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22:36:41 - 12/19/2024
V6 Dakotas
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harry from ct
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/12/2008
22:46:23
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 Subject: RE: hyper mileing
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Message:
im getting a lot of mileage out of this post.....i just wish some of you will follow my leed........and get on the band wagon.....for all you auto trannys........you can put it in neutral on the hills...duh ..just dont hit reverse...let off the gas first ..duh...then put it in neutral...dont shut off the key ,,,just coast...and stop and really smell the roses...cool your foot..on hills make believe your gas pedal is an egg..yes a raw egg.....push the pedal without breaking the egg........im telling the whole dodge dakota forum to just slow down and smell the roses ..........you can do it......I DID>>> and im saving gas not the world..just gas....and please..if...you have nothing to say good just dont say it....ty
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Titanic Greed
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/13/2008
08:39:04
| RE: hyper mileing
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Message:
Connecticut ga$ STILL over $4 per gallon, as the greed and evil drive the U.S. economy to klug klug klug klug
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J and J Auto
GenII
 
8/17/2008
01:37:41
| RE: hyper mileing
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Message:
Speaking of eggs
For the older guys here they probably remember
this
Back in the 70's they put 4 little wheels on an
egg rolled it and crached it and it took a crash
better than most cars on the road
This was a TV comercial back than LOL
Bob your tack must be reading a little low
3.55 gears at 50mph should be 1600rpm
With my cruse at 60 it varies from 60 to 62mph
the rpm is on the tach 1800rpm but the scanner
will read 1750
The V6 just begains to enter its power and
torque band at 1600rpm
Bob how in the world can you lockup at 40mph the
computers are set from 45 to 48mph for lockup I
have mine set at 50mph
95 4x4
All synthetics
tonno cover
All mods and bolton's
hotter cam 196/205 @ .050 .460 lift
Jet stage 2 chip
When they were still reflashing the obd1 comps
I had the lockup set to 50mph and I have no rev
limiter
In the summer I get 22 to 24mpg combined all the
time
Winter combined 20 21mpg
For the most part I always drive the same there
are the ocations where I do drive like a nut down
to the floor 75 to 100mph than I can drop the
mileage in the summer to 19mpg losing about 5mpg
I beg to differ with harry from ct
telling people to do expensive mods they burn
more gas
That is just not true, the more efficiant you make
a motor the better the gas mileage
If you do these mods and lose mileage and power
there is something wrong with your truck, for some
reason your air fuel ratio is off and not
readjusting as it should most commonly the o2
sensor)s are bad
In a perfictly stock truck you can unplug the 02
sensor and it will trip a code but still run
fairly well from the stock default tables in the
computer
In a heavily modded truck it will run like pure
crap
A bad or lazy o2 in a stock truck is also not as
noticeable as it is in a modded truck
I drive as I always do amd am very happy with my
22 to 24mpg in my 4x4 at 70 75mph freeway I still
got 22.5mpg
From my observing the 3.9 V6 the best mileage is
at 1800 to 2000rpm 55 to 70mph above that it will
start to drop rather quickly
Back in 1997 98 coming back from a friends weding
in milwaukee around 80 degrees outside running the
A/C intermitantly doing 55 60mph with the traffic
I drove 200 miles and in antigo wisconsin I looked
at my nephew and told hime I think my gas guage
quit working so I pulled into a gas station and
filled up and the truck got 25.8mpg
The truck had like 30,000 miles on it was almost
3 years old and bone stock no tonno cove all conv
fluids
25.8mpg, and it never got it again to this day
the truck always got 17 to 19mpg in stock form
Now if I could figure out what went on that day
getting 25.8mpg
While I was in milwaukee I did fill with some
gas that had alcohal about half a tank than I
refilled again just before I hit the road to come
back to norther wisconsin
Did I get somee super fresh gas or what to this
day I still can not grasp what went on that day
With all the mods bolton's and syn fluids it
always gets between 22 to 24mpg summer now that
is down about 1/2mpg that I atribute to the hotter
cam because I used to get 24 24.8 with the stock
cam
So yes a hotter cam will hit mileage ever so
slightly
The motor has 125,000 miles uses no oil and I run
it over 5000rpm at least 2 or 3 times a month
there is absolutly no noise the motor is still
as solid as a rock
1 thing I might be causing the slight mileage lose
could be the clyes true oversized double roller
timing chain, i could just barly get this chain
in even with the tesioner pin in place and it
only has just over 1000 miles on it so its
probably a little tight yet
The stock chain I took out had 30,000 miles on it
and was just as tight as the day I put it in, the
tensioner rub block did not even have a scratch
in it I would say thats from running synthetics
When I put that chain in at 90,000 miles as I did
when I changed the cam I ran conv oil for aprox
1000 miles to help it seat in quicker castroil
GTX 10w30
When I rebuid any motor I always use castroil
and first change at 1000 miles than run it again
for 3000 miles and than I switch them over to syn
oil
The conv oil everything will seat faster
My nephew just bought an 08 honda car they
recomended first oil change at 3000 miles than
6000 mile after that and said in the manual the
motor will not be broke in and get its best fuel
economy untill it has 9 to 10,000 miles on it
because it was filed with syn oil at the factory
and the suprior lubricating quilitys requires
an extended brake in period
What does that tell you, Honda does a lot of
research not only for there street cars but they
also have factory racing teams and when they say
syn oils are superior they know what they are
talking about
So just don't take the words of us on this board
saying syn oils are better heres a factory saying
what most of us already know
But there are still the disbeleavers out there
Mods don't work HUM
I have a 1979 Lincoln Mark V 400 I bought last
fall it got like 15 to 16mpg
Well I did some engine mods, intake, compression
raised, built a set of headers with the 2.47
gears it now gets 22 23mpg high way this from a
16mpg army tank with only 69,000 org miles on the
car from AZ its just so nice for long trips and
don't break the bank driving it, The motor dynoed
at 375hp/450 torque on the egine dyno at the crank
stock rated at 180hp/320 torque
This car is all org including the paint looks like
it just drove off the show room floor, my old lady
even likes it says its the first sensible car I
ever bought LOL.
