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Hmmmm
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/03/2003
12:46:15
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 Subject: RE: Turbo Basics
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Message:
Turning away work because of the make of the vehicle.
I guess you don't have an MBA?
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J and J Auto
GenII
 
10/03/2003
12:51:44
| RE: Turbo Basics
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Message:
What is MBA?
I don't turn away work its just people know that
we mostly deal in mopar and don't usualy bring us
chevys or fords to work on, we do get some but not
many
Larry
J&J Auto
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IntenseDak39
*GenIII*
10/03/2003
12:56:45
| RE: Turbo Basics
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Message:
Larry,
Congrats on the new shop!
If you get the correct size turbo, you can get away with just one.
awaiting big block install
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FazDak
GenII
10/03/2003
17:15:54
| RE: Turbo Basics
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Message:
MBA....big f'ing deal, I know 3 people with one and they are still living "day to day" money wise.
I don't have one and my family is VERY comfortable as I suspect Larry's is also.
I like what I'm doing and from Larry's post's he does also. Please don't try and insult him because you drive another brand, some of use are very loyal and dont even look at other brand's forum's.
Thx
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Boat Anchor
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/03/2003
17:44:56
| RE: Turbo Basics
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Message:
I'm not knocking education but an MBA is not as important when you are self employed like Larry. Most self employed people learn by the school of hard knocks anyway. If Larry is comfortable with his level of business and success why knock him? I am sure if we searched the Forbes 400 we could even find a billionaire without even a high school degree.
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Shank
GenII
10/03/2003
21:12:13
|  RE: Turbo Basics
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Message:
Whew! I'm glad I'm not the only 1 that was thinkin this crazy idea!
I talked with a guy in town that could CNC cut me a flange to match the exhaust gasket for $45. Then I went to the only muffler shop with a mandrel bender that would talk to me and he was in the range of $150 for 3 pipes!!!
My vision (Slighlty blurred at times) was coming off the #4 with a radius 90, coming off the #2 at the shortest route, coming off the #6 straight out, around to the front and hooking back. The way I pictured it from the front of the engine the #2 and #6 will be welded side by side with the #4 coming up on the bottom in a triangle type going into the collector that bolts to the turbo. the exit pipe would run straight down with a slight bend to hook back into the existing Y-Pipe. that should point the boost pipe directly at the TB giving me the most benefit by the shortest distance.
My THEORY behind this is the #6 fires 1st then #4 and then #2.... #4 exhaust would likely get there 1st then the #2 & #6 SHOULD arive at about the same time giving me boost then A BOOST.
I have a much coveted and highly dependable Garrett T3 that came off my '86 XR-7 Turbo coupe when I stripped it down to circle track car. It boasts a 12-16lb boost and should add 30-40Hp.
The '86 Garrett T3 didn't use an intercooler and curious why unless it was determined it was not needed.
My curiosity comes in how will this affect the exhaust scavenge effect. Bear with me on this.... If i have the restriction of the T/C on the right side of the engine and just a header on the Left, How will this affect the engine? Will it be off balanced from the exhaust and cause problems on the Crank? With 1 side of the engine flowing freely and the other restricted whats going to happen in the Y?
It sounds feasable and will look freakish under the hood, definately be different.
Just my 2c... or 7
Shank
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Shank
GenII
10/03/2003
21:13:48
|  RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
I also found these 2 sites that may help:
http://www.spiralmax.com
http://www.dallasturbo.com
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J and J Auto
GenII
10/06/2003
15:45:18
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
Well what ever the MBA is I don't have one sounds
like a business degree.
I know a lot of business owners that started with virtually
nothing not even a high school diploma that are very
successful, Hard work and the want to succeed is more
than any school can teach you
High school diploma, have one of those for all the
good it does me, 4 years automotive engineering
degree, have 1 of those to.
ASE Certified but who cares, I believe the only
way one can learn is by doing.
I don't live from pay check to pay check, my house
and cars and trucks are all paid for, I worked my
butt off to get where I am today, built a business
for 30 years and still going strong.
I am now retired but still have a 51% interest in
the business but if I were to just sit on my A$$
I would probably be dead in a few years so I still
love to play with motors and enjoy it.
Sometimes I don't even charge people when I work
on there trucks, just a labor of love keeps me
from going nuts sitting around doing nothing that
would just not be me.
The other 3 guys do all the restoration work on the
mopars, I just play with the trucks for something
to do and keep those guys in line LOL
Intense, I will be going to Arts yard this comming
Sat, he has a lot of turbos but don't know what I
want so I will go find one or 2
Larry
J&J Auto
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shank
GenII
10/06/2003
19:16:49
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
Larry, Can you visualize with me on this 1 or am out in left field by myself again?
You said you have a mandrel bender, Think you could come up with something like I described?
Let me know, It sounds like a challenging project.
Shank
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IntenseDak39
*GenIII*
10/06/2003
21:48:51
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
Larry,
if you are gonna go to a junkyard and pull a used turbo, make sure that it wasnt water cooled. If so, it probably has more rust inside than outside and probably cost more to rebuild.
400 BB * Crower .513/.513 290/300 cam * 452 heads * Double roller chain * Weiand TG Intake * MP windage tray * Comp Cams Valve Springs * Crane Pushrods * CAT 1.5 RR * MP Bolt set * MP Chrome Dipstick * MP Chrome Timing Cover * MP Wrinkle Valve Covers - modified * MP Electric Distributor Kit
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J and J Auto
GenII
10/07/2003
11:50:19
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
Shank,
Yes that was the plan to have a straight shot to
the TB.
