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Rick
Dodge Dakota
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11/01/2002
16:31:39
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 Subject: engine trouble
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I have a 92 V-6 with some problems. The engine sputters right around 2200 RPM. It feels almost as if it's coming out of gear, the rpms drop and i hear a loud rattling noise. Then all of a sudden it kicks back in and it runs fine. It does this frequently and I've changed out everything from the coolant temperature sensor to the spark plugs, PCV, air filter etc... and its still giving me trouble. Almost seems like a hose is clogged or something like that. Anybody have any suggestions???
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Mark green92
Dodge Dakota
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11/01/2002
17:02:33
|  RE: engine trouble
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How many miles are on your engine? Have you had your distributor drive bushing replaced? This problem will act as a surge around interstate speeds. Remove your distributor cap and try to turn the rotor, if it moves more than 1/8 of an inch it could be the bushing.Search this site for other articles on this subject,it is a problem with the 92 magnums.
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Rick
Dodge Dakota
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11/01/2002
23:03:28
| RE: engine trouble
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it only has 76K miles
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NOSDART68
Dodge Dakota
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11/01/2002
23:51:13
| RE: engine trouble
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What is it with 92's and their problems? My 92 Dak has just about every problem as every body elses truck. Still haven't found the problem with the surging and stumbling yet.
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1Flamed92Dak
GenII
11/02/2002
10:01:19
| RE: engine trouble
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When the last time you cleaned your Throttle Body sounds like it might be your problem. Try that out first.
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Rick
Dodge Dakota
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11/02/2002
23:37:18
| RE: engine trouble
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Message:
how do i go about doing that??
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Mark green92
Dodge Dakota
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11/04/2002
15:01:51
| RE: engine trouble
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Throttle body cleaning 101… This can be done in the driveway in a few minutes. You will need a can of aerosol carb/throttle body cleaner, a shop rag or good paper towel, and some safety glasses. First, remove the air cleaner and look at the throttle body. If there is a carbon ring around the butterfly plates you are overdue for cleaning. It helps to vaporize any solvent by having the engine at normal operating temperature, but this can be a hazard to your skin, be careful. With the engine off, spray some cleaner on the throttle plates and use your rag to wipe away any dirt. Open the plates and spray just enough cleaner to remove deposits on the throttle bores and the backside of the plates. Wipe down the underside of the plates to remove any stubborn carbon deposits and make sure no parts of your rag/ paper towel fall into your intake. Use cleaner sparingly, if after 2-3oz are sprayed and it is not totally clean, close the plates and start the engine to burn off any cleaner, you do not want a puddle of liquid in the intake. You may have to stat it like a flooded carbureted vehicle. Next, the idle air control valve is located behind the throttle plates in the rectangular depression on the top of the throttle body. This valve has a direct effect on idle quality, dirty and it idles poorly. With the engine idling, shoot a few bursts into the depression (if you are trying to watch the spray and it splashes back, it will burn your eyes if you do not have safety glasses on) and the engine will stumble and should recover. You may have to manually open the throttle plates by the accelerator cable bracket to bring the engine to a high idle to keep the engine running during this process. It is also possible to remove the IAC valve for cleaning with the engine off and the electrical connector unplugged fist if it very dirty. If this doesn’t solve the problem, it is something else. This is a good preventative maintenance item to do during every oil change, just my 2 cents…
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NOSDART68
Dodge Dakota
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11/04/2002
17:43:43
| RE: engine trouble
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I found the problem. It was the coil. I would recommend changing yours because it worked for me.
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DakotaDan
*GenIII*
11/04/2002
18:10:00
| RE: engine trouble
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SpeedTweaks:
How to clean your Throttle Body:
Most people think that cleaning the throttle body requires a can of Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner and a quick "wash" of the bores. This may work, but only washes the dirt and cleaner down into your intake manifold where it can puddle up and break down the belly-pan gasket. Then, it also is pulled into the combustion chamber where is can foul up the spark plugs.
