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ConcreteJoe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/16/2008
21:00:08
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 Subject: Cam Replacement
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I may be in over my head, but heck, isn't the first time. I ordered me a new Cam, timing chain,water pump, figured might as well, it's gotta come off anyway (140,000 miles). I hope everything I need to do the job (tools included). How hard is this really to do? I can afford to take the truck down for a spell.
2002,4X4, 5 speed.
Still working on getting a price on the heads, and springs. I'm going to do those too. Already did the intake and TB.
Hughes Engines Stage 1 Intake, ordered Hughes Cam HER9204AL-V6
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dakota49
Gen I
 
9/17/2008
21:58:50
|  RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
Joe, if you change the cam in the engine it takes a little work, like removing the radiator, and air conditioning , and the grill. Be prepard to have the air conditioning recharged (if its working now) You will need to remove the intake manifold, the valve covers, rocker arms and push rods. then the lifters will have to come out. and the oil pump/dist. drive shaft will havbe to come out as well. One thing, on the oil pump/dist. drive gear, it needs to go back in exactly as it comes out or your fuel injector timing will be off.If you have a Hanes manual, it will show where and how the gear needs to be.
If you don't have a repair manual I would suggest you get one before yopu start.
Good Luck
Dakota49
1988 3.9 4X4 5speed
dakota49
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J and J Auto
GenII
9/18/2008
01:39:04
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
The dist oil drive does not need to be pulled
out to change the cam
When you take it apart have it on TDC and mark
the location of the dist and rotor and put it back
the same way and than reset the injector sync
What ever chain you decide to use also either
from chrysler, hughes engines or summit get the
chain tensioner
For some reason when the V6 was machined the cam
sit .050 closer to the crank and they will be
slopy even with a new chain
As long as your going this far I would recomend
a true roller chain the cloyes true street roller
is around $50 with over size .250 seamless rollers
one hell of a chain for the price also has +- 4
degree keyways with a set of offset keys you
can virtualt set the cam right on the money but
go 1 degree more because the chain initial streach
will back you off 1 degree
Advancing a cam helps low end retarding helps top
end depending on what your looking to gain I found
that advancing 1 or 2 degrees also will help gas
mileage on the V6
I am pulling 24.4 right now
fed mogal cam 196/205 112/112 with the 1.7's a
.460 lift with the degree wheel it comes out
to just about 200/210 center line is at 111
A stock cam is 190/198 .432 114/110 I have been
setting these at 112 after the initial chain
streach about 113
The offset mag key set is around $40 offset of 1
to 5 degrees either way
Larry
J&J Auto
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ConcreteJoe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/18/2008
10:08:33
| RE: Cam Replacement
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I realize the labor with getting everything out of the way, I'm replacing the heads as well.I have a book. Just getting that thing all lined up and proper makes me a little nervous.
Thanks Larry, Good Stuff to know.
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J and J Auto
GenII
9/21/2008
02:11:03
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
What I use is the liquid paper
You know the stuff a typest uses when they make a
mistake they white it out and retype
It works great for marking things even the marks
on the timing chain gears so you can see them in
the dark LOL
As long as when you take it out be sure its on TDC
compresion very easy to know with the valve covers
off you can see both valves are shut
mark it and put it back the same if you have to as
some do a piece of papaer with some simple
drawings and notes
When its at TDC just use something stationary like
the location of an intake manifold bolt
At TDC rotor aims at this bolt just simple things
like that and you will be fine
Larry
J&J Auto
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ConcreteJoe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/23/2008
17:15:18
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
Thanks Larry, I hope I may ask another question of you. Having 135,000 on the truck, adding the Hughes cam, with Hughes built heads. I already have the stage 1 intake. I'm starting to think of the bottom, I would hate to spend this money and time, and then the bottom fall out. I'm not very tech savvy, so I don't fully understand all the number crunching. I probably already know the correct answer, but with your knowledge do you think it's worth the try?
