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sport02
Dodge Dakota
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4/11/2008
23:25:54
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 Subject: manual shifting hard
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Message:
2002 3.9 5spd 85,000 miles
I'm noticing lately when i shift from first gear to second sometimes it feels clunky. Also sometimes if i don't come to a complete stop it can be a bugger to get into first. The gears don't grind but just stubborn shifting sometimes. It's better after warm up. I changed the tran oil last summer and replaced with syncromesh. Was told it's the same tranny that's in the S10's and syncromesh would smooth it out some but i can't say it's really helped all that much. I also heard this is a fairly heavy duty trans and it's nature of the beast. Any advice?
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
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4/12/2008
07:43:27
| RE: manual shifting hard
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my '00 sport QC has always been hard to downshift to 1st unless completely stopped. first is so low 1/2 the time i don't use it.
now i don't have any problems shifting any other gears at all up or down.
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2602
GenI
4/12/2008
07:53:11
| RE: manual shifting hard
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Message:
Make sure fluid level is up in reservoir... other than that my 3.9 5 speed has never had any issues. 152K I put in a new clutch only because I had a leaking freeze plug, so the tranny was out... Even then, really didn't need the new parts. Tranny and transfer seem to be a pretty tough assembly. Keep us informed if something out of the ordinary is wrong.
Worktruck
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dakota49
Dodge Dakota
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4/12/2008
15:38:16
| RE: manual shifting hard
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Message:
2602, I think maybe you should have said the clutch reservior should be full. Sometimes it can be a little hard to figure out what you are trying to say if the person in new to Dakotas.
Dakota49
1988 3.9 4X4 5speed
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2602
GenI
4/12/2008
20:30:32
| RE: manual shifting hard
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Point taken.
Worktruck
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Jimmy9190
Dodge Dakota
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4/12/2008
21:43:49
| RE: manual shifting hard
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Message:
I had a transmission shop drain and refill my NV 3500 last year and they used the synchromesh. It had the same problems you describe. Very hard to shift especially when cold and noisy from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I drained the synchromesh myslef and went back with the Mopar manual transmission lube. It took a few days to get back to normal but since then no problems with the transmission. I had another very well respected transmission shop owner here tell me that they only use the factory lube also, they had too many problems with the aftermarket brands.
NV 3500 is said to be a very reliable and tough durable transmission but expensive if it ever does break down.
Jimmy
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nice1
Dodge Dakota
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4/13/2008
01:25:33
| RE: manual shifting hard
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I've been learning lately to always use the Mopar stuff. I've tried to save money here and there and turns out I always have problems when i use something else. The syncromesh was actually cheaper than the NV3500 fluid from Mopar so naturally i went with that. Plus, the syncromesh was "quoted" by some chevy parts counter guy to make it shift better! Jimmy9190, my truck does same as what you've described and started doing it seemingly a few weeks after i changed the fluid but i never thought it would be from the syncromesh. I will drain and replace with Mopar recommended. thanks!
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Jimmy9190
Dodge Dakota
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4/13/2008
12:39:15
| RE: manual shifting hard
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Message:
Sounds good. If the fluid has never been changed out I'd try new Mopar fluid first then if you still have problems you might need a good transmission shop to check it for you. New oil might help it. When the synchronizers get some wear on them, you get the noisy and clunky shifting, especially when cold. Mine will sometimes have a little notch in it from 1st to 2nd, but only when it is cold. The dealer parts guy can run your VIN to tell which transmission lube you need. Also mine only held about 2 and a half bottles, but the parts computer said it called for 4 and a half. All I had to do was return what I didn't use, and next time I only need 2 bottles. My dealer here charged me about $16.00 per bottle. It's also a good idea to use the Mopar gear oil in the differential too. You can buy a hand operated pump at the parts store that will screw on to the bottles for both lubes to put in the new fluid and I believe the drain plug for the trans is a 5/8" allen head. I had a hard time finding that big an allen wrench. Not even Napa had it. I looked all over town but I found it in a whole set of large Allen wrenches from Northern Tool for about $15.00. Take a look at www.northerntools.com, Item #156550.
On the rear end you want the level about 1/4 inch below the fill hole, otherwise it will saturate the plug and leak a little like mine did. I overfilled it a little bit. Dealer can get both fluids for you by the VIN and tell whether you have a limited slip differential. When I did mine I drained and refilled both the trans and rear end at the same time. They say the transmission and rear end oils are good for 60K but I do them both at every 50K. If you do the rear end, Mopar also makes a special gasket sealant especially for the differential, and it was not much different in price from the Permatex you can buy at the parts store.
Jimmy
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