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A Person
Dodge Dakota
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3/03/2009
22:20:50
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 Subject: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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just bought a throttle body off of a wrecked dodge van with the 5.9L. Was going to put it on my 3.9L V6 dakota, and after talking with some people recently, talk came up about what else would happen as "side effects".
one major point was injectors would react differently, either by over use/under use. any suggestions?
Also, anyone else who has done this project before know about ANY other dilemmas that could/will happen?
My plan for installing it was cleaning the living **** out of it with carb-cleaner, putting new gaskets on it, connecting all the possible connections to it, and getting on my way.
2003 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 5 Speed 4x4
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/04/2009
08:40:50
|  RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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first, what year 5.9 did you get the TB off of? hopefully '96-up so it won't have the passage for the EGR on it since you don't have an EGR on your '03.
i did it on my '00 and have no ill effects. it will not "over/under" use your injectors. use the snesors off of your 3.9 TB since you know they work fine. only dilemna will be the throttle linkage. look good at the throttle connections on both. you can mod the linkage or change your throttle cable to one for a Dak w/ 5.9.
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
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3/04/2009
15:08:25
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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My truck is an 03 dakota v6 (blah blah)
The throttle body is off of a 1998 Dodge Van (not minivan...ew)
Have a feeling i'm gunna have to mod the throttle cable....any tips on how?
I also wanna have this set up so i can switch it back to the v6 one IF I HAVE TO
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dallavr6
Dodge Dakota
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3/06/2009
09:17:40
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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what is the benefit of doing this?
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mario
Dodge Dakota
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3/06/2009
11:25:34
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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the benefit to swapping the throttle bodies is both barrels are 2mm bigger allowing more airflow. the ones on a stock v6 TB are 48mm the 5.9 and or the 318 are 50mm. i did this mod and i do like it i noticed a slight increase in low end torque.
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
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3/19/2009
19:31:05
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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Hey anyone who's still hanging around in this thread.
Finally got around to swapping the throttle bodys (gaskets and such) and found out (the hard way) that i need a throttle cable that fits a 98 dodge ram-van, AND a dakota (2003)
Does anyone know where i can find a throttle cable thats NOT FROM A DEALERSHIP considering they want $50 for a 98 dakota V8 cable
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Jimmy9190
Dodge Dakota
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3/19/2009
21:01:19
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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I got my V8 throttle cable from the junk yard where I got my V8 TB. The donor truck for the TB was a Ram 1500 but was mising the cable. There was a Durango I guess from the same year model that had the right linkage connectors and it worked in my Dakota perfectly. The junk yard charged me 20 bucks for the cable and 65 for the TB.
I had tried to modify another V8 TB to match my existing cable and it didn't work right at all. Get the matching cable for your V8 TB and it should work fine.
Jimmy
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concertbb
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/20/2009
13:48:56
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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I got mine off a Jeep Cherokee, $10.
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
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3/20/2009
23:33:29
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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spent the day calling all my favorite junk yards....and then some. dakotas/durangos throttle cables are rare...and guess what one of the first things they cut when taking out the engine.
Are there any other options here? i really REALLY dont wanna throw $50.64 at dodge for a cable that's prob worth $10.95 to make
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Mike98
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/25/2009
17:02:18
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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I put a V8 throttle body on my 3.9 using the original (v6) cable. I drilled a hole in the V8 throttle body as near as possible to the original stud location, and added a ball stud there. The ball stud was maybe $12 (actually I got 4 in a kit). Used the one that was 0.249" dia.
The only issue has been that it is harder to get to WOT. I mean, that you have to put more pressure on the gas pedal, I guess the new stud location gives less mechanical advantage. But it is certainly good enough for me. If you're more mechanically inclined, you could put the new ball stud exactly where it would be on the V6 body. But my configuration has the advantage of compatibility - I could throw the V6 TB back in, since I didn't change the cable. Plus, I could put the V8 TB back onto a V8 engine, just by removing the ball stud I added.
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
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4/01/2009
20:12:52
|  RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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little bit worried here guys (and/or girls)...
I've got between 1/4 - 1/2 of a tank left (closer to 1/4) and i've only put 130 miles on that particular tank. if anything, this looks like a DECREASE in gas mileage.
