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Josh
Dodge Dakota
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3/09/2004
16:18:15
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 Subject: Larry questions
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Message:
1. Hay larry i would like to port and polish my stock heads will this give me any HP please help
2. Also if i put a v8 throttle body on with that will it be a waste of time and money or a good investment.
3. One more and ill be through, how can i sqeeze every drop of HP out of my 3.9 with out dropping over 2000. bones
98' dak cc 3.9 5-speed 2-wheel drive
intake\K&N
exhast\Strait pipe( does this hurt my HP? if so i think i might go with a Borla or Dynamax your thought on this please)
Thanks Larry and everyone else who helps me
Josh
Kansas City
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Kurttb1
Dodge Dakota
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3/09/2004
20:53:53
|  RE: Larry questions
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Message:
Hey Larry, your getting very popular now adays!
I've got a question for you too!
I read the section about the timing chain & tensioner and expected to do it at some time, however my 3.9L magnum jumped time before I could get too it. I cut the engine off and it never started so I figured Tchain. I hope I was right since the Cam gear sprocket was so worn it was wearing into the top of the little mark. Before I took the cover off I marked the damper where it was. I then took the cover off and proceeded to check the chain and sprockets as I said the top one was worn to a frazzle. I tried to line up the little marks before taking off the chain and gears. When I put the little mark of the crank gear up in the center and looked for the little mark on the cam gear I found the mark on the Top of the gear instead of the bottom where it was supposed to be. I also noticed that no matter how hard I tried I could not get the mark to be centered down and the rotor point towards #1 Cylinder. I have figured that someone might have turned the distributor rotor at some point in time backwards and got it out 180 degrees because it everything is out 1/2. I was trying to figure out how the engine was running being out but evidently if you turn the cam gear 180 before putting the chain on then you get the dist back in sinc. I plan on taking the dist out and turning the shaft 180 where the rotor points to the #1 post when the gear mark is centered down. Do you see any problems with this?? Anyone else want to answer that's OK too. Kurt
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J-Man
Dodge Dakota
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3/09/2004
21:18:53
|  RE: Larry questions
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What you found was TDC, but not for the compression stroke. You should be able to turn the engine over a couple of times and there should eventually be a point where TDC lines up AND the rotor lines up with the mark. Try it out.
J-Man
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Kurttb1
Dodge Dakota
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3/09/2004
22:00:53
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
THANKS for your reply JMAN
I have the timing chain off completely so the crank is sitting near (not on) TDC and I'm just trying to find somepoint where when you turn the cam the dist rotor actually points to #1 and the dot on the cam gear actually points down towards the dot on the crank gear.
I figure I will be needing to take the valve cover off in order to find when the cam is going into the compression stroke. Someone said I could watch the intake valve of #1 move on the head and when it stopped I would be on TDC where both values have no pressure.
My cam gear which turns my rotor will not change it might have made a difference if the chain was on, but it's not.
I understand that My dots on my gears should line up in the center on the Chain and my rotor should be pointing towards #1 instead of #4 and my damper should line up at TDC on the scale on the timing cover. There is no amount of turning I can do to the CAM in order to make the rotor end up in another place they are geared together and as I said the Chain is not even on.
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/10/2004
11:33:44
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
yes get it at TDC comp stroke but be carful here
you can have it on exh stroke and both valves
will apear closed but are not.
turn untill you see the intake valve open and
close than bring it to TDC the key on the shaft
is also the 0 so you can just pop the timing
cover up there and line the key with 0 and you
will be close enough to line sprokits
crank mark up rotor aimed at #1 markes on sprokets
in straight line
Larry
J&J Auto
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/10/2004
11:38:46
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
sorrie Josh
cold air bigger TB and the 1.7's are a good bang
for the buck
V8 good
fastman better
F&B best
the fastman and F&B also offer low end gains over
the V8 where the low end will remain the same but
good mid and top end gains.
The harland and sharp 1.7's are under $300
contact John at sout east R/T
john@southeastrt.com
They offer a true bolt in no adjusting
Larry
J&J Auto
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Kurttb1
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/10/2004
22:02:24
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
Larry, I really appreciate your reply, what has me baffled the most is that I could rotate the cam gear till I was blue in face but no matter how much turning when I put the cam dot on 6 o'clock the rotor was at #4
Today I took the dist out and turned it 180 so that when I turned the cam sprocket the dot would be down and the rotor at #1 do you see any problems here if I put the crank at TDC with the crank gear at 12 oclock all lined up together?
This is what I don't understand the most how could the engine run when the cam gear dot always at 6 oclock always pointed the rotor to #4??
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/10/2004
23:27:05
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
It was right crank dot at 12 and cam dot at 12
The dots do not go togather
crank 12 cam 6, but 12 and 12 at TDC comp stroke
the way you have it now it will fire on exh stroke
just put it togather but turn the dist 180
either way if it pops turn the dist 180
Larry
J&J Auto
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Kurttb1
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/11/2004
02:36:19
|  RE: Larry questions
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Message:
Well, tomorrow I'll find out what is going to happen. I watched the valves the way you said and when the intake valve closes and then I turn the motor over to TDC I looked and behold my timing is back out 180 the same ole same ole except with the dist opposite, so I will probably go ahead and turn the dist back around before I try to crank it.
I was thinking of cranking with just timing cover and damper on just to see if it runs, what do you think?
