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mikey
Dodge Dakota
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2/25/2008
22:55:19

Subject: smog pump? air pump?
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my 88 dakota has a some sort of a pump....possibly a smog pump or an air pump? It is locked up and the belt has been removed...it was this way when I purchased it. Would this have any effect on how the truck runs??? It is difficult to start and runs very rough after it does start? The pump is located just above the power steering pump and has 2 larger hoses coming out of it and 1 smaller vacuum line attached to it. 3.9 liter v6 engine.



dakota49
Dodge Dakota
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2/26/2008
18:04:37

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Mikey, mine had that as well, when I rebuilt my engine I left mine off what it is suppose to do is pump air into the exhaust, to help clean up the air. It shouldn't affect how the truck runs.
One of the first things I did with mine was check for vacuum leaks, and I found a lot of things wrong, someone had removed the PVC valve and just put a vacumm line into the valve cover, then a few other lines were cracked, broken or just plain missing. Once you get the vacumm lines fixed, (if that is the problem) it should run pretty good, if there's nothing else wrong with the engine. Check for codes, ign. on/off/on/off/on and leave on, the check engine light will blink out the codes, like 55 would be 5 blinks, pause 5 blinks. By the way 55 means it doesn't have any more codes stored in the computer.
How many miles does it have??
Good Luck
Dakota49
1988 3.9 4X4 5speed



mikey
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2008
10:07:17

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Well I changed the fuel filter along with a new set of spark plugs...seemed to help a bunch. Still running rough however so I went to work on the vacuum lines and found 2 not hooked up and 2 more that I replaced with new hose due to severe cracking/splitting. Took the cap off and sanded the rotor bug contacts etc. Cranked her up and she ran pretty good....by far the best its ran so far. However it seems to be flooding just a little....idles a little rough and lopes for a while when I hold the accelerator down slightly and hold it steady. Then it burns out the excess fuel and levels out.

Went out this morning to start the old girl....no go. Wasn't getting fuel. So I repeatedly turned the key off/on several times to engage the fuel pump and it cranked right up. Idled very rough however. Seems like its losing fuel pressure while setting an extended period of time? Not sure what would cause this....the fuel filter is good and tight and no leaks anywhere I can see.

As for the codes I get 22....other than the normal 12 and 55. Coolant sensor? If its the one I think it is (right behind the smog pump) it looks brand new. Has a 2-wire plug. The previous owner possibly replaced it already? He hung a bunch of new parts on this truck before he gave up on it. Would this make it idle rough? The temp gauge seems to be working perfectly.

She's a 1988 model 4wd long bed...red/silver. Very nice looking truck with NO rust except for a little under the doors. Must have lived some of its life down south someplace! Showing 239,000 miles on the meter....not sure if its had any engine work but it has great oil pressure holds the gauge 3/4 - 7/8 the way over all the time.

Well I'm off to work on the heater....no blower at all.....maybe I'll get lucky with a fuse :)



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2008
10:25:26

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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if it is like the later models there are 2 sensors in the coolant. one for the gage and one for the PCM. the one for the PCM will affect the way it runs as the PCM uses to adjust fuel and timing according to engine temp.



J and J Auto
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2/28/2008
23:42:53

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Throttle body injection

15 psi

There is also a vac operated regulater which
will raise the presure to aprox 18 to 21 under
hard excelleration that must be checked

Also has an o2 sensor

Larry
J&J Auto

dakota49
Dodge Dakota
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2/29/2008
22:24:38

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Mikey, the coolant temp sensor is to the left of the thermostat housing, just in front of the T-stat, the other one is for the gauge.(on the right front as you look at the engine) It can be what's causing your rough running problem, chek the plug to be sure its making good contact and restart, to see if it runs any better, if not you can check the wires, but I think its most likely the sensor.
Good Luck
Dakota49
1988 3.9 4X4 5speed



mikey
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2008
11:48:38

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Well I changed the coolant temp sensor (code 22) with no change. Runs no different and still have the code. Note this sensor was taken off my parts truck...possibly could be bad as well. I couldn't find a new one everyone I called said and 88 3.9 took a 3 prong round sensor, mine is a 2 prong oval plug??? Not sure whats up with that! Both my 88 trucks have the 2 prong oval plug for the coolant sensor?