I'm guessing that when i reset the PCM that it somehow messed with it knowing how much fuel was in the tank. its a guess with no facts to support it.
this stuff normal?
I drive this back and forth to my fire department, and usually i get a call and drive down there 'spirited' before the engine has a chance to warm up. not sure if that is a factor. i dont do this for every trip, but shuttling 2 miles is it's main job at the moment.
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Jimmy9190
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/01/2009
20:59:21
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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I never had to reset my PCM, it learned the new TB in about 150 miles. On my 3.9 the MPG actually increased by 3 or 4 MPG when I added a V8 TB. My truck runs great with it, but I also have a 180 degree thermostat and I cut out the front of the air cleaner housing to increase air flow though. I get about 21 or 22 MPG in town and a few better on the interstate when I can use the cruise control.
Not everyone who uses the V8 TB gets an increase in MPG, but 130 miles on a full tank indicates soemthing is wrong somewhere. Did you transfer the IAC, TPS and MAF sensors from your V6 TB to the V8 TB? Use the original ones because they are the same for a V8 and you can be sure the originals still work. You need to be sure the V8 TB is clean and use a new gasket when installing it. Clean the orifice and the little hole for the IAC pintle end well with TB/carb cleaner. Make sure the O-ring on the IAC is OK. Be sure the throttle plates open completely at WOT and the cable pulls correctly and lube the linkage points on the TB with spray silicone so they operate smoothly.
How was the MPG with the V6 TB? Most everyone including myself got better power with the V8 TB. I guess some people also myself included had a lower MPG at first because we couldn't keep our foot out of it because of the added power. But we didn't do it to increase MPG. It really sounds like there is a problem with yours somewhere.
Jimmy
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/01/2009
21:14:41
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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throttle body came from a 5.9L van. when i installed it i put a new set of gaskets on...that's it. did not swap all the sensors. i did clean the living crap out of it with carb cleaner though, and put in a throttle cable from a dodge ram (with a little bit of engineering)
I was originally getting 11-13mpg with the V6TB (13 is highway). might have to think outside the box if there's something else screwing with my mileage. truck has 134,000+ miles on it. (a 2003)
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Jimmy9190
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/01/2009
22:07:07
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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I'd say try transferring the original sensors and drive it a while, see if the MPG gets better. 13 MPG is bad. What plugs, wires, cap and rotor button are you using? When was the last tune up done? What type and weight of oil are you using? What brand of gas do you buy and do you use any kind of in-the-tank fuel system treatment/cleaner? I'd take a look at some of these things too to try to improve the MPG.
Jimmy
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
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4/01/2009
22:17:29
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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I recently bought this last march (a year ago). this is the info that i've been told...
Notes on the truck:
Motor oil 10W30 Quaker State next change due at 133,000 miles check level
mid way between oil changes, sometimes add a pint.
Oil filter Fram PH16 or equal
Differential lube and PTO next due at 144,000 miles
Engine coolant-Chrysler recommended (see manual) replaced 2006
Plugs/wires /distributor cap/fuel & air filters/serpentine belt replaced at
110-115,000 miles
Tires replaced at 105,000 miles
Spare tire is full size and new (original spare tire)
Jack is located behind passenger seat
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before i put the throttle body on, i put on a new water pump and serp belt in, so i'm good there. Oil was also done at 129,999ish miles.
Have not touched anything near the spark plugs. has that been killing me all along?
I also use reg WAWA gas. (10% moonshine *cough* i mean 'ethanol')
(tires are 2nd pair ever put on....still has 80% life left on THE ORIGINAL brakes. low maintenance? :-P )
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/01/2009
22:22:27
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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tire pressure and alignment will affect mileage. could it be maybe you're leadfooting it a little more since you installed that v8 TB?
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
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4/01/2009
22:28:43
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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Tire pressure and alignment are perfect. (tires may even be 36pps in) And i'm not leadfooting it more than i did in the past (fire calls is about it). I even try to shift before that d#mn shift light comes on. pretty sure it's not operator error.
