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jkw
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
13:35:55
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 Subject: EGR
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Has any of you higher mileage guys ran into any problems with the EGR Valve? I've got a 94 with 182,000 miles and now I'm getting a fault code for the EGR System. Any ideas? I'd replace it, but it costs like $90. I just spent $60 on the o2 sensor.
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Jon
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
19:30:26
|  RE: EGR
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Message:
What code are you getting? There are like 20 different problems that can cause an EGR problem that have nothing to do with the valve. And if it is the valve it may have to be cleaned out, not replaced.
-Jon
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jkw
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
19:49:57
| RE: EGR
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Message:
Code is 32
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jkw
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
19:55:35
| RE: EGR
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One other note, the check engine light won't usually come on unless I drive on the highway at a steady speed. It usually won't come on driving around town. It seems to be just when I am cruising at a steady speed for a while.
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DWJ
Dodge Dakota
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3/27/2004
19:46:39
|  RE: EGR
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I am experiencing the same problem with 148,000 miles on my 1995 3.9 V6 A/T. I am also getting a 32 code reading. Can someone help?
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jason court
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
00:37:32
| RE: EGR
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Message:
I had a similar experience with a 97 F-150 I used to own - except it was reversed. It would run fine once it warmed up (or on the hightway), but at idle or when cold it would run like crap and give a check engine light. The EGR got fouled up with carbon and wouldn't operate correctly. You should be able to fix/simulate the problem by playing with the vacuum line to the valve actuator. If that does the trick, a new EGR is what the doctor ordered.
Otherwise...vacuum leak somewhere else perhaps?
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gchemist
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
21:36:07
| RE: EGR
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Have you removed the EGR valve and checked it? It may be sticking. Can try to clean it. Either way an EGR valve will have to be replaced soon or later. It's only a matter of time when heat takes its toll. Mine has about 180000 miles too. I get a stumble at idle sometimes. I'm starting with the EGR valve then moving to the sensors. Mostly for maitenance and hopefully keep this truck to see 200000+.
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/29/2004
06:35:38
| RE: EGR
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Message:
You can try this sometimes just dirt they act up
around 90 to 100,000 some make it 150,000
You can do a flow test first to see if the actual
valve is working ok by putting a vac line direct
to the valve and just suck on it while idling it
will open and slow or kill the motor go slow
Most of the trancducers you can take the bottom
off there is a rubber diaphram for exh pressure
size just be sure you get it back in right no leaks
While this is off blast out with carb cleaner
they get dirt in them. now blow gently with air
to dry out not 200lbs just light.
reinstall and test most will be ok
If not Checker Auto Parts America have the neihoff
brand for the older trucks for around $50
Larry
J&J Auto
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paco
Dodge Dakota
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3/31/2004
01:41:42
| RE: EGR
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i have a 94 and i have had that problem since winter of 97. i had about 68,000 miles on it when it went out and now it goes out every 4 to 10 months, im tired of buying them so often but the truck runs so good for 273,000 plus miles on it. what i have noticed is that if i cruise around it is more likely to turn on the check engine light rather than drive fast.
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ronald hall
Dodge Dakota
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3/31/2006
18:39:23
| RE: EGR
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i have a 1995 dodge dakota with 3.9 it wont idle.i checked the egr valveit works but there is a electric vacum switch that goes to the egr valve.i dont think its working would that make not idle.
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Scott C.
Dodge Dakota
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3/31/2006
21:39:46
| RE: EGR
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Message:
ronald hall your idle problem is not most likely not the EGR.... your problem is the IAC valve located on the throttle body... that controls your idle while your in park or in gear.... check that valve.... a stuck open EGR will idle out of gear pending how far its stuck open and will make it run like like crap if in gear... if wont run on start up and idle then ya got a bad IAC valve
Scott C.
Royal Auto
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