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ccman
Dodge Dakota
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6/10/2008
01:47:13
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 Subject: spit and sputter
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Message:
I posted earlier but no reply. I have a 2002 3.9 5spd 2wd with almost 88,000 miles on it. It has not been running very well. It spits and sputters from start up even on 95 degree days. after you get on it real good a few times it goes away. after it's warm it won't do it. but it seems to lack power and it feels VERY weak now with this hot weather. It doesn't burn any oil. Getting average gas mileage. Plugs look good. I did replace the plugs anyways, also had some issues with the IAC motor so replaced it. Replaced IAT sensor, TPS sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, thermostat, rotor and cap, wires, battery. of course this wasn't all at once but over the last six months i'd say i did all this, new plugs just two weeks ago. No codes either. have not had fuel pressure checked either. it feels like it runs good, you know, like the idle and is smooth down the highway but try to acclerate like up hills and stuff, it goes but in it's own time. and if i run the AC, forget it man!! I ran seafoam a few months ago, seemed like it helped a little bit. only mods are flowmaster and K&N drop in with front elbow on air box removed. If i put the elbow back on i seem to loose some MPG. O2's could be to blame but MPG is average (20mpg) and plugs look normal. I've changed oil religiously every 3,000 miles. I've been good to this truck. can someone tell me from the sounds of it what they think is going on. I don't think it is carboned up and ii don't think the injectors are dirty either. i checked all vacuum lines with mighty vac and all good. what are some signs of timing chain?
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Epyon
Dodge Dakota
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6/10/2008
14:53:08
| RE: spit and sputter
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Message:
Well u should have the timing chain tensioner in your dak. But if the problem has come on suddenly i dout if its a timing chain
But hey im in the same boat my dak is doing the same thing
mine is a 1997 RC 3.9 5 speed and its doing the same thing ive tried all of the same stuff u have plus a fuel pressure test. Mine came back within specs but was bleeding down faster then i would like. The book says its within specs but J and J auto says no. Ive also noticed if u drive it hard when warmed up the motor will hesiate when u switch gears. So in my mind our problems are fuel
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ccman
Dodge Dakota
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6/11/2008
00:05:28
| RE: spit and sputter
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Message:
i did put the elbow back on the air box this weekend and it did help but i don't get quite as good MPG with it on. I have not had my fuel pressure checked yet. i was looking for a guage to buy to check myself but can't find one. I checked harbor frieght but they don't have any. i would think i can buy a guage for cheaper than it would cost labor wise to have someone else check and i want to be right there when they do it so they don't rip me off! trust no one!!! yes, i'm thinking the problem is in the fuel system somewhere. At 87,000 miles i can't help but wonder if the fuel filter/sock is clogged or dirty. i have heard you can get this as a seperate part now from mopar. is this true? one thing i did find a little while back. i put new valve cover gaskets on and pushed on the fuel line into the rail as i was lifting the valve cover off. gas started seeping out of the fitting that goes to the fuel rail. I made sure i didn't bend the line out of place and i did not. I slid the fitting back and forth a little and some more gas came out but then stopped. has not done it since. it was just a seeping kind of leak and not a squirting type. i could swear sometimes i smell raw fuel but i get out and check for wetness and nothing!
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Chris
Dodge Dakota
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6/12/2008
23:16:38
| RE: spit and sputter
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Message:
I'm going with injectors, you could have some gunk in your gas tank that is glogging them up. Piss anybody off lately that would pour sand in your tank? If you're running out of other options I'd suggest dropping the tank, draining it out through a seive and see if there is anything in there.