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/23/2008
23:14:55
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
joe, i would think that if you still have good oil pressure and no noise coming from the bottom end that you don't need to worry about it now unless your adding forced induction or nitrous. they're pretty stout from the factory
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J and J Auto
GenII
9/24/2008
00:38:26
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
As daddio said if your oil pressure is good and
no noise don't worrie the lower end on the V6
will handle 100 nitrious shot and 6 pounds of
boost stock
The lower end is very strong I have seen V6 motors
with 500,000 miles still running strong with good
oil pressure
I have 125,000 on mine and rev it 5000rpm on
a regular basis almost every time I drive it
If you ever plan on a s/c turbo or nitrious the
lower end can be made super strong just by having
some machine work done to the crank than you can
run the wider 318 rod and bearing also if you
do this you can run any after market I or H beam
rod for the 318
I have only seen like 3 V6's blow the lower end
but that was from poor maintainance
a hoter cam and raising the comp a little will
not effect it at all
Larry
J&J Auto
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ConcreteJoe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/24/2008
19:48:48
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
Thanks you two for your input, guess I'll leave the bottom alone, now I'll just sit back and wait for all the parts, then the time to it. May need some more help then. Thanks again, and good day.
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ConcreteJoe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
9/27/2008
17:15:33
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
Okay, looking at centerline on my cam card, card is for 1.6 rockers. I have 1.7's, I'm guessing I need to make a call.
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ConcreteJoe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/05/2008
20:26:23
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
I started this yesterday afternoon. spent yesterday tearing it down and getting everything out of the way.(really kinda nice, you can stand inside the engine compartment, no leaning).
I did not do the heads after all, bought the hughes recommended springs, and retainers. Replaced springs with new valve stem seals. pulled lifters, and replaced with new ones. re-installed roller rockers, replaced timing gears and chain, and slack adjuster. Installed new water pump. kinda where I'm at, I ran out of daylight. But no rush.
I have the intake on the bench to tear down and clean up, before re-installing. new TB gasket, put the FMS injectors back in, and so on.
I really don't know at this point what I was afraid of, seems to be going quite well. I don't have much time doing the week, but next weekend I should have her back together and running.
I can't wait to her her purr.
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J and J Auto
GenII
10/07/2008
00:54:14
| RE: Cam Replacement
IP: Logged
Message:
The centerline is checked with a degree wheel on
the crank and a dial indicater and a push rod
the rocker ratio will not change this
Just go straight up and you will be fine
Larry
J&J Auto
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ConcreteJoe
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/11/2008
11:54:21
|  RE: Cam Replacement
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Larry, Daddio,
Finished the project this morning, the distributor gear gave me a little trouble, I think I put it back in on the wrong stroke, pulled distributor out pulled the gear up and rotated it 180. Re-flashed the PCM, turned the key and she just sat there and purred. It actually gave me a woody, LOL.
First impression with the new cam, on the test drive. Seems to actually have more power with lower RPM's, that to me means more MPG. Have to give it a few miles for it to re-learn everything to be sure. The best I could get was 18 HWY, but then I have a heavy foot. Kinda toned the sound down too, but does have a nice sound at idle.
Thanks for your input and guidance on this project,It really wasn't that bad to do. I'll post new MPG in a few weeks if your interested.
And to you Dakota49, my air conditioner still works.
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/11/2008
12:54:06
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
give it a couple of tanks of gas before you really see any gains. that will be time for the cam to brak in and the PCM to learn what to do with. glad you found it wasn't near as difficult as you imagined.
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intensedak39
*GenIII*
10/11/2008
19:37:15
| RE: Cam Replacement
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Message:
yeah, that's the good thing about the V6's. there's enough room where you don't have to remove any of the a/c equipment. cam will slip in place with the condensor still bolted up.
even on the V8's you dont have to remove the condensor. just remove the front bumper, unbolt the condensor and swing it forward.. gives you plenty of room. i've done a couple on both V6's and V8s.
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