Dodge Dakota ForumDodge Dakota PhotosDodgeDakota.net Membership
  Forums   Forum Tools
23:42:13 - 12/19/2024

V6 Dakotas
FromMessage
ken
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

7/26/2002
15:56:26

Subject: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
Hi,
New to site. See a lot of posts from people willing to help each other out. I see a lot of talk about the autolite plugs. I want to put them in my 99 V6 2 wheel drive truck. What are the proper tools for the job? Is it easier to access the plugs from under the truck or from the top? Never tried to mess with my engine myself until now. I went to the dealer and was shocked at the prices they want to do maintenace. I have 34,000 miles now. Any suggestions would help.



intense99dak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

7/26/2002
16:27:25

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:

You'll want a spark plug socket (the larger one with the rubber inside the tip), a flex head ratchet, a 3" & a 6" extension, dielectric grease, a spark plug feeler gauge, pliers and either an air compressor or a can of compressed air like those for cleaning keyboards.

From the top of the engine, pull off a spark plug boot. Then grab the pliers and grab hold of the metal heat shield that surrounds the plug. With a twisting/pulling motion yank the shield off and throw it out. All it's good for is trapping dirt. Now take a small screwdriver, nail or something and scrape along beside where the plug meets the engine. The purpose is to loosen up all the dirst that the shield trapped there. Take the compressed air and blow out around the plug. You don't want any dirt falling into the engine.

Now it's time to remove the plug. If it's been a while or if your plugs are factory installed be ready for a wrestling match that might result in a broken plug (don't worry though). You might need a small pipe or something for leverage.

Once the plug is out take a new plug and gap it at 0.035 with the feeler gauge. Hand tighten it and then tighten a 1/4 turn with the ratchet. before installing the wire add a little dielectric grease in the boot. This will not only help when you take it off the next time, but will also keep any moisture out of it.

Do this 5 more times and you'll be all set.

Chuck Robbins
'99 IB Dakota Sport

Visit my site at intense99dak.com






forexfour
GenI
 Email User Profile


7/26/2002
16:43:52

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
Great info. I did not know that the heat shields could be pulled out. I tried but not very hard since I did not want to tear anything up. Can of air, Duh! I had sand in the plug area from the dunes and I tried my heavy duty shop vacuum and it helped.
Next change I am pulling the sheilds out.

FXF

Never late for a Tee time or wheelin with my buddies! Always ready for both!!! FourXFour's Web site

98FlameRdDak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

7/26/2002
22:47:06

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
The heat shields can be removed? I wish I knew that when I tried to change the number 6 cylinder plug...anyone who has changed their own plugs know that the 6th cylinder is a real b****.

Okay, now that that has been said....how do you remove the heat shields and will it hurt the engine to leave them out?

Thanks

Mark.





Bobby Daniel
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

7/26/2002
22:52:25

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
I am changing my plug in the morning to 3923's now I will remove the shields as they are a pain. Thanks for the tips IntenseDAK and great looking truck.



JIM
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE


7/26/2002
22:53:41

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
A good idea is to put a SMALL amount of anti-seez on the threads of the plug. It makes it much easier to get them out.



Joe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

7/26/2002
23:17:32

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
first time I changed my plugs I just left #6 in (stupid stupid idea), because I didn't know the g-dang heat shields came off. When I changed them about two weeks ago I used some vice grips to rip them off, then when it came to changhing plugs it turned out that this socket I was using had a deal where I could fit another socket over the top of it, and that worked a hell of a lot easier than the flex rathcet was working.

-Joe
www.ragecomics.com



Cow
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE


7/27/2002
00:30:17

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
Just be cautious. I actually broke a plug in the head and i had to get my truck towed to the local dealer. I've had broken plugs before but this one actually broke where all that was left in the head was the threads of the plug. Everything else came out fine. They had to use an easy out to get the plug threads out... that was not a fun day.



kryp2nite
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE


7/27/2002
00:35:38

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
how many miles were on the plugs?


how many miles should the plugs be changed at?



ZoochT/A
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

7/27/2002
01:47:03

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
I left the shields on because my mechanic told me
I could use the socket inside them. Did use the socket with the rubber inside which helped. Only took me 15 minutes to do all of them but some were tight. Used a 3" only on the plug farthest in to the driver's side. Used a 6" only on the plug farthest toward the passenger side. Think I used both together on some of the others. Pre-gapped the plugs at .040 because the sticker under my '99 V6 4x4 Auto said .040. I've heard talk about the Autolite 3923's being shorter, but the Champion RC12LC4's that were in appeared the same size. The truck was running O.K. before I did the swap, but ran better after the change. I did experience some stuttering under heavy load in second before redline at first, but maybe it was the 87 octane? Ram Air effect of K&N to the front? Seems O.K. now.



