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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2004
10:13:23
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 Subject: Clean V6 TB available
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Message:
Message:
hi, I just upgraded my 98 3.9l Dak to a 5.2l throttle body and now have the original one available. I have cleaned it up, removed the air horns, ported/polished it and made it look damn good (IMHO). There is a brand new manifold gasket included too (I bought one, but the second one was stuck to it - nobody said anything).
Complete with all the sensors etc. (BTW the TPS measures .79 from the factory so no mod was needed).
I have pics avialable at http://www.freewebs.com/jguertin/throttlebody.htm
anyone interested?
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GB2000
GenIII
7/02/2004
12:11:39
|  RE: Clean V6 TB available
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If it were me, I'd have removed all the parts sticking up on the top...but that's just me. Looks really nice either way. I'd go for it, but I just put a new ported/polished one on myself...I didn't do nearly as good, but hey, that's what I get for using a dremel...lol
Josh
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greyDak
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2004
12:50:54
| RE: Clean V6 TB available
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I left the bits on to help align the airhat - that and I couldnt see how it would make that much of a difference (labour wise). Also, I did use a dremel, but mostly I used 120, 240, 400, and 600 grit emery cloth and got a sore arm. I hacked it with a saw and shaped with some fine files but then just began to rub (lol).
I did the same to the V8 one, but left the horns on - did nt want to over do it.
John
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tizod
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2004
13:09:59
| RE: Clean V6 TB available
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how much for the stock/modded v6 one man? and shipping to atlanta ga 30102???
tluve69@yahoo.com
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2004
13:30:08
| RE: Clean V6 TB available
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tizod - I need to get in touch with the post office to see what the shipping cost is, but I was thinking that $130 is fair. I put about 6 hours of manual labour into this thing.
what's your opinion?
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TIZOD
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2004
15:54:38
| RE: Clean V6 TB available
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SURE SO IT IS A STOCK V6 MOD'D TO TAKE THE TOURQE STEP OUT CORRECT, AND IF POSSILE SEE IF U CAN SHIP FEDX THEY R CHEAPER THAN UPS AND FASTER THAN POSTAL.
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2004
16:03:54
| RE: Clean V6 TB available
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Message:
just to clarify - I have not eliminated the torque step (although it has been reduced). My concern was going too far (since I dont have a verticle mill or quality measuring tools - I used an inexpensive vernier caliper and my eye). I figure it can be further tooled to eliminate the step, but it is not what I was after. The elimination of the horns, radiusing and polishing of the TB down to the butterfly plates was the task. So if you are after a fully ported unit - this is not it. However, if you are looking for one that works (well) and has all but that part done, we have a deal.
BTW, since I am in Canada, I will need to double check the cost, but there is a Fedex around the corner that I can check on.
Let me know, I'd rather make a friend than make an enemy if you know what I mean.
John
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chaz koch
Dodge Dakota
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7/18/2004
18:01:53
|  RE: Clean V6 TB available
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Message:
was just wondering how you go about cutting off the air horns &polishing my tb.is there a site to show how this is done?i cant seem to find one,any help or info would be great.thanks chaz
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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7/18/2004
19:11:06
| RE: Clean V6 TB available
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Message:
Hi Chaz. First and foremost, what I did was to get another TB to work on -JUST IN CASE!
I found a V8 TB that I cleaned up and took out any rough areas in the air-flow area. Since the V8 and V6 TB are not exactly the same (the V8 uses a different throttle cable connection) I swapped out the TBs and made sure the new one worked.
These are the tools I used: a hacksaw, a dremel tool with 60 grit barrel sander attachment, 120-240-400 and 600 grit sand paper.
- dissasemble the throttle body. Take all the sensors off and put them aside. Remove the spring bracket and put it aside.
-with some care and determination, remove the screws that hold the butterfly valves in place. These are tough to take out, because they are desinged to not come out easy. The torx may strip extremely easy and if this happens, use a pair of vise grips and carefully undo the screws. Set them aside and tip the throttle leaver to put the plates at 90 degrees and pull them out. NOTE the number that is stamped on the bottom of each plate. When you put it back to gether you need to put them back in the same place.
- now, with the butterfly valves out, firmly grasp the throttle lever and "wiggle and pull" it out of the throttle body. It might be tough, but it will come out. Watch for the big spring as it can get hooked up too. With these parts out of the way you are ready to do some work.
- start by carefully hacksawing off the "horns" that circle the openings. Use some care here and a bench vise to hold things tight. Try not to put the vise too tight as to make dents in the metal but tight enough to hold it firm. It can be awkward to get them all out, but go slow and carefully and it will be fine. take care around the parts that align the air hat gasket.
note: I left the piece that holds the air hat screw in place, but some have removed that too. I think it will make minimal difference at this level myself.
- with the dremel tool and the 60 grit barrel sander, smooth out all your cut areas, rounding off all surfaces so they are smooth and free of burrs.
- continue with the dremel/barrel into the bores of each opening. You will notice the slight rise in the metal just before the place where the butterly valves normally rest. This is the torque step and it needs to be removed. Sand it flat so you cannot feel it compared to the surface below the valve resting place.
- with the troque step done, its time to get the elbow grease out. Using 120 grit paper, sand all the ares that you just dremel'd. You are trying to smooth out the scratches in the aluminum that the 60 grit left.
- continue with the 240 grit after you are happy with the 120 grit. The same process is used to eliminate the scratches left by the previous sand paper.
- when you get to the 360 or 400 grit paper, start to use water to assist the sanding. It will make a mess, but keep going. Finish off with the 600 grit paper and lots of water.
- when you finish, wash the trottle body very well with lots of water to clean up the mess. Wipe it down and dry it off
- use a quality throttle body cleaner to rinse it one more time, and go into each opeing and crevise. If you have compress air, blow everything out and dry it off.
- reassemble the trottle body, taking care with the screws that connect the butterfly plates.
- use a new manifold gasket if you can, it works better.
after you install it, reset the computer, and within a few days you should notice a somewhat better performance from your Dak.
Of course, if you want you can buy mine already done. I did mine but then went to the V8 TB for even higher performance gains. Mine is available for $130. You can see it at http://www.freewebs.com/jguertin/throttlebody.htm
or see the post http://www.dodgedakota.net/boards/v6/9747.html
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chaz koch
Dodge Dakota
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7/19/2004
20:09:41
| RE: Clean V6 TB available
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Message:
hey greydak,thanks for the info it will help.i should have mentioned i have a stock v-8tb on my v-6 now but i can do the same to the v-8 t.b. correct? again Thanks,chaz
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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7/19/2004
20:57:49
|  RE: Clean V6 TB available
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Message:
careful. The stock v8 is too big for the V6 if you port and polish it (polishing should be ok, but dont port it). The problem is the low end torque would(might) be lost - according to this site. I found that the response of the stock unported V8 TB is like the response of the ported and polished V6 one. So be careful.
By the way, when you put the V8 TB on, did you change the throttle cable or did you do something else? I welded on a bung in the same location of the nipple on the V6. In that way I saved some $$ in the long run. (after all its not about how much money you spend, its about how much fun you have)
John
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