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jumperalex
Dodge Dakota
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10/15/2003
20:48:19
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 Subject: Draining rear axle
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Ok I know I know the answer to this. I was under there. I saw it. But DAMN IT I don't like the answer so I'm gonna ask. And yes I got a chiltons (1997-2000 for my 2003).
Is the only way to drain the oil out of the rear axle to break the seal on the cover? Am I somehow magically missing something?
And what is up with the RUBBER, vs threaded bolt, fill hole plug?
I need to change it because I plan to tow my motorcycle trailer with it and while I'm not usually a SLAVE to the manual I tend to take to heart their advice to run 85w-140 (thicker than factory fill) Synthetic.
Of course I did NOT pay $21/qt for the out-of-stock MOPAR fluid but instead picked up the $15/qt in stock Mobile 1 fluid at Checker. But that is a different story.
Anyone wanna tell me I missed something so I don't have to pull the cover, clean off the sealant, and close it back up?
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Jared
Dodge Dakota
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10/15/2003
22:01:41
| RE: Draining rear axle
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The only way to properly drain the rear axle is to pull the pan. Taking into account that the truck is a 2003 you should be able to back all the bolts off so that only one or two threads are holding the cover on and drain most of the fluid before removing the cover.
I would definatly remove the cover at this point and change the gasket otherwise you're asking for leaks.
If you drive the truck a few miles before you do this you should be able to drain more of the fluid before pulling the cover than if it were cold (whenever I change motor oil I try to do it when the motor is warm).
About the rubber plug. The vehicle I got rid of for my Dakota was a 1989 Dodge full size van. The plug was still holding at 14 years, so would'nt wory about it too much (the van is still on the road).
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Darryl
Dodge Dakota
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10/15/2003
22:39:03
| RE: Draining rear axle
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There is a MUCH easier way!
Buy a fluid exchange pump at your local parts store, (make sure it has a long rubber hose on the end).
Take off the rubber plug and fish the hose down to the bottom of the pumkin. Then suck out the old fluid (keep working the hose around the bottom of the pumkin to get it all).
You will get 95% of the old oil out without the mess or the rearend gasket leaks.
I have done this 2 times and it's the only way to fly, unless you like the feel of oil on your hands, arms, and drive way!
Darryl
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xmr
GenI
10/15/2003
22:44:09
| RE: Draining rear axle
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You can buy a transfer pump at Auto Zone and pump the fluid out of your differential then refill it with the Mobil 1. As new as your truck is it should not be a problem. The transfer pump is about 10 bucks or so and can be use to pump (siphon) gasoline, diesel, or other liquids also.
K&N drop in ,Dynomax, Superchip Tuner, 1.7 RR, F&B tb.
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Mr. Gasket
Dodge Dakota
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10/15/2003
23:41:05
| RE: Draining rear axle
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No gasket>>>RTV. Take out the 10 bolts, assuming you have an 8 1/4 rear end (1/2" head) and then use a wide flat screwdriver blade to pry the cover off. Just clean the flange on the cast iron center section and re-apply a layer of RTV on the cover to seal it. No need to scrape the RTV off the cover if it's still sealed, just clean the old RTV with isopropyl alcohol.
You can clean the guts of the diff with brake cleaner. Mop up the excess with a rag. Don't inhale under there or you'll kill brain cells.
I'll never figure out why it's so much trouble for the car makers to put a drain in the bottom of the differental housing.
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Shank
GenII
10/16/2003
00:18:52
| RE: Draining rear axle
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The transfer Pump is great except.....
There is a Round magnet on the center of your Diff cover that catches metallic pieces of wear & tear that needs to be cleaned to stay efficient.
EVERY diff cover I have pulled there has been an excessive amount of metallic "Sludge" built up on the magnet to the point it couldn't hold any more and there was more in the bottom of the pumpkin which required the brake cleaner treatment that Mr Gasket was referring to. I just let the Punkin Air Dry for a few hours to let all the brake cleaner evaporate before I re-assembled anything.
Oh yeah, and use generous amount of RTV sealant. As for the rubber plug, It's normal anf efficient.
Good Luck,
Shank
Next time a Honduh wants to race
Ask him how many sheets of plywood he can haul?
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Jumperalex
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2003
00:24:08
| RE: Draining rear axle
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Message:
[sigh] yeah that is all what I figured. I had thought about just siphoning it out too. But I'm an engineer AND a virgo. That means it is physically PAINFUL for me to do something that might even SMELL like not a complete job even if I KNOW damn well there is nothing wrong with it.
Oh well I guess that means removing the cover, spray it down with brake parts, and reseal it. Sounds like a job for tomorrow. I think my frustration was mostly from wanting to get it done tonight and I just didn't have the time as I had a meeting to go to.
Thanks guys I appreciate the responses.... even if they weren't what I wanted to hear ;-)
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scott
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2003
00:35:37
| RE: Draining rear axle
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is Mobil 1 a safe refill fluid for the rear diff? whats weights best for a 00 3.9 dak 255 gear?
