened, the kickdown increases line pressure which increases cluth pressure. No line pressure, no transmission fluid flow. No flow, NO GO. And no lube. That would tend to slow things down. Probably both problems are present. If the fans are on all the time, it sounds like they've only rigged it more (sounds like they spliced a hot wire in somewhere and it's by-passed the fan control and computer. As soon as you turn the key, the fans and coil are getting power), and if the battery isn't receiving power, it's definitely rigged (why? The computer has the regulator internally, and controls charging. No charge? NO COMPUTER). The instructions I linked you to allow full normal operation with a carburetor swap. I told you, there are 2 ways. Either you use a work-around for each individual item (external regulator on alternator, etc, or like the instructions say. The shop did neither. I know this without even seeing the work. Running a hot wire to the coil will achieve the results you have. That's exactly what I found when I did it....back before there was an internet. YOU HAVE TO DO THE WORK. The shop took your money and all you have is a bigger mess, just as I told you would happen. There are no shortcuts. Either do it right, or beg someone to buy it, take what you can get, and move on.
The only reason the street Avenger carb wouldn't work is lack of provisions for the transmission kickdown linkage. Buying a Hurst shifter will not solve anything. The only way to get around the throttle kickdown is to have a full manual valve body installed in the transmission. What that means, is you will have to manually shift the first 3 gears, and will still need a switch to activate the overdrive. Fun for a little while (about 2 hours, maybe 3 hours with a floor shifter), then just an annoyance on the street.
You're wasting a lotta time and money(?) on this and getting nowhere. It all comes back to doing it the right way. You tired of banging your head against the wall yet?
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