What do you think the possibility is of having bend some rods or valves? I was trying to start when it died, and I only tried to start a few more times but did hear some knocking kinda so I may have screwed something else up.
Thanks Again, Kurt
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Josh
Dodge Dakota
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3/11/2004
13:17:24
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
HEY KURTTB1 WHY DIDNT YOU POST YOUR OWN QUESTION FOR LARRY I STILL DIDNT GET MY QUESTIONS ANSEWEREED. THANX MOPAR_FAN98
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Kurttb1
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/12/2004
05:27:51
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
Sorry Josh,
Didn't know this was a private area. Sounded like a good Forum since Larry seems to be quite a mechanic extraordinaire.
I think I've solved my problem so I let you have it,
Kurt
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GB2000
GenIII
3/12/2004
20:12:04
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
J and J Auto
GenII
3/10/2004
11:38:46
RE: Larry questions
IP: Logged
Message:
sorrie Josh
cold air bigger TB and the 1.7's are a good bang
for the buck
V8 good
fastman better
F&B best
the fastman and F&B also offer low end gains over
the V8 where the low end will remain the same but
good mid and top end gains.
The harland and sharp 1.7's are under $300
contact John at sout east R/T
john@southeastrt.com
They offer a true bolt in no adjusting
Larry
J&J Auto
---
This is a messageboard...if it relates, the message can be posted here. It's all publically available. If you wanna keep things personal, take it to email.
Josh
Red 98 RC V6 2wd Single in/dual out exhaust (soon to be switched to a flowmaster 40 single in/dual out), s-bolt "mod", Edelbrock 10" round air cleaner w/ K&N air filter, removed rubber flap...and more to come
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Kurttb1
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/15/2004
03:22:44
|  RE: Larry questions
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Message:
ROUGH IDLE 1997 Dodge Dakota 3.9L Magnum
Hi again Larry, I put the tensioner, timing chain, replaced valve cover gaskets, dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pvc, thermostat and everything else I could while I was in there.
The Truck actually cranked up
ran very rough and at first had to keep pumping or hold foot on gas pedal to keep truck running now it will idle most of the time itself.
High Rpm on road seem to be fine.
BUT, It wants to keep that rough idle and it wants to die when I come to a stop from a higher speed. The idle gets down to say 500 sometimes before it seems to come back up some and save itself other times it just dies completely.
Checked codes - no problems
Do you have any feelings about what could be wrong. Also will the computer fix reset the timing and the injector sync?
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/15/2004
15:08:53
| RE: Larry questions
IP: Logged
Message:
First be sure your wires are on right and none
arcing to ground
What plugs and gap did you use, I have seen new
plugs that were gaped to big or to small they
should also always be checked before install
fireing order 165432 clockwise rotation
6...5
4...3
2...1
FAN
Front of truck
The injector sync should be checked anytime you
replace the timing chain but that does not sound
like the prob here
Check all the vac lines to be sure you did not
acidently knock something off
Larry
J&J Auto
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Kurt Bresler
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/16/2004
14:15:24
|  RE: Larry questions
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Message:
ROUGH IDLE, COMPRESSION CHECK, VALVES, RODS, BENT?
1997 Dodge Dakota, 3.9L Magnum 2 wheel drive. Automatic
Hi Larry, Thanks Again,
I used AP 3924 Plugs with a gap of .045, Someone had been running Autolite 5224 running at .054 gap, I bought the truck last year and it has ran fine all this time until the timing chain.
I also nstalled new Wires, dist, rotor.
So far I have found 1 vacuum leak which was on the firewall where the little vacuum line comes off of the bigger one, this helped quite a bit, but did not eliminate the entire problem.
This engine seems to run better at times than at others, however the sound coming from the exhaust sounded funny so I decided I should bite the bullet and do a compression check.
My worst nightmare and fear has come-.
This is the results note: 1x = 1 comp stroke
All cylinders except #5 came out at from = 90 to 105 at 1x and 150 to 155 at 6x
#5 is from 15 to 25 lbs both times I checked it.
Back of Engine
#6 #5 = 25 lbs at 1 x25 lbs
#4 #3
#2 #1 all others 90-105 at 1 x
Front of Engine and 148 - 155 at 6x
THINGS are looking kind of Gloomy,
ANYWAY Looks like I have lost most of my compression in cyl 5,
Do you have any suggestions as to what I should do next??
Thanks again , Kurt
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Kurttb1
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/18/2004
01:35:53
|  RE: Larry questions
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Message:
Missing in Action, and not firing properly either, Bent Valves, Rods, Rough Idle, now in 100 pieces.
Well you Guys, I decided last night to dismantle the engine and check out the inside. I found that all of my exhaust push rods were bent and that at least one valve is not seating properly, I can't believe an engine can run as well as this one did and have all those bent valves?? Anyway heads are at the shop and I am now looking for some parts, like aluminum exhaust manifold bolts any ideas. Kurt
P.S. This is the first time I have ever took the heads off an engine, Is there anything special to know about what kind or brand of gasket would be the best or performance parts or local Advance discount Auto parts? All comments are appreciated
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Twin10
Dodge Dakota
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3/18/2004
12:54:11
| RE: Larry questions
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Message:
Hey Larry! Bought some 5224 Autolites for my'99 3.9 V6 Dak(63,000 Mi.).....Seems to run better but mpg is worse. Would using stock champion plug cure this? I haven't changed the wires or distributer either.
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