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dkota
Dodge Dakota
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8/01/2003
02:53:46
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 Subject: Oil drop
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Hi there i own a 1988 dakota sport 2wd auto 3.9. When i press on the brakes the oil presure drops. Sometimes the truck will even die on me. But only when i come to a stop does it drop or die. Any ideas anyone????
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
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8/01/2003
16:02:34
|  RE: Oil drop
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how many miles? changed oil & filter lately?
could be worn main or rod bearings or oil pump.
any ticking or knocking coming from engine when oil pressure drops?
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RaGuS
Dodge Dakota
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8/01/2003
17:47:38
| RE: Oil drop
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I have an 88 dak as well, mine does the same, but it never stalls, wen i put on the gas, it goes rite back up..
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dkota
Dodge Dakota
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8/01/2003
17:58:07
| RE: Oil drop
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no knocking or ticking at all. i had a oil change very recently. filter as well. If i switch to 10w 40 and add some honey oil will this help it? is there thinker oill out there?
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Joe
Dodge Dakota
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8/01/2003
20:17:56
| RE: Oil drop
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The brake master cylinder gets it power from the engine, in the form of vacuum or pressure I think. So when you hit the brakes, maybe the the brake booster pulls to much from the engine. I have no clue or have I ever dealt with this, but I was thinking today of how the brakes get their pressure. Maybe the line connecting the two is cracked and making the engine compensate by taking more (something?) from it and making it stumble.
But in no way would I think the engine oil would affect it, but then again, I dunno what Im talking about, just applying some logic.
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Shank
GenII
8/01/2003
22:36:29
| RE: Oil drop
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My Bro-In-Laws Ram 1500 V8 is doing same thing.
You could try to go the easy route and just replace the Oil Pump. Spend the extra $10 to get the High Flow & this MAY solve your problem.
On His truck we replaced the Oil Pump.
Still doing same thing.
We thought possible the Distributor to Oil Pump drive shaft was broken. We Pulled the Plenum and gave it a good cleaning since it was off and replaced the belly-pan gasket. It took a large pry-bar and leverage blocks to pull the Oil Pump shaft (It should have jiggled and slid right out), It was gooped up holding it in tight. When we got it out you could visually see it was bent. We replaced it and put everything back together.
Same problem, Just not as bad.
Somewhere on this board I read that Dodge had a Problem with the sleeve in the block that the Oil Pump driveshaft slides into. (Can't remember technical name, Oil Pump Intermediate Driveshaft sleeve?) This Drive shaft fits into the sleeve which wears out (It's Copper). When you replace it it is recommended that you get the Brass. I think the copper runs about $17, the brass is around $23. I can't remember if you have to tap it down from the top or tap it up from the bottom. Either way you have to pull the Oil Pan, Pump, Plenum Assembly (To See) and the Distributor. What happens is when the Oil get Hot & Thin you are loosing Oil pressure from the pump up along the walls between the shaft and sleeve. (You are supposed to have a small amount to keep it lubricated) When you engine suddenly drops from 2,000 Rpm pushing Hot thin Oil to 700 Rpm @ idle it no longer has the same viscosity it did when it was cold. If you ignore it it will only get worse.
the only thing you really have to watch out for is having the #1 Cyl set TDC & then you have a +/- 1 tooth variance on the drive gear line-up with the Camshaft to keep the distrubutor in the 5 Deg variance.
It's a Royal P.I.A, but it's a good way to get to know the "Guts" of your engine. Also a good chance to Clean your Plenum & TB, Change the Bellypan gasket and see how much sludge is built up on top of the block under the intake.
Common causes of failure:
1. $h1tty Oil (Penzoil)
2. Driving on $h1tty oil for too long between oil changes.
3. Cheap Oil Filters (Orange Fram's)
4. Fair wear & Tear.
My '93 Dak had 217,000 miles when I blew the engine but the most I ever saw the oil pressure drop was maybe 5 lbs. I also used good oil (Mobil 1), Good Filters (Fram TG or DG, depending on what I had planned for the next 6 months. Tough guard for Spring/Summer, Double Guard for Fall/Winter).
Grab a friend/buddy and a Chilton/Haynes manual and gonna take most of a day. No "Specialty" wrenches required. If I remember the tool list, sockets: 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 several different length extensions & ratchet. Just lots of turning bolts.
Parts List: Can of "Gunk" Engine Flush, High Capacity Oil Pump, Good Oil, Good Filter, Plenum Gasket Set (Both sides of Intake & Belly pan), big can of Carb or Brake cleaner (To clean your TB & Plenum), RTV Black sealant, Oil Pump Intermediate shaft, Oil Pump Drive Shaft. Oil Pan gasket (Blue Rubber) is re-usable unless it has been removed before and somebody used a sealant on it. Anybody else see anything I missed?
I recommend a good engine flush treatment before you drain the Oil to pull the pan off, whenever you pull the Intake you will see how much sludge is left behind.
On Second thought, try replacing the Oil Pump 1st. Check the old one closely. My Bro's had some Unknown Hard foreign object (Believe it was piece of a ring) sucked through the intake screen and run through the drive gear causing the bent shaft which also mangled the copper sleeve. If replacing the Oil pump doesn't work.... Re-Read and consider above. I'm waiting for me & him to get the same day off to tear his engine back down to replace the sleeve.
Good Luck & Have Fun :)
Shank
Oh yeah, If anybody lives in Central Tx I have access to a shop and could probably find a couple hours to help for a reasonable fee. Dealership will charge you $1,000+ for the above listed procedure.
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dkota
Dodge Dakota
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8/02/2003
01:08:59
| RE: Oil drop
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wow thank u guys so much for the info. I really apreciate all the info. Im going to switch to a thinker and better sythetic and better filter if that doest work im going to take sharks idea and clean up my engine
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slopehead
Dodge Dakota
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8/02/2003
18:00:06
| RE: Oil drop
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each symptom taken separetly.
the oil pressure drop thing is normal as the rpm increases so does the amount of oil flowing through the engine as the pump is just plain pumping more oil, as long as you maintain at least 10 lbs of pressure for every 1000 rpm you will be fine. when the engine slows down so does the oil flow so the pressure drops.
the stalling thing however is a totally other matter, and can include fuel pressure/fil;ter electronics,pcm, vacuum, or a number of other posibilities.
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Shank
GenII
8/03/2003
22:08:30
| RE: Oil drop
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My Oil pressure stays steady throughout the RPM Range.
It might quiver up a bit going from Idle to WOT and drop slightly when I let off of it quickly back to Idle.
If you just clean your engine you are risking losing more pressure than you are now, If your Oil pump is leaking it's only gonna get worse. If you clean your engine you risk causing/creating new leaks.
Good Luck,
Shank
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