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Jumperalex
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2003
10:36:39
| RE: Draining rear axle
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Factory Fill is 75w-90 non-synthetic. For towing they specify 75w-140 synthetic. Both GL-5 rated. They of course give you the MOPAR part number and recommend that; which is $21/qt
This is out of my 2003 3.9L manual. So unless something changed back there from 00 to 03 then your owners manual says the same thing.
But Mobile 1 is the right weight 75w-140, GL-5 spec'ed and synthetic. So there is no reason for it to not be ok. and at $15/qt I only feel a little raped, not gang raped.
If I weren't towing and using the 75w-140 I wuld be running Valvoline 75w-90 Durablend which is a semi-synth. It has been working very well for me in my Eagle Talon rear end that has been drag raced, road raced, driven for 117k miles and made several 400mile tows with 1000lb+ worth of stuff (motorcycle and gear) up Raton pass from NM to CO and then back in the summer.
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Darryl
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2003
11:14:45
| RE: Draining rear axle
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You could have also used Royal Purple 75w-90, which would lead to less metal shavings.
The best thing about a pump is, it's so quick and easy that I do it every 15,000 miles.
As for the metal shavings, that makes sense, but the first time I changed my lube (18,500 miles), I pulled the cover off and had no shavings on the cover.
So, I figure that by keeping the oil fresh by changing the rearend oil by more than twice as often as the manual says, I am limiting that problem.
Darryl
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Jumperalex
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2003
13:34:43
| RE: Draining rear axle
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I'm sure Royal Purple is decent stuff but if it is more $$$ than the Mobile 1 I got then it isn't worth it because I have not been convinced yet that ANY of the RP, AMSOIL, REDLINE, etc are actually better. But this boarders on a religious discussion that I'm not going to go into. we eah of our religion, we'll leave it at that.
That being said, Royal Purple is not readily available to me, and 75w-90 is not what I needed as the spec is 75w-140.
Oh and the only reason I chose Mobile 1 wa because it was the only full synth available. Otherwise I would have likely bought Valvoline, or even Dura Lube. Cause frankly I have used Duralube in my car since I bought it in 97 and it has done an amazing job holding together a tranny that is well known to have problems with even normal use no less abuse like I put it through.
But again, it is a religion :)
I do agree with you on the more frequent changes (more important IMO than getting that super special "superior oil") and once I have changed out from dino to synth I would consider using a pump. but for this first change I'm just gonna pull the cover. Though at 190 miles I doubt I have many shavings :-)
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RocketDak
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2003
21:58:51
| RE: Draining rear axle
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I did a rear axle (8.25)fluid change very recently. Found DC had used an RTV from hell as the sealant. Took almost 2 hours to clean cover and mating surface (it had oozed inside the gear housing when they sealed it). I put back a Felpro gasket (with axle RTV on one surface) and refilled with Royal Purple 75W-90. They make a 75W-140 and it is more expensive but it really quieted down the rear gears. Any quality synthetic will do. I can tell you that a pump will not let you inspect the gears or remove the crud from the bottom of the gear housing. Get a new rubber plug as well (about $5.00), makes a better seal - no leaks.
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Jumperalex
Dodge Dakota
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10/17/2003
00:42:50
| RE: Draining rear axle
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Message:
good info Rocket. Thanks.
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AmsoilSponsor
DakotaEnthusiast
10/17/2003
09:25:49
|  Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube
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..... or (heh heh) ... you could consider Amsoil Synthetic 75w-90 (Product Code TGR) at $9.20 retail (discounted price available for preferred customers).
_______________  _______________
--------------------------------------------------
Helpful Differential Recommendations:
Flush (drain) as much of the old fluid out.
Differential fluid capacity depends on ring gear and axle housing size.
Do not over/under fill differential. This could mean a capacity difference of a quart or more and may cause over heating problems. (See the owner’s manual for proper fill level)
AMSOIL gear oils are formulated with friction modifiers for limited slip differential applications. There is no need to add limited slip or additional additives.
After changing the differential fluid, drive the vehicle in 7 or 8 figure eight turns, so new lubricant can work its way into the axle assembly.
--------------------------------------------------
..... or Amsoil 75w-140 at $12.05 per quart retail.
_______________  _______________
--------------------------------------------------
Interested in requesting a FREE Amsoil Catalog, click on the link below.
Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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jerry
Dodge Dakota
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3/07/2004
07:51:18
| RE: Draining rear axle
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Message:
What amount of fluids do I need for 2003 3.9L V6?
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/07/2004
12:18:36
| RE: Draining rear axle
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Message:
They hold about 1.4 Qts so get 2
There is a new gasket avalible from the dealer
for the rears,
The front gasket on the 4X4 was not used just
silicon but some companies also make a gasket
for the front.
I am running the Amsoil in my rears and it does
help gas mileage
The rubber plug will seap oil if the vent line
is restricted or pluged its always a good idea to
check that vent line, it can also damage the axle
seals if this vent becomes pluged
Larry
J&J Auto
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Wadak
Dodge Dakota
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3/08/2004
00:32:25
| RE: Draining rear axle
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Message:
I run Amsoil in the differentials, transmissions, and engine of both my daks. I noticed smoother runs and more free-wheeling when letting off the throttle.
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