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J and J Auto
GenII
6/18/2008
01:52:33
| RE: spit and sputter
IP: Logged
Message:
read the shutters and stalls why post
I pray you do not have one of these problems
going on
It will make a grown man cry and if your hair is
not gray yet it will be if you run up against
a problem like this
Most shops will not even take the time but I do
and it sucks big time they will send you to
another shop and they will send you to a dealer
and they will tell you its fixed and never even
try and say there is nothing wrong its just normal
for thr truck to do that LOL
Larry
J&J Auto
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nd
Dodge Dakota
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6/28/2008
13:47:52
| RE: spit and sputter
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Message:
Hey i've been having a similar problem with my 2002 3.9L V6 for about a year now. I've replaced plugs, wires, fuel pump, and brought it in to a few different places, none of them can figure it out. I read a couple posts here and at a few other sites that seem to suggest the intake manifold gasket as the problem, saying that it heats up at a different rate than the metal around it, causing an air leak. I haven't tried to fix it yet, it seems kind of pricey for a shot in the dark, but maybe thats it. I've heard a lot of dakotas have this problem
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J and J Auto
GenII
6/29/2008
04:18:30
| RE: spit and sputter
IP: Logged
Message:
A pletium leak
it is bolted to the botom of the intake, its
made from steel and the intake is alm 1 expands
and contracts diferant from the other
A set of gaskets is like $35
TB gasket $1.25
1 tube black rtv silicon
small can or spray can of high tach gasket sealer
1 bypass hose and 2 clamps
1 injector o-ring kit for 5.0 mustang
remove the throttle body
remove fuel rail screws and slowly twist and
pull injectors out lift up and tie with string
or piece of wire, do the same with the wires
you do not need to remove the distribator
now drain down the rad, remove alt and a/c
and front mounting bracket there is a bolt
behind the center idler pully
now unbolt and remove intake claean all surfaces
while off use old gaskets and match the intake
to the gaskets with some little sanding drumbs
from the hardware store this will really help
flow,just intake head ports are fine
clean all sufaced real good spray or brush
plentium gasket with the high tach and torque to
10 to 12 foot
run a tap in all intake holes and clean bolts with
a wire brush or wire wheel on bench grinder
put a 1/4 bead of rtv in each corner where the
2 end gaskets go put then in and another bead
on top, lay intake gaskets on and carfuly put
the intake on, put a drop of oil on each bolt
and slowly tighten them down untill they are all
snug
Now torque from center to end in a cris cross
patteren 4 foot, 8 foot, 12 foot pounds and go
over them in the same patteren about 3 times at
12
reinstall front mount alt and a/c and the center
idler pully you had to remove to get the one bolt
take the injector clips of 1 at a time replace
o-rings put some oil on each ring and instal and
clip oil intake side o-rings and instal rail
wires and TB
This whole job takes me about 3 hours have done
it many times this way and never had a pletium
leak yet, or an intake vac leak the secret is
taking your time torqing the intake down
do not use any silicon or ant sealer on intake
gaskets
All fixed with about $50 worth of parts and
sealers
The bottle neck on the flange of these intakes
is so bad I have seen some hanging down 1/4"
and the injector spray actualy hits it and
sprays back into the intake 10 to 15hp right here
removing this
Take a weekend get a friend and take the time and
do it you will be very happy you did
Larry
J&J Auto
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ccman
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/08/2008
00:14:36
| RE: spit and sputter
IP: Logged
Message:
Hey Larry, did you mean a plenum leak or is there actually something called a pletium? If it is the plenum you meant then wouldn't i be burning or losing oil? It doesn't use a drop of oil!! This theory makes sense. when cold all i hear from the inside of my truck is sucking noise, like air going around something. After it warms up it is still kind of there but no where near as loud. truck is also very peppy from cold start up, but after warm becomes sluggish. Still no codes either! I put a little oil on the IAC motor o-ring when i installed that. i don't think it's that. Do i get this gasket from the dealer and if i do won't it be the same thing i just had on? i'm sure i can do this job but i don't have a recovery system for the refrigerant from the AC nor am i able to recharge it.
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ccman
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/08/2008
00:52:12
| RE: spit and sputter
IP: Logged
Message:
Forgot to mention, my truck is not pinging either. I know that is sometimes a sign of bad plenum. I use no oil or leak no oil as well. I removed breather tube and pcv valve and put my fingers over each hole for a little while and it builds up suction. I thought Larry mentioned this method as some kind of test to check it, it's was a while ago the exact way of doing it might be off a little. One thing that has me a little worried though. Everytime i pull my pcv valve out it is terribly wet and cruddy with oil, like some blow by getting in it. but that would be indicative of plenum gasket wouldn't it? I put a regular air filter in tonight, it kind of feels like it runs better vs. the K&N drop in. K&N not that dirty either! I just want to get to the root of this. This might sound stupid but would a new gas cap help? I would think if i was losing pressure from the gas cap it would trip a code. I bid on a fuel pressure guage on ebay, will know in a few if i won. got to get pressure checked. what kind of seal is in the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail? this is where some gas was leaking out from my very first post and i want to replace it.
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