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Critter
Dodge Dakota
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4/15/2004
20:41:10
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 Subject: Tune up f up
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Ok so today I got my MSD 6A for my dak. Replaced wires, rotor/cap, plugs, and guess what. Some how the plug in the hole closest to the front of the engine on the passanger side was out of reach of the plug wrench. All the others decided to come out with a little muscle... BUT NO!!! not that one, it is broken off, stuck and the metal heat sheild will not come off from the hole. WHY??!?!?!? It was supposed to only take an hour or two to install.... NO it took lots of swaring from me and my buddies and still didn't come out. We started this project at 4, we stopped when the sun went down around 8... no luck. Taking it to a mechanic in the morning. One plus it runs pritty good with the MSD, Blaster SS coil, 8mm wires, and Bosch platnums minus one cylinder. Any suggestions? Oh yeah we used a hammer.
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J and J Auto
GenII
4/15/2004
21:00:06
| RE: Tune up f up
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Any suggestions?
Yes if they are the +4 bosch get them out of there
Just use the plat tip bosch and gap between
.055 and .060 if you want to see any gains from
the MSD
Larry
J&J Auto
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another mark
Dodge Dakota
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4/15/2004
21:04:33
| RE: Tune up f up
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Wow, I'm suprised this happens to people. You can't just yank that heat shield off by hand or with pliers? Mine popped right off. As far as that broken plug, why not put some penetrating oil on it and let it sit a little bit before trying to loosen it. Some people said it actually helps if the engine is warm when trying to crack stubborn plugs.
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dak_99
Dodge Dakota
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4/15/2004
21:06:51
| RE: Tune up f up
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Those heat shield don't come out easy... I spent 6 hrs on one and 10 minutes on 2 others... and thats just the driverside... started in on the passenger side and said nope tough... I found that one of those "old" fashion hose clamps, small one, works really well at closing up those heat shield to allow one to work them loose... though it doesn't work well with all of them... Hope that help
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Critter
Dodge Dakota
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4/15/2004
21:07:18
| RE: Tune up f up
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ummmmmmm engine was warm..... sheild is rusted to engine, plires were used, every technique in the book, including every cuss word and then some.
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Critter
Dodge Dakota
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4/15/2004
21:09:30
| RE: Tune up f up
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No not +4's they were 6 bucks apeace... WTF mate. They are just platinums at .050. Like I said runs great even thoiugh one isn't in.
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another mark
Dodge Dakota
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4/16/2004
01:47:59
| RE: Tune up f up
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maybe they weld those things in now
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GB2000
GenIII
4/16/2004
07:55:14
| RE: Tune up f up
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Seemed pretty rigid when I was changing my plugs in my 98... I figured they were welded on. If they aren't and I can get em off, do I need em on there or will my engine heat not really hurt my plugs/plug wires or are they there specifically because it WILL?
Josh
Red 98 RC V6 2wd Single in/dual out exhaust (soon to be switched to a flowmaster 40 single in/dual out), s-bolt "mod", Edelbrock 10" round air cleaner w/ K&N air filter, removed rubber flap...and more to come
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slopehead
Dodge Dakota
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4/17/2004
06:38:28
| RE: Tune up f up
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another mark? if you use the warm engine plug change with aluminum heads sooner rather then later, you are gonna rip the aluminum head threads out. as far as the plug,, that one is the easiest to get at from that side. don't understand your problem.
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another mark
Dodge Dakota
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4/17/2004
19:03:45
| RE: Tune up f up
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hey slopehead, i agree with you, i've always told people to crack
plugs out on a cold engine and use penetrating oil, someone
else on here swears that having the engine warm helps break the
rust or corrosion that's going on and holding the plug in place
as far as those heat shields i think they're there just to help
protect the cheap factory wires from breaking down too much
from the manifolds
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another mark
Dodge Dakota
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4/17/2004
19:05:05
| RE: Tune up f up
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Message:
hey slopehead, i agree with you, i've always told people to crack
plugs out on a cold engine and use penetrating oil, someone
else on here swears that having the engine warm helps break the
rust or corrosion that's going on and holding the plug in place
as far as those heat shields i think they're there just to help
protect the cheap factory wires from breaking down too much
from the manifolds. considering how much resistance there
already is in the factory wires i guess it makes sense to have
heat shields around them since any heat the wires absorb near
the boot only furthers to increase its resistance
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Greg
Dodge Dakota
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4/17/2004
23:25:58
|  RE: Tune up f up
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I don't mean to be the one to point out the obvious here slopehead, but since when did the magnums have aluminum heads??? Always thought they were cast iron ://
I've personally always found it best to let the engine get hot then cut it off and let it sit till it cools down, then while still in the cooling process "not completely cooled off", start to take out the plugs... Seems to always work with this rutine :)) AND of course use a little penetrating lube in each hole on the really old engines and maybe even let them sit over night, then recrank and do the process in the morning or rather the next day... Ussually they'll come right out...
Since your plug is allready broke you can use just a standard deep well socket and a little longer bar to take out the old plug... The best way to get out the old rusted up heat shields is to take some vise grips and crimp down the metal until it caves in then turn while still locked and they should come right out after that... The worst one I've done, I had to grip down twice on it because it started slipping on the shield...
You can use some long or needle nose pliers to get out the broken up plug parts before trying to take the plug out so it doesn't fall down into the engine...
Hope this will help a little with your problem...
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Critter
Dodge Dakota
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4/18/2004
17:58:32
| RE: Tune up f up
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WEll I got the local shop to get it out. IT cost me another 60 bucks. The guy said it was one of the hardest things he had ever done. IT looks like he just cut it off and dremeled the remaining part out to get the plug out of ther. Thank you all for your input.
MODS: JBA Headers, Homebrew intake, Bosch platinum's, 8mm Taylor wires, MSD 6A for oddfiring engines, MSD Blaster SS coil, Flowmaster 40 Sereies single out.
Summer mods: 3inch Fabtech lift, 32" mudkings, 48mm or 46mm TB
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