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Budysr
Dodge Dakota
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12/11/2003
10:54:58
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 Subject: Larry...
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A while back in a spark plug thread you talked about the 3923's and Modified engines, and the 24's being better for stock. I currently am running the 5224's but want to switch to the 3923's but I don't know if I'm far enough away from stock to benefit. I guess its not a real big deal to buy six and try them out, but with the iat, tps and 180 thermo mods and a K&N drop in, do you think I'm wasting my time trying the 23's?
I'm going to put a v8 TB on but haven't found one yet. Should I wait till then. I don't wanna waste my time with the plugs if its not gonna run better. (93 3.9)
Thanx for all the great advice
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J and J Auto
GenII
 
12/11/2003
18:13:52
| RE: Larry...
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All trucks react a little diff
Get the AP3923 and gap them .005 over factory
settings, the sligtly bigger flame front will
help with performance. AP not APP they are like
$0.70 more each, the lower resistance of the
platnium tip lets you open the gap and it helps
in these motors, I am running the AP3923 at .060
with my MSD setup and they make a noticeable diff
I have been doing this for a while now on
customers trucks and they always ask me how I got
it to run so well. The bigger flame front will
burn the gas faster and create more power
Yes with your currant mods I would give them a try
1 more free mod you can do is the crank sensor and
gain about 3 degrees advance on your timing you
will notice better low end and gas mileage the
most but it helps accros the entire rpm range.
I have probably done this to over 50 trucks
already and all ran much stronger, go back a page
or 2 in the archives here and you will see a few
post of people who just did the mod and loved
what it did for there trucks.
It does the same thing a jet chip does only $230
less, its free except for your time.
http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/timing.html
Larry
J&J Auto
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Budysr
Dodge Dakota
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12/11/2003
19:33:35
| RE: Larry...
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thanks for the help Larry.
I may try to do the cranksensor tomorrow. I read a thread on it and also the krc page. Is the sensor hard to get to? I'll be going in blind but I'm sure I'll figure it out. When you slot the holes, do you just use a drill? I guess this thing is on the passenger side, but is it closer to the firewall, or passenger side fender? Thanks again for the help
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J and J Auto
GenII
12/11/2003
19:53:18
| RE: Larry...
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On your 93 its not to bad the bolts are either 1/2
or 1/2 allen heads and it is on the pass side
behind the head right under the EGR tube on some
you need to unbolt the tube and just move it up a
little to get the sensor out and be sure to remove
the rubber grommet so it will move over
Down towards the oil filter is the way you want to
go.
Just go to the hardware store and buy a good round
rat file and file it, I use a milling machine but
everyone don't have one sitting in there shop.
slot them about 3/8 over from center of exsisting
hole
With a mill and lathe you can do just about
anything
On the G3's its a real pain they stuffed the motor
farther under the cowl
Larry
J&J Auto
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Wadak
Dodge Dakota
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12/12/2003
01:24:23
| RE: Larry...
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Larry, How about asking some of your customers about the increase in mileage they are seeing with the timing mod. I would be interested to knw what they are getting. Thanks.
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J and J Auto
GenII
12/12/2003
15:22:01
| RE: Larry...
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I don't have to ask them they all come back and
tell me about it. They love to come and peak at
the restoration jobs going on
B Body or No Body gotta love the old mopar mucle
cars
Most get a 1 to 2 mpg increase except the ones
who have lead feet they stay the same LOL
Its a great mod
Larry
J&J Auto
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Budysr
Dodge Dakota
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12/12/2003
16:39:06
| RE: Larry...
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Larry, I did the crank sensor mod today and mine was the molded plastic. I was able to drill out the metal bolt inserts but some of the plastic broke on me. With large washers I got the sensor back in with some movement down towards the oil filter(not sure if I got 3/8 but close anyway}. Now with this mod and the 180 thermo I put on 2 days ago I am idiling pretty low--around 450rpm or so. Is this ok maybe the PCM still adjusting. Should I do a reset? I am also getting a light clicking/rattle noise from the general area of the sensor. The rattle increases with throttle and reaches a point when driving that you can no longer hear it but you defenitly hear it at idle. Any idea what I may have done to trigger this noise? Thanks again for the advice. I think the low end is better but I guess I'll have to drive it some more to really tell
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J and J Auto
GenII
12/12/2003
19:21:49
| RE: Larry...
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Just be sure its not in there croked.
There is quite a bit of room in there it should
not hit anything
Did you unbolt the EGR tube posible bad gasket
a leak would cause a ticking type sound
Pull it out and take a look if its hitting
anything you will see marks on the sensor but
I have never seen one hit anything
It will take a few miles to tune itself in if
your idle is still goofy after 100 miles yes do a
reset start and let idle a few min than shut down
and restart and do not touch the gas at all do
it twice let idle shut down and restart
???
Larry
J&J Auto
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budysr
Dodge Dakota
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12/14/2003
13:32:41
| RE: Larry...
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It was in crooked--because the molded plastic was broken in the wrong places and when I tightened it down, the sensor shifted. Anyway I bought another sensor at Autozone and it had a metal bracket so that was worth the 33 bucks. Slotted it as much as I could and dropped it in. No problems now. I guess the old one was being "tapped" LOL Hey Larry----if you happen to read this.....I am now ideling around 500rpm, or somewhere close. What are these trucks supposed to idle at? It doesn't seem to be a problem--runs fine--doesn't sound rough at idle. Maybe my tach is off a bit? It doesn't sit right on 0 at shutoff--sits slightly above 0
I didn't do a reset but I have in the past and its always wound up ideling close to this anyway--maybe I didn't give the PCM a chance properly to relearn?
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J and J Auto
GenII
12/14/2003
17:53:00
| RE: Larry...
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Don't put to much faith in the factory guages
being acurate.
Mine changes all the time one day it will read
600 next day 750 its the tach. also sometimes in
cold weather it will stick o 2000 and not come
back down untill I rev over 2000
It will take a few hundred miles to adjust to the
new settings.
Oh ya a lot of the old sensors had the bushings
the replacements and on newer trucks the have the
steel ones and are much easyer to mod.
Larry
J&J Auto
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Gen II Geoff
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2003
00:40:04
| RE: Larry...
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budysr
When I hooked a scanner up to my '95 and looked at my engine speed it was idling at 800 rpms. my tach looked like it was around 500-550, so I wouldn't put much faith into what your tachometer says.
That makes me a bit curious how fast my engine turns at highway speeds now that I've got 3.90's in my diff. it shows 2300 at 75 mph.
Does anybody know what the temperature range is for the Gen II temp gages? Mine just has an 'OK' range with a bold line on either side of that. I put a 180 t stat in there a while ago and am just curious what temp it runs around.
Geoff
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J and J Auto
GenII
12/15/2003
10:48:54
| RE: Larry...
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The older guages with just the lines and no
markings like on my 95.
low end 160 middle 200 high 240
But as you and I just said they are not the most
acurate things around
Larry
J&J Auto
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Budysr
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2003
11:56:57
| RE: Larry...
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Mine runs just above the C on the guage whereas before with the 195 it was a third of the way from C. I kinda figured that none of the guages including the tach were totally accurate. Hell, the speedometer on mine is at least a good 5mph faster than what I'm doing and this is with the correct tire size too!
I can't complain though b/c this thing now runs like a scalded dog and I haven't even got a v8 body yet. Can't wait for that one though!
Thanx again Larry for the suggestion on the timing and plugs...
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