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23:54:28 - 12/19/2024
V6 Dakotas
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Gentle Man
Dodge Dakota
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6/23/2004
18:11:27
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 Subject: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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I`ve decided to change to synthetic oil and I`m going to do it this weekend. I know I`m taking a risk cause I own an 89` which always ran 10w30.
Can anyone tell me if there any preperations I should make? Like flushing the engine or is it just as easy as emptying the old oil and putting in the new. Since its a 3.9 litre I should just put in 4 litres right?
As well, are there any recommendations for a filter?
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me again
Dodge Dakota
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6/23/2004
22:50:17
|  RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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BUMP
Huh! no comments eh? Steve? Bob ? Anyone?
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dingo
Dodge Dakota
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6/23/2004
23:41:08
|  RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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Mobile 1 on both filter and oil in my opinion
there is a Mobile 1 specifically formulated for older engines and I think you can just change straight to synthetic without flushing, but change the oil earlier than usual it will take the residue out with it. 4liters should be enough
check owners' manual.
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Anyone
Dodge Dakota
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6/23/2004
23:44:30
| RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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Just change the filter and put the new oil in. Doing a flush might be risky.
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Bob Lincoln
Dodge Dakota
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6/24/2004
08:35:34
| RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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Just start using it. I've run it for 100K miles now, changing every 3-5K. Any good filter is fine.
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AmsoilSponsor
DakotaEnthusiast
6/24/2004
09:05:29
| Changing to Synthetic Oil & Synthetic Myths
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Synthetics Oils and Lubricants confused consumers when they were introduced into the automotive market by Amsoil over 30 years ago. Since that time consumers have gotten comfortable using synthetics ... however, there are still concerns and questions that need to be addressed on occassion.
There are no special requirements for switching from conventional petroleum to synthetic oil, however in much older vehicles or those with very high mileage, it may be advisable to use Engine Flush first. This will ensure that the engine is clean and free of any accumulated contaminants which might have an effect on the service life of Synthetic Motor Oils.
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# 1 Concern is usually --- Detergents
Q. I sometimes hear "Synthetic oils contain detergents that can make the oil seals leak in older vehicles."
Is this really an issue?
How old would a vehicle have to be to not use synthetics?
A. Synthetic lubricants do have an inherent detergency that cleans and removes conventional motor oil deposits left over in an engine. However, motor oils are designed to help swell seals slightly to prevent leakage. The only time you would observe seal leakage is if the seals are already damaged or showing signs of leakage around them. As long as the vehicle has been well maintained, and in good mechanical condition, it can be switched to a synthetic lubricant at any mileage.
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Most newer and low mileage vehicles can switch from dino to synthetic at any time without a flush. If you have a higher mileage vehicle I would recommend an engine flush.
Amsoil has an Engine Flush, but I am posting here to PERHAPS offer you an alternative. It's name is Auto-Rx, (and no - I do not sell this product). It is vegetable based and it does not affect chemistry or viscosity at all.
It is NOT an Additive but a engine cleaner that really works. It has a residual effect because it cleans the rings and valve seats and valve guide seals so well. Lasts 10000 miles or so in a gasoline engine.
Should you be concerned about seals? This product will simply clean the abrasive deposits that keep the seal from functioning normally. I've also talked to guys that have run tests and they say it doesn't damage anything.
I know another guy that told me he used it in an older engine with a noticable oil pan gasket leak and it almost stopped the leakage after 500 miles. He also stated that it also helped his noisy lifters and cleaned off baked on varnish.
This is not a recommendation, just looking to offer a "safe" alternative for Dakota owners that would prefer to flush their engines prior to switching.
You can check out their website at www.Auto-Rx.com
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Synthetic Objections & Myths
Let's put to bed some of the objections you will hear concerning the use of synthetic engine lubricants (some are old debates ... some are new):
Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize. Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.
Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness"). For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.
Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)
Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synthetic lubricants to suffer a bad reputation. Fortunately, those days are long gone. Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.
Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy. Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.
Myth #6: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
Untrue. In fact the very low ash content of synthetics will extend the life of every exhaust system component.
Myth #7: Synthetics void warranties.
Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill. Which may not make the dealers too happy since oil changes usually lead to other service work.
Myth #8: Synthetics last forever.
