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Big Ben
Dodge Dakota
10/09/2001
17:34:34
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 Subject: What is Best?
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Message:
I want to add a engine additive to my truck. But i have a problem. I dont know what is best, i have looked at Slick 50 and Z Max so far. I have used Slick 50 in the past, but i want to find something better. Please help. Thanks in advance. Big Ben
98 Dadge dakot V6
Flowmaster40
Airade intake
R/T 255/60/17 BFG Comp T/A
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FIJIGabe
Dodge Dakota
10/12/2001
01:47:44
|  RE: What is Best?
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you know, honestly, i wouldn't try either one. save the money and use a synthetic oil. they last longer and i think work better.
but those are just my $.02
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bernd
*GenIII*
10/12/2001
16:44:27
| RE: What is Best?
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Message:
Don't bother with those "Snake Oils". They just don't work and some are even worse for your engine (especially the ones with Teflon in them).
Change your oil on a regular basis with a quality oil (Synthetic or a higher quality "dino" oil) and you'll be fine.
I used Slick-50 many years ago only to find that it didn't work in my old BB Chevy. I had contacted Slick-50 and told them that I wanted my money back as there was no improvement in any test...after explaining to them that the motor was treated with Graphite, they stated "Slick-50 cannot adhere to any surface treated with Graphite...it's too slippery.". (Makes ya think there a for a second.) ;)
1997 Dodge Dakota SLT - V6
Supercharged @ 10# w/Nitrous
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TigerDak
Dodge Dakota
10/12/2001
20:08:14
| RE: What is Best?
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Oil additives are nothing but a marketing gimmick that prey upon those that dont do homework and tend to fall victim to whatever is read on the labels. Get yourself a high quality synthetic oil system and dont WASTE precious cash on those items.
Once upon a time I tried those products, and did not find any gains or benefits. In fact, I finally took everyone's advice and went with a high quality synthetic oil and did notice lots 'o gains. Much better performance!
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DavesKota
Dodge Dakota
10/13/2001
02:07:50
| RE: What is Best?
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Yeah back when I had a Wrangler, before my Kota, I tried adding Slick-50 to the oil, and for some reason after that my engine would not hold an idle. (it was the 2.5 4-banger dinosoar motor)
just my $.02
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Zaurusman
Dodge Dakota
10/13/2001
02:52:15
|  RE: What is Best?
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I tried the Z-Max... Didn't do a thing for performance (butt dyno) or their guaranteed mileage. Mebbe it works for others; I don't know. Doesn't do a darned thing for the 3.9 tho! If you want another 1.5 mpg, get the MSD SuperConductor wires @ $65 or so. Now THAT affected mpg, tho no other ignition change did (hi-volt coil, cap, rotor, AutoLite plugs that DID help pinging a tad).
Consumer Reports ran Slick-50 in lawnmower engines years ago. Drained the oil, ran the engines. The ones with Slick-50 bent pistons or the such; ones w/o additives outlived those. Spend $35 on an IAT Adjuster from Speedtweaks.net for next summer. And run synthetic oil, like Mobil 1 or comparable, still changing at 3K miles.
I'm egotistical, so I say my advice is worth $.03. Just because I'm an a$$, and a broke one at that...
--
Zaurusman
'98 RC Red Sport V6 5spd 3.21 15x8's
http://www.tiborsrealm.com/Dakota/Index.htm
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Big Ben
Dodge Dakota
10/13/2001
18:05:12
| RE: What is Best?
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Message:
Thanks for all the good info. I will stay away from that snake SH*T. OH yeah How much oil dose it take to fill my engine with oil. I lost the Owners Manual ( iam a stupid A$$). Again thanks
98 Dodge Dakota
Flowmaster 40
Airade intake
R/T 255/60/17 Comp T/A
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Burke
Dodge Dakota
10/16/2001
17:01:38
| RE: What is Best?