My plan was 1 on each side but I gave it some
thought and came up with if I run 1 turbo to just
curl around from 1 side to the other Via a doubble
Y Pipe with both sides driving the turbo and than
running back to the exhaust.
I too wonder about only using 1 side to drive the
turbo.
That is why I wanted to switch sides on the
headers and run both to turbo but if there are
clearance probs this would be my next option
Not the best drawing but will give you an idea
with 2.5 pipes feeding the turbo from both sides
Larry
J&J Auto
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IntenseDak39
*GenIII*
10/07/2003
15:58:48
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
Larry,
you probably wouldnt want/need more than a 2" - 2.25" pipes feeding it... but will want a bigass pipe after the turbo. It will help keep the velocity of the air up going to the turbo
400 BB * Crower .513/.513 290/300 cam * 452 heads * Double roller chain * Weiand TG Intake * MP windage tray * Comp Cams Valve Springs * Crane Pushrods * CAT 1.5 RR * MP Bolt set * MP Chrome Dipstick * MP Chrome Timing Cover * MP Wrinkle Valve Covers - modified * MP Electric Distributor Kit
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J and J Auto
GenII
10/07/2003
17:36:16
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
2 or 2.25 ya your probably right and run it back
with what every the exit is on the turbo. 2 3/4
or 3.00 back to the exhaust
I went to Arts yard this morn and could not find
anything I could use. the only one that had
promise was to big off a 350 Cummins diesel
2.0 would give me more room to work with, looks
like I may have to invest in a new one but at
least I would know I have something good to
work with.
Have to contact turbonetics again they never got
back to me.
Larry
J&J Auto
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IntenseDak39
*GenIII*
10/07/2003
20:10:39
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
yeah they are kinda like that.
A good place to purchase the mandrel bend pipe pieces is www.jcwhitney.com
i think i paid between $6-8 a piece and most places want to charge about $20 a piece. And its good 16 ga stuff
400 BB * Crower .513/.513 290/300 cam * 452 heads * Double roller chain * Weiand TG Intake * MP windage tray * Comp Cams Valve Springs * Crane Pushrods * CAT 1.5 RR * MP Bolt set * MP Chrome Dipstick * MP Chrome Timing Cover * MP Wrinkle Valve Covers - modified * MP Electric Distributor Kit
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shank
GenII
10/07/2003
20:49:56
|  RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
AHHhhhh.... Now I see what youre talkin about.
I think that would cause alot of clearance problems, Not much space under the engine and that's alot of plumbing to run. I tried to picture a similar exhaust set-up on the drivers side but with the Brake booster and the steering rod it would get EXTREMELY cramped in there. Also with that much pipe I think you would be heating up your engine compartment and Oil Pan considerably.
I had the truck on the lift and I tried to imagine a turbo set-up after the Y but every design came up with either clearance or distance problems.
There was a post on here a while back with a sports car and a turbo on the rear. That looked impossible to get any benefit solely off the distance from the turbo to the engine it couldn't get any boost, by the time it spooled up it would have to pressurize 8 ft of pipe. Closer you can get your turbo to the intake the better you will get the full benefit from it.
Rut row, brain storm.... The T3 is a small turbo unit. I am curious if I can manufacture a bracket that will mount the turbo directly to the top of the TB? Without the Air Cleaner on the TB it would give me about 6" from top of TB to hood. Hmmmm.....
Back to your reversed manifold... have both sides coming up & over top of the engine meeting on top of the front of the Plenum, into the Turbo & exiting out into a single 3" that will hook straight into the Cat... Taking out the Y-Pipe completely. My System is a 3" thru the Cat,Glass-Packs and then Y out into a Pair of 2.25's then out each side. Would need a heatshield for the wiring harness that runs between the alternator/ A/c and the Plenum or a ceramic coating, possibly a heat wrap to keep from overheating the intake,A/C Unit & Wiring Harness.
This way I think there would still be clearance to hook a cold air intake up to the Air inlet port of the Turbo. Gonna hafta measure that out.
Now THAT would look GOOD!
just my 2c,
Shank
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J and J Auto
GenII
10/07/2003
21:02:01
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
Shank,
I had another thought and will check it out, I
have some old 318 and 273 exh manifolds laying
around somewhere that were actually center exist
on the pipes could cut part off pre heat and
nickel weld the end shut.
I will see if the bolt pattern is the same on the
newer heads, that would make it very easy to run
the pipes to a turbo and still have room to run
back to the exh.
I just need to locate them and see if they match
my stock V6 manifolds bolt pattern
Larry
J&J Auto
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Shank
GenII
10/11/2003
23:19:13
| RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
I think it would look wicked with a pair of 3" pipes coming up & over the front and meeting into a turbo and still thinkin you could come straight off the right side and down into the existing exhaust.
Did you check out my Porting "experiment" in the Porting Intake post?
Hoping my "vision" doesn't back-fire on me, I'm down to my last block. But I got 2 Sets of heads!
Laterz,
Shank
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lowerdblkdak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/12/2003
00:33:48
|  RE: Turbo Basics
IP: Logged
Message:
I like the drawing. just curious where you found a turbo that looks like that? :) I've made a similar set up on my dakota(haven't tested it yet) I used a set of new 360 headers I had lying around cut them to tiny bits and welded them back together. the inlet is on the siemese ports on both sides I have 2 garret t3 turbos off of turbo 2 shelby Z cars, passenger side turbo flipped upside down. Arn't you guys worried about a fuel system? Or some form of timing retard? I'm in the midddle of the same project and I haven't put them on until I figure out some form of fuel system. Any thoughs? I was thinking Greddy e-manage with additional injector and timing control
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