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Josh90Dak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/23/2006
21:27:54
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 Subject: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
be damned if i can find it. i've taken off or disconnected everything i can think of and i still have a short in the ignition system when the key is turned to on or start. i disconnected the negative and connected a test light between the negative on the battery and the wire. with the key on i've disconnected the following to no avail: wipers,alternator,engine computer,coil,blower transistors, blower controls,cig lighter,radio,instument cluster,headlight swith,o/d switch, pulled fuses one at a time, intermittent wiper control, checked both blue and red wire splices, cruise controls & mechanism, neutral switch and o/d connector on the transmission, stripped engine wiring harness and inside harness up steering column. i am still looking, anything you can think of that i missed? or any ideas? 92 318mag 2x4 mpi.
sometimes i can get the engine to start, idles normal, try and drive it and it stalls out and won't restart.
and the lil test light gets me yet again....
Josh
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zzark
*GenII*
8/23/2006
21:40:28
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
Why do you say you have a short circuit?
zzark
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Josh90Dak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/24/2006
09:51:17
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
my test light comes on when it's connected between the negative on the battery and the negative power cable, with the positive still attached.
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Kowalski
GenIII
8/24/2006
11:58:07
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
Wouldn't you expect it to light up with the ignition turned on ?
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
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DanK
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/24/2006
14:17:27
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
And even with the ignition OFF, there will be some current draw, thanks to the clock, radio memory hold circuit, remote door lock/alarm system, overhead console homelink, and engine/transmission computers.
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Josh90Dak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/24/2006
14:34:45
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
radio memory and engine/transmission computers would be the only things to draw after the key is off, doesn't have anything else. the only thing i didn't unplug was the transimission computer(if it has one?). should i expect that the light would be on with the key on? cause it doesn't come on with the key in the locked, off or acc positions. i understand certain things would draw power, even off, to hold memory. but i don't see positive power in the ground side without a short, unless i'm missing something that i don't know about. whatever was using the power would take it in as positive but by the time it got back out and to the battery it would be negative (thus DC), right?
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Rob C
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/24/2006
15:01:50
|  RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
Sounds like you have the corroded 3-wire splice near the underhood fuse box. Disconnect the battery and look for the 3-wire splice. You're going to have to unwrap the wiring harness near the underhood fuse box. Once you find it, trim the corroded part off and either resplice or solder the wires together. I would prefer soldering. If you're not an experienced solderer, you're going to need a soldering iron, flux paste, solder, heat shrink tubing and hi-temperature tape. Strip the wires (don't straightened the twists in the strands), put a little flux paste on them and tin the wires by heating the wires and touching the solder to them. If you do it right, the wires with the twists will be visible and they'll be a nice bright silver. Next, slip the heat shrink tubing past the tinned wire then put flux on the wires, solder them together by holding the tinned, fluxed wires together and getting some hot solder on the iron then touch the wires. The flux will draw the hot solder onto the wires almost instantly. Remember, less is better, you don't want a glob of solder on thoses wires. Then slip the heat shrink tubing over the soldered area and heat it to make it shrink. (You can use many things to heat the tubing, a heat shrink gun is best but, a hair dryer that's about 1800 watts should work pretty good, using an open flame is least preferred but, if you do be extremely careful.) Finally, wrap the wires in hi-temp tape. Good luck!
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zzark
*GenII*
8/24/2006
20:30:31
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
Rob C,
That was a very good explanation!
I hope that is the problem, 'cause I don't have a clue as to what he was trying to say.
zzark
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Josh90Dak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/31/2006
23:09:01
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
Rob C, to which 3 wire splice are you refering too? not to try and sound like a prick but if you read above i've already done the 4 wire blue (in the under hood fuse box) and red (part ways across the fire wall on the drivers side) splices. I do know how to solder aswell, but that was a very good description anyway, thanks.
I've been away for awhile but it's time to get back at it. if i figure this out i'll let you guys know.
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Rob C
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/03/2006
03:57:42
| jayb could help
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Message:
I can't give you a precise description since I don't own your generation Dak but, I've read about the 3-wire splice many times. It's a known issue with the Gen2 Daks. jayb recently had to fix his. The 3-wire splice is suppose to connect power to the ignition and fuel pump.
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Rob C
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/03/2006
04:24:18
|  RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
Sorry, I meant to say Gen1 Daks.
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zzark
*GenII*
9/03/2006
22:17:46
| RE: short circuit
IP: Logged
Message:
Gen 2 also!
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