She loves to drive in it for once I did something
right LOL
All my other cars and trucks its more like
Now What Did You Buy That For LOL
oldladys sometimes you just don't know how ther
brains work LOL
I love all my vehicles the best ones are the ones
she will not even ride in LOL
Mods Don't work and use more gas THAT"S BULL
Larry
J&J Auto
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J and J Auto
GenII
8/17/2008
03:09:21
| RE: hyper mileing
IP: Logged
Message:
Hers another little test I do with my truck
On highway C its very level until you get about
a mile or 2 from town than you go down a little
hill with a littl uphil than down again than
back up to level roads.
With the cruse set at 60mph when I hit the first
little up incline I am out of lockup than back in
the down the next than hit the up incline and
I am out of lockup again
What this tells me is my truck is rolling free
because it will not unlock unless the throttle
is completly closed
These inclines are maybe 1 to 2 degrees very small
but enough that the throttle has to completly
shut down to keep the speed down
There is another like that with a corner just out
of town heading north that does the same thing
Just a brake draging ever so slightly and it would
not drop out of lockup, last year I did have to
replace both front calipers because 1 was starting
to stick just this little drag and I noticed it
and my gas mileage was down about 2 to 3 mpg
It does not take much to effect gas mileage
Another test I do is when leaving town I push the
gas pedal about aprox 1/8" and from the stop sign
to this little drop in the road if its running
like it should I will just hit 60 at the drop in
the road
So as you can see there are many little tests you
can do to check for drag or not running at its
peak
My shift points all gears shift at 2000rpm with
aprox 1/8" of throttle
1-2 20mph 2000rpm
2-3 30 32mph 2000rpm
3-O/D aprox 40mph 2000rpm
O/D lockup 50mph 2000rpm
This brings the motor up into the power band and
after it shifts its still there droping to around
1600rpm
The motors just begain to pickup power at 1600rpm
this is the begaining of the power band
Max torque is 3000 to 3400rpm, my max with the
cam and all the other work is at 34 to 3500rpm
Max HP comes in on a stock truck at 4400rpm
with just the 1.7 rollers that goes up to about
4500rpm
My max comes in right around 4650 4700rpm with
this cam
keeping the rpm in the power band will also use
less gas
Like the one who said keeping it under 2000rpm
does help
With my shift points set there my WOT
(wide open throttle) shifts are at 5200rpm
At 5200rpm because of the cleaned and polished
ports in the heads I only drop off about 20 25hp
at 5200rpm
A stock motor will begain to drop just over
4400rpm and at 4800rpm there is around a 30hp drop
If you ever noticed most dyno guys will not even
mesure below 2000rpm
I like to start at 1000 to 1200rpm than you can
see when your power starts to come on
The stock V6 will begain to make power around
1200rpm there is a slight increase 20 25hp at
1400rpm around 35 to 40 but at 1600 your over 50
hp from the base at 1000 rpm
If you had the time and equipment you can really
tweak a motor out either for power or gas mileage
Next summer I plan on installing a Perfict Power
SMT6 tunner on my dakota
This tunner can advance or retard the timing 20
degrees, fuel + or - 40% also will adjust sensor
deflextion ( how much change at a set point) can
alter engine temp, air temp at set points also
deflextion of o2 sensor and can read air fuel
ratio
This unit also records 3 min of data that you
can graph out on your laptop
You can change all this while your driving down
the road with your laptop. We use these on the
super charged and turbo charged cars and trucks.
The price for the tunner is $405 for a small fee
of $75 they will pre program it for your vehicle
and send you a wire diagram for instalation well
worth the $75
If you do not have this done you will need an
occiliscope to identify what wave forms your
sensors put out and program the tunner to read
your wave forms
Than I will try to figure out how I got that
25.8mpg that day back in 1997
I am going to tune it for fuel economy and begain
the agresive tunning around 2200 2500rpm this way
driving normal excellent fuel economy and when
you get on it abouve 2200 2500rpm nice predictible
performance
Once I figure it all out than I will be able to
tell you exactly what to do to get that incredible
gas mileage by just changing a few things around
and not having to buy a $500 tunner
I have never used the SMT6 on the V6 yet but
seeing the resaults I get on the V8;s is just
phonomanal
I don't know how much you know about fine tunning
the computer systems but any tunner will tell you
on a V8 motor there is 75 to 100 hp that can be
gained on almost every computer controled motor
out there on the street
I will give it the base tune on the dyno and than
make small changes on the road very small changes
like 1 or 2 degrees of timing 1 to 2% fuel
nothing big from the base dyno tune and than run
each change at least 200 miles to see what the
resaults are
As I said I never instaled one on the V6 but I
have it all planed for next april
This is going to be so much fun, I just find a
driver watch all the data under diff driving
conditions and make changes while driving down the
road me as the pass with my laptop
This laptop I am using right now is the very same
one I use for the tunners.
I have the RG4 and the SMT6 and 7 software, split
second and the holley and accel fuel injection
installed when The guys come around I just jump
in and hook up the cable.
Just so much fun to do after the base dyno setup
Here is one from mopar muscle magizine using the
superchips race icon timing computer its just to
bad they do not make these any more they wouldadvance or retard timing 20 degrees
Read the article
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/40639_adjust_ignition_timing/index.html
Larry
J&J Auto
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