ZoochT/A
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

7/27/2002
01:51:02

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
I left the shields on because my mechanic told me
I could use the socket inside them. Did use the socket with the rubber inside which helped. Only took me 15 minutes to do all of them but some were tight. Used a 3" only on the plug farthest in to the driver's side. Used a 6" only on the plug farthest toward the passenger side. Think I used both together on some of the others. Pre-gapped the plugs at .040 because the sticker under my '99 V6 4x4 Auto said .040. I've heard talk about the Autolite 3923's being shorter, but the Champion RC12LC4's that were in appeared the same size. The truck was running O.K. before I did the swap, but ran better after the change. I did experience some stuttering under heavy load in second before redline at first, but maybe it was the 87 octane? Ram Air effect of K&N to the front? Seems O.K. now.



Harvey
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

8/22/2002
19:23:10

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
I broke 5/6 of the old plugs, but did not break any during the installation. The previous e-mailers gave you good instruction. I keep my heat shields because I just like keeping whatever came with the truck.



AviTech
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

8/22/2002
20:52:19

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
Hey intense99dak,

What type of plugs do you recommend? The Autolites?



street guy
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE


8/23/2002
22:42:32

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
hey guys for those of you that don't have the resourses for an air compressor and think that 8 bucks is too much for some "canned air" try this, take a 2-3 foot length of small, 3/8 or less diameter rubber or plastic hose, and very carefully clean one end of it, after removing the plug wire on a selected cylinder, place the non-cleaned end down into the area around the plug before removing it, close your eyes, to keep the dust out, and give a hearty blow into the clean end. Cleans out the dust pretty good. Just be carefull and don't inhale.



ken
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

8/24/2002
15:10:07

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
Hey,
Its Ken again. I just went to Autozone to get the Autolite 3923 plugs. They don't stock them. Can these plugs be found easily at another parts store or do I have to go to some specialty speed shop?




LiveDakota
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

8/24/2002
16:07:25

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
Ken i got my 3923's from autozone. They dont stock them you have to ask them to order them. I went in and ordered my autolite platinum pro's and they were there the next morning. Try calling and see if they can special order them. Its no charge for you.



DakotaDan
*GenIII*
 Email User Profile


8/24/2002
16:34:29

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:


try

NAPA

or

WAL-MART

Dan

K&N FIPK # 57-1517 * DynoMax #17748
OEM 5.2/5.9 V8 TB #53032691AA * Crower 1.7 Roller Rockers # 73654K
Factory Flares * WeatherTechs * Saddleman Low Profile Tonneau

icemanKY
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

8/24/2002
16:48:49

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
i believe all walmart stores stock them.. atleast that's where i always get mine from seem to be a few cents cheaper there too



Ken
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
 Email

8/27/2002
21:33:23

RE: V6 plug change
IP: Logged

Message:
Wal-Mart had the 3923's. Went to Sears Hardware and picked up the flex head ratchet, 1.5", 3", 6", and 10" extensions (they come in a four pack for $20.00) and the 5/8" universal plug socket. Everything went well after that. I didn't break any plugs. They sure were in tight from the factory but I got them out without needing to use a pipe extension on the ratchet. I found that using the 10" and 3" extension together made it easy to get plug no. 6 out. Plug no. 5 came out easily using the 1.5" extension. The rest were easy. I left the heat shields alone. I blew the dirt and dust out of them first using the 1/8" plastic airline tubing suggested earlier in the post. The factory plugs were all consistently gapped close to 0.40. I have read earlier on this site that some people found them to be gapped differently. I expected to find the same but it was not the case. I used a four inch piece of plastic tubing with an inside dia.(7/16 maybe)small enough to fit snugly over the top of the new plugs by half an inch to get the threads started since the heat shields were in the way. After that, it didn't take long to tighten them with the ratchet. I picked up the NAPA cap and rotor yesterday and the MSD 8.5 mm Super Condutors were delivered to my local Autozone today. I can't wait to put this stuff on. Thanks to everyone who posted replies earlier in this thread. I'm sure it saved me a lot of pacing and cursing.



   P 1


Post a reply to this message:

Username Registration: Optional
All visitors are allowed to post messages


Name:
Email:
Notify me when I get a reply to my message:Yes  No

Icons:            

          

Subject:
Message:
 



Home | Forums | Members | Pictures | Contact Us

This site is in no way affiliated with Chrysler or any of its subsidiaries.