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non synthetics. Amsoil's unique additives packages allow for extended drain intervals.
Myth #9: Synthetics are too expensive.
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine lubricants more economical than conventional non synthetics. In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.
There are other MYTHS and non-truths circulating the forums, garages, and race tracks. The nine above are just a few that I wanted to address.
Conclusions
Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population. But the word has been getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in automobile lubrication, is here, and Amsoil has lead the march, recently celebrating their 30th year in business. For the environmental enthusiasts, the use of synthetics could reduce waste oil disposal by 80%, so if environment is your thing, then synthetic lubricants should be your choice.
__________________________________________________
Request a FREE Amsoil Catalog by clicking below:
Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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Gentle Man
Dodge Dakota
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6/24/2004
19:35:31
| RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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Well I think I`ll skip the flushing deal. Although its an 89, I did recently drop in another engine that has only like 100k on it.
What would you recommend Steve, the 5w30?
I think I`m gonna go with amsoil. I checked around and most people here seem to prefer amsoil.
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AmsoilSponsor
DakotaEnthusiast
6/25/2004
10:25:57
| Amsoil SAE vs. Series 2000 -- Amzoil Ams Oil
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Gentle Man,
Amsoil's SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oils are excellent oils and have shown to be almost the same quality as the Series 2000. IMHO ... Amsoil 5w-30 gives you the best bang for $$$, and it is the oil I use.
__________ 
This is the oil that I use!
Recommended for Applications Requiring the Following Specifications: API SL, SJ, CF; ILSAC GF-2, GF-3; ACEA A-2, A-3, B-2, B-3; JASO VTW; Ford WSS M2C-153G; Chrysler MS-6395J, MS-9754, MS-10441; Daimler Chrysler M-B 229.1; M-B 229.3; Volkswagen 502.00, 505.00; GM 6094M
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Amsoil's SAE 100% Synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30, Product Code ASL
Amsoil's SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oils are excellent oils and have shown to be almost the same quality as our top of the line Amsoil Series 2000. IMHO ... Amsoil SAE 5w-30 or 10w-30 gives you the best bang for $$$, and it is the oil that I use.
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Amsoil Series 2000 100% Synthetic Motor Oil
Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 is the more shear stable of the two Amsoil formulations (SAE vs. Series 2000). The Series 2000 also reduces friction (better gas mileage -- fuel savings of approx 2%-3% in comparison to the 10w-30 in short trip driving), protects from heat and wear better, better engine cleanliness than the 5w-30 and 10w-30 due to higher detergency, better cold weather performance --- in any high performance application, --- and will provide the lowest oil consumption in older vehicles that are experiencing oil consumption problems.
Special note: Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 can be used to in place of 5w-20/5w-30/10w-30 oils. I'd even recommend it in engines that come with 0w-40 or 5w-40 grades.
Either oil is fine. I use the less pricey of the two. If you drive your truck "hard" --- you might be happier with your choice of the Series 2000.
Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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03SXT
Dodge Dakota
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6/26/2004
18:22:50
|  Changing to Synthetic oil!
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ive always been told that you shouldnt go to a synthetic oil after like 75k. b/c the mileage is to high, and to just use a high mileage type oil. anyone??
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Just Looking
Dodge Dakota
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6/27/2004
00:49:01
| RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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the high mileage type oil is just an oil with more seal swelling additives and is an oil that is made as thick as possible within viscosity ranges
from my experience synthetic motor oils seem to swell the seals just as good as that high mileage stuff
Heres a trick with an engine with low compression... put thicker oil in it and watch compression jump and yes it will run noticably better cause of it heck u can always put in a thicker synthetic also to simulate high mileage motor oil not to mention getting better lubrication from the synthetic
i just switched a 1970s ford f150 with a 302 v8 that has 180,000 miles over to synthetic the
15w-50 grade mobil 1
it ran smoother, i felt more power and the leaks have slowed and stopped not to mention my oil pressure stays higher when ran hard
ill have to admit though my first oil change when first switched to synthetic was very black due to the synthetic cleaning the junk and old carbon out but... after that the oil seems to stay like new
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AmsoilSponsor
DakotaEnthusiast
6/27/2004
06:34:59
|  Amsoil SAE vs. Series 2000 -- Amzoil Ams Oil
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03SXT,
A recent issue of Lubes-n-Greases a very well respected oil industry trade journal) had an article on the high mileage oils and Valvoline (holding 80% of the High Mileage Oil market) attributes them to "padding their bottom line quite nicely". They "DID NOT" mention the benefits of using such a product but they sure were pleased with the results of the marketing.