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Jimmy9190
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/01/2009
23:48:45
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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If the plugs have never been changed I'd start there. Autolite 3923's work very well in the 3.9, so does the NGK equivalent, I think it's the NGK FR5F. There's no need for a more expensive platinum/plutonium/kryptonite/whatever plug in the 3.9. Copper plugs work best in the 3.9.
It sounds like the truck is well taken care of. But I will tell you what works for me. I normally use 3923's but am running a set of FR5F NGK's now because I had them left over from a couple years ago when I was trying different brands of new plugs to get rid of ping in my engine. I change my plugs every 20,000 miles, which is about once a year and I change out the plug wires every 40,000 or every other year. I use the Belden premium set from Napa which gives a good hot spark with 3923's or NGK's. I use the Napa part # MO 28 and MO 26 cap and rotor with the brass contacts to help get a better spark and more volts to the plugs. I change plugs, cap and rotor every 20K. I also remove my TB and clean it and lube all the pivot points at every 20K.
I only burn Chevron gas and occasionally will use Sunoco, and every 6,000 miles I add in a bottle of Regane fuel system treatment, the one in the clear bottle. It is one of the few cleaners in a bottle that actually work. If you are using the WalMart brand gas, Regane would definitely help. Cheap gas is not good for MPG. Gas is gas, but what matters is the additives that are, or in some cases are not present in it. Chevron Techron Concentrate (not the Chevron fuel cleaner fluid, you need the concentrate) and Redline both work well too. Regane has one of the highest concentrations of a chemical compound called PEA, which is the best for cleaning the fuel injectors, valves, and the combustion chambers.
Your truck might also benefit from a forced induction cleaning service like BG or Ever-Wear. Then use Regane or a similar cleaner every 5 or 6K. If you don't want to pay for an induction cleaning, some say Sea Foam sucked in thru a vacuum line works well. I used it once, never saw any benefit from it. I then had an Ever Wear fuel induction treatment done and it blew a huge cloud of black crap out the tail pipe for 3 city blocks. I had an instant improvement in power and MPG after that. Regane every 5K keeps everything clean now. STP, Lucas, and the other fuel cleaners are mostly kerosene and don't provide much real benefit.
It helped my MPG when I installed the 180 degree thermostat. Some have said it turned their truck into a gas pig, but it really did help my truck on MPG and it seems to have helped on the butt-dyno too. It also helped when I removed the air intake snorkel and cut out a larger opening in the front of the air cleaner housing too. I just have to keep a closer eye on the condition of the air filter than before.
I won't disparage your choice of oil and filter. I will say that I get better MPG and power from using Valvoline Maxlife 10W30. I have 106,000 miles now and have been using it since 65,000 and it works very well. It's a good strong robust semi-synthetic blend with some very beneficial additives. You can buy Napa High Mileage oil cheaper, and it's the same thing, bottled by Valvoline, only Valvoline says it has a lesser additive pack. All I know is I get the exact same wear and results with either one, and my truck migh burn maybe a quarter cup of oil in 3000 miles. Napa brand oil in the blue bottle is the same as Valvoline conventional. I run a Napa ProSelect 21085 oil filter, which is made by Wix, to Napa's specs. Wix is a great filter, built like a tank. To me it's not worth it to spend 7 bucks on a Napa Gold. The filter mounts at a good angle on the 3.9 so there's no need for a silicon anti-drainback valve like on a Napa Gold, and the filter media in the ProSelect works just fine while providing a great balance of flow and filtration. You can buy Napa Gold's a lot cheaper online at www.fleetfilter.com, but I don't see the need for that for myself. ProSelect works fine for me and I change the oil and filter on a very strict 3000 mile interval.
Tire brands can affect MPG too, but I don't know much about that. I have a new set of Firestone Destination LE's and they run quiet and smooth and have no noticeable effect on my truck's MPG. Before those I had a real expensive set of Michelin LTX's that ran real well too. I keep the air pressure at 35 and rotate tires at every oil change. I keep the alignment in spec too.
Above all else, I drive intelligently, some might say I drive like an old man. No hotrod starts, keep it at or close to the speed limit. I don't much get over 60 mph and set the cruise on 70 to maybe 73 on the interstate. You may have to go faster to get to the fire house when you need to.