The proper way to clean your throttle body is to remove it from the engine (you'll need a small pan, some compressed air, and a new throttle body gasket for this procedure):
1. Remove your air hat from the throttle body
2. Disconnect the sensor connectors (TPS, MAP, and IAC)
3. Remove the four throttle body bolts
4. Lift the throttle body up and away from the intake manifold (place a rag over the manifold opening to prevent anything from falling inside)
5. Remove the three sensors (Do not drop them)
6. Remove the three screws for the throttle linkage (Not required...can be done with linkage attached)
7. Place the throttle body in a small pan and spray Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores, underside passages, and ports. Let soak for about a minute.
8. Clean the IAC Solenoid - Refer to "How to clean the IAC Solenoid"
9. Spray some more Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores and ports of the throttle body
10. Wipe clean with a lint free rag (baby diaper works well) and blow out all the ports with some compressed air (a small can from a electronics store works just fine).
11. Reinstall all sensors, then reinstall on your vehicle with a new Throttle Body gasket (don't forget to remove the rag)
Dan
"Can You Hear Me Now"........................................GOOD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Mark green92
Dodge Dakota
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11/05/2002
13:29:15
| RE: engine trouble
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Message:
Dan, thanks for the proper service, I was sharing what worked for me. My only support for the spray cleaners is that they help to remove egr carbon and pcv oil film from the intake runners.
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Mark green92
Dodge Dakota
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11/05/2002
13:42:34
| RE: engine trouble
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Message:
Rick, another symptom of the distributor drive bushing failing is that the rotor buttons will come apart prematurely. There was a tsb on the bushing problem but I don’t remember the details, in the advanced state it will wear the teeth off the intermediate shaft gear that drives the distributor and oil pump. If you have to do this repair it is also a good idea to upgrade your timing chain at the same time.
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rick
Dodge Dakota
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11/06/2002
14:52:04
| RE: engine trouble
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I've cleaned out the throttle body and all that. I haven't replaced the distributor or the rotor yet. I noticed some corrosion on one of the terminals, so I'm pretty sure the root of my problem is linked somewhere with that.
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ABurchett
Dodge Dakota
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12/16/2002
16:59:11
| RE: engine trouble
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My dakota (98) has been a little load on the clatter side lately and on Saturday something popped...literally. The "Clatter" increased about a hundred fold immediately. I promptly turned it back around and went directly home but the longer I drove it the worse it got. We thought a lifter may have collasped but when we pulled off the valve cover everything seems to be in perfect working order.
Any suggestions as to where to look next?
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Pistolero
Dodge Dakota
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12/17/2002
16:28:47
| RE: engine trouble
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Take the plugs out and disable the coil. Have someone spin the engine while someone else looks at the valves/rockers/pushrods to see if they're working OK, and to listen for the "clatter" outside the cab. If it's a lifter problem, you'll have to take off the intake manifold to get to them...a lifter might've frozen up and bent a pushrod or something, or maybe a rocker arm broke. I assume there's enough oil in the crankcase?
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ABurchett
Dodge Dakota
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12/17/2002
17:51:27
| RE: engine trouble
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We already unhooked everything and rotated the engine. Everything looks fine internally. What has me confused is that it never lost power. Yes the noise was deafening but the engine itself never stuttered, missed, or dropped. I also now detect an exhaust leak somewhere, not a lot but a distinct smell is there.
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Todd W
GenIII
12/17/2002
19:45:09
| RE: engine trouble
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Have you checked to see if your timing chain has stretched?
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ABurchett
Dodge Dakota
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12/18/2002
16:32:32
| RE: engine trouble
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I think that is the one thing that I haven't looked at yet.
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rudeman88
Dodge Dakota
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1/08/2003
08:31:06
|  RE: engine trouble
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my 94 has a v6 ad has been giving me problems. it quits while driving and dies totally. if you unplug the pick up coil then plug it back it the engine will run. the problem seems to be intermittent. any ideas??????