For very high mileage vehicles that have not been maintained well, or there is no way to determine how they were maintained, I might consider using these oils. I think the best thing about them is that they are thicker oils, so instead of being like most Xw-30 oils which are thin 30wts, these are on the high end. Perfect for aging engines. And the added esters do help a little bit. And, I do believe the high mileage oils are better if you want to do 5k mile drains instead of 3k, since they are usually "hydrocracked" oils, which have better protection qualities than regular conventional petroleum (dino).
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High mileage oils might be considered if you have an very high mileage engine that is demonstrating problems. It appears that many owners are going to "high mileage" oils for no reason other then they have a high mileage engine ... whether or not their engines are demonstrating problems.
Most "high mileage" oils are just basic conventional oils that are formulated a bit on the thicker side of their respective viscosities, plus they add about 10% esters in the base oil for their slight seal swelling effect (which is very very minor I must add).
Some people are switching if their vehicles are consuming oil. The main reason people see reduced oil consumption (using high mileage oil) is due to their thicker viscosity.
Most of these oils appear to be marketing gimmicks. I am not saying they are "bad" oils ... just gimmicks.
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Synthetic and Non-Synthetic Differences
The major difference synthetics perform longer than petroleum oil is heat tolerance. Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 degrees F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption.
Today’s engines are expected to put out more power from a smaller size and with less oil than engines of the past. Therefore, the engines run much hotter than they used to. That puts an increased burden on the oil.
Even the best petroleum oils will have flash points only as high as 375 and 420 degrees F. For today’s hot running engines, this may not be nearly enough protection. Just about any synthetic you come across will have a flash point over 430 degrees. High quality synthetics can have flash points over 450 degrees (Every AMSOIL synthetic oil has a flash point of over 450 degrees F with some exceeding 475 degrees). As a result, you will see little noticeable breakdown due to burn-off.
Just as important is the way in which petroleum and synthetic oils burn off. As a refined product, petroleum oils molecules are of varying sizes. Thus, as a petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off. Since the ash content in most petroleum oils is very high, deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine. In addition, as smaller particles burn off, the larger, heavier molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. Unfortunately, these larger particles do not flow nearly as well and tend to blanket the components of your engine which only exacerbates the heat problem.
Synthetic oils, because they are not purified, but rather designed specifically from the ground up for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if a synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off.
There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. Moreover, many synthetics, have very low ash content. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there is little or no ash left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces. Obviously, this leads to a cleaner burning, more fuel efficient engine.
It is true that the additives in many oils begin breaking down after only a few thousand miles. What needs to be recognized is that there are different quality “grades” of additives just as there are different quality grades of just about any other product that you buy. There are also different combinations of additives that tend to work for better and for longer when combined than when used individually.
--------------------------------------------------
You can click the following link and Request a FREE Amsoil Cataolg and read about the differences a TRUE Synthetic can offer.
Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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black duece
Dodge Dakota
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6/27/2004
11:46:36
| RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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I run a synthetic in my race car. I got that "special" racing oil that valvoline came up with, and i gotta say that i like it. Though from the compounds it uses (at least from what i get by reading the back label here) they got more of somethings here and less of others, i think they formulated it to be thiner and run hotter (hot thin oil mean performace...and a crap load of money for worn out parts and frequent oil changes). But, i also think synthetics burn alittle bit more that regular oil, cause i gotta add alittle oil in my racecar after a few races during a night. But, thats your desicion to run synthetic...listem to the Amsoil guy...he knows what hes talking about, i just race.
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Gentle Man
Dodge Dakota
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6/28/2004
20:23:04
| RE: Changing to Synthetic oil!
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Thanks a lot Steve. Rally appreciate the info. I was way o buzy this weekend to do anything but I`ve defintly made up my mind. I`m gonna go with 10w30 though cause its an older engine. I think that would make sense. Does anyone know if there are any mods to the engine that work better or worse with synthetic oil?
Thanks again!!
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