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4 to 4.5 quarts with filter
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bernd
*GenIII*
10/17/2001
00:13:01
| RE: What is Best?
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Message:
That would depend on the engine size...the 3.9L only takes 3.75 qts.
1997 Dodge Dakota SLT - V6
Supercharged @ 10# w/Nitrous
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ttttttttttttt
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/22/2003
21:22:42
| RE: What is Best?
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Message:
ttt
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Shank
GenII
7/22/2003
22:20:42
| RE: What is Best?
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Message:
I used Slick-50 when It 1st came out & when I told my uncle he took me back into the shop and showed me a 350 he tore down after it blew. Slick-50's main ingredient is paraffin (WAX!) and there were sludge deposits & gunk all over the top of the block. The paraffin had sealed up the oiling grooves in the Crank & Rod bearings causing lubrication failure. Quickly (i.e. IMMEDIATELY) I ran 2 bottles of engine flush & used Castrol Syntec after that.
I watched the Infomercials for motor-up doing the pressure and heat test & Pro-Long doing the race car with no oil pan or radiator running hard for 37 laps & did some research. I have used Pro-Long with great sucess in all 3 of my most recent vehicles. I even blame Pro-Long for saving 2 of my engines......
When I bought my Dak I did an Engine Flush followed by a Syntec Blend, 3k miles later I changes to Mobil-1 Synthetic and added a bottle of Pro-Long. About 6 months later I noticed whenever I stopped rapidly or rapidly accelerated I would lose Oil pressure but would come right back, I thought the Oil pump was going out, it already had 148k miles. In the following month I towed a 7200LB Trailer 600 miles for a roofing Job, went 4-Wheeling on the beach, Playing in the mud at the river & just regular HARD daily driving. I finally had my fun and 14k miles since my Oil Change I knew I should go ahead and do it, I pulled the Dipstick and it was dry....Totally dry. I had to add 4qts of Oil to fill it back up! I went ahead and changed the filter & My Oil pressure returned & everything went back to working right.
My lifters never rattled & the only thing that ever let me know I was low on oil was the loss of pressure at stop signs.
Even though I don't recommend doing this and I know it caused internal damage, but the engine held up. It later blew 3 rods out the oil pan 14 months later at 217,000 miles, but then again what more do you expect out of an original Used & Abused engine?
I had similar success with a similar story in my Ferd Taurus 3.0 DOHC. (Except for the towing, 4-Wheeling & Mud Play part :p)
Yes, I now check my fluids weekly.
Just my .02c, I will always add Pro-Long to all my vehicles.
Shank
If it don't work hit it with a hammer, Still don't werk? GET A BIGGER HAMMER!
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Corn
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/23/2003
11:44:47
|  RE: What is Best?
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Message:
I have used dura-lube in my '85 monster's(W100,11 in lift,38x15's) 318 after the rebuild. Put a new intake mani, moderate lift/high duration cam, headers, 3in exhaust, and a big predetor for aspiration. I waited until after the break in period like dura-lube suggests, then added it in at the first oil change. That was 287,000 miles ago, and she doesn't leak OR burn. I've been using it in my '97 dak which had 50,000 on it when I got hold of it. I now have 90,000 miles, and there is not a hint of my trusty 239 feeling tired. The dak has yet to prove anything, but the big truck has as I DAILY pound it (318) up to 55 and 5000rpm in first gear! I never did a r&p swap. I have relied on the strength of the mighty 318 to push the big meats. My point is that I consistantly beat on my 318, pushing it to the "R" limit.....there's not even any valve train noise yet, and at close to 300,000 miles, I'll stay using the dura-lube! And no, I don't have stock in the company-lol!
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Eggman
GenIII
7/23/2003
20:21:25
| RE: What is Best?
IP: Logged
Message:
I personally use Lucas oil treatment in my rides.
00'r.c,solar yellow 40 flo',160 stat ,trick flow phenolic tb. spacer,R.T. tailpipe,pro-flo air cleaner
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