These are some things that have worked for me. Some of it may help you too.
Jimmy
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A Person
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/02/2009
23:36:00
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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what are the best bang for the buck plugs and wires and cap that i can get at autozone or pepboys? I'm also a struggling student so money doesnt exactly grow on trees for me...
Best gap for 3.9?
Best bang for buck plug?
can i get away with just replacing the spark plugs and not wires and cap?
With the money going into this, i'm glad i got the truck cheap...
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Jimmy9190
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/03/2009
00:27:44
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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You can buy 3923's at Walmart for about a buck each. They sell them in packs of two, just be sure each pack has 2 of the little tips you have to screw on the ends of each plug. Sometimes they are shipped with the tips on and sometimes the tip is loose in the package.
3923's are one of the least expensive plugs there is. Even at AZ or Advance they still cost less than 2 bucks each. Pick up a 99 cent pack of anti-sieze and a 99 cent pack of dielectric grease at the counter. Anti-sieze on the plug threads will make it easier to remove them next time and the dielectric grease makes sure you have a good corrosion-free connection to the plug wire connector, plus they will also pull off easier at the next tune-up.
If you still have the original plug wires, cap and rotor, they really should be replaced-they are long overdue. You can use any plug wire you choose, but you get what you pay for. The cheap set at AZ I guess is about 20 bucks, the good ones at Napa cost about 35 bucks and have a larger gauge conductor and a lifetime warranty. Plus they are the exact length you need and have thicker and better insulation than cheaper wires. Belden wires work great. While you're at it, check the air filter and if you need a new one, you can get a ProSelect air filter at Napa for maybe 6 or 7 bucks. You can also get an air filter made by another manufacturer at Walmart, maybe for a little less money. The ProSelect air filter is also made by Wix and they work great. A dirty air filter will rob you of both power and MPG.
The cap and rotor button with brass contacts will not corrode as easily and will conduct more voltage with a better more reliable connection to the plugs and wires. The less expensive cap and rotor will work, but some have learned the hard way not to use cheap ignition parts. Personally, I like to replace my plugs in the morning with the engine dead cold after it sits overnight. I think it's easier to get the old plugs out and the new ones seated properly that way. Plus I don't burn myself on the exhaust manifolds or other hot parts.
The 3923 is the best bang for the buck plug, if you ask me. Gap to .035 on a stock ignition. The 3.9's run great with the 3923's. I know mine does. If you still have the original plugs in your engine, it may not exactly be easy to remove them. On the right side just remove the air cleaner box, hose and air hat to get better access to the plugs. On mine I use a long piece of stiff wire to hold the heater hoses up out of the way on the left side. You need a 10" 3/8ths extension and ratchet and patience to get a couple of the plugs from the back side of the engine out. Blow the trash out of the heat shields with a can of compressed air before unscrewing the plugs, so the dirt and trash don't fall down in the cylinder when the plugs come out. A Haynes book would also help if you don't have one. If you can't afford a Haynes book, maybe your local library might have one. Or at least maybe your parts store has one open on the shelf you can just read in the store for free.
From what you described, just a new set of plugs, wires, cap and rotor may work wonders for your MPG. The money you spend on a good tune-up will be returned many times with increased MPG and better power and driveability. Plus you get the satisfaction of taking good care of your truck and not having to pay someone else to do it.
Jimmy
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Mike98
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
4/03/2009
13:18:48
| RE: 3.9L throttle body to 5.9L throttle body
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Another cause of poor fuel mileage can just be that your engine is worn out. When I bought my truck with maybe 100k miles, I got great mileage. Logged 24mpg on an 800 mile trip. But now that I'm at 150k I'm lucky to get 16mpg, usually more like 14. I've pretty much tried everything and given up. Plugs, wires, dist. cap, thermostat, synthetics, tires, alignment, O2 sensors, filters, throttle body, roller rockers, injector sync, fuel cleaners, ... Still very poor mileage - not one thing has really helped.
So I'd suggest a compression test first, before trying too hard to get great mileage out of an old engine. Mine still drives great, but I don't think it will ever get back to 20+ mpg without some serious work. I have borderline poor compression on a few of the cylinders.
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