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bludakman
Dodge Dakota
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1/08/2003
18:19:28
| RE: engine trouble
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With all the noise and clatter and in at least one instance - poor/lack of power, has anyone thought to check the catalytic converter? Beat on it once and see (listen) if it rattles. It could be in pieces and momentarily restricting the exhaust.
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bludakman
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2003
18:05:50
| RE: engine trouble
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Another item to consider is the gasket between the intake manifold and the pan bolted to the bottom of it, if the rattling noise is actually pinging due to spark knock. Check for oil consumption, and here's a quick way to tell if the gasket is blown: engine running, remove vacuum hose from pcv valve and plug it. plug or cover the open hose fitting of the pcv valve. Now remove the breather hose from the air cleaner and put your thumb over the end of it. If pressure builds up and releases when you move your thumb - the gasket is probably ok. If vacuum forms and hose sticks to your thumb - the gasket is blown.
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Jimmy
Dodge Dakota
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1/10/2003
19:12:47
| RE: engine trouble
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i have a 93 dakota, it wouldnt idle, and kept dying, but if you could keep it running and got speed up to 55 60 it would run, when you slowed down or stopped it would die. Changed everything you can think of, even MAP sensor, twice, i can unplug the MAP sensor and it will idle i plug it back up and it wont.. HELP at my wits end
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max
Dodge Dakota
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1/10/2003
21:30:18
| RE: engine trouble
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I have an 87 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 at 137k. Have been having what seems to be fuel problems. When the weather is warm it runs fine. When cold it seems to flood when warming up. Also, when I'm excelerating, say up a hill it boggs down and shuts off. I had the card rebuilt, tune up, and yes all filters. What else could be my problem?
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JKnPA
Dodge Dakota
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1/11/2003
19:01:59
| RE: engine trouble
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I never owned a Dodge truck. Today I looked at a 96 Dakota Sport V6 3.9L with 70k miles. I heard a slight engine clicking sound at the belt drives. The dealer(former mechanic) told me it was an inherent problem with the timing chain.....he said it is common in all these engines. Is this true, or does this truck have an serious engine problem????
Will I have engine warranty on this truck if I buy it from him????? He said it has 108Kmile warranty still on this vehicle.
Any help would be appreciated.....
thanks....
john......
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Todd W
GenIII
1/12/2003
16:29:19
| RE: engine trouble
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Yes, the timing chains in these engines tend to stretch and start clicking on average around 60-70k miles from what I've seen here. Most people just replace the chain/gears with a better double-roller system. So yes, the chain is a known issue. However, I'd probally want to get independant confirmation, or get the dealer to replace the chain for you before you buy it. If it's starting to click, you should get it replaced.
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JKnPA
Dodge Dakota
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1/12/2003
18:35:08
| RE: engine trouble
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Todd.....
Thanks for the reply. It is not being sold by a Dodge dealer, the seller has a small business and does his own work. I think he is a former Dodge mechanic,now in his own business. He is having the catalytic converter replaced because the 'engine light" is on.....another problem.
Secondly.......if there is a 108k mile warranty on the engine, will a Dodge dealer honor that warranty, if I asked to have the 'timing chain' problem repaired???? I wouldn't ask this seller to replace it because the price seems right to me. But with used trucks, you never know what you have until until you spent time with it.
Good website........I also 'bookmarked" the "speedtweaks.net" mentioned earlier.
Thanks again.......
John............@PA
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CathysDakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/01/2003
14:25:32
|  RE: engine trouble
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'99 Dak runs good cold,but once engine gets up to operating temp.the oil pressure drops slowly down from 70lbs. to 30lbs. staying there even driving 70mph on the interstate.At that point, the truck has no pick-up going uphill on an overpass.HELP...PLEASE!!! Cathy
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CathysDakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/03/2003
12:10:35
|  RE: engine trouble
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Today,we removed the cat. conv.&hope this fixes the problem.Will let ya'll know if it improves the situation.I noticed on the web sitethe other day...Catalitic converters on DODGE products SUCK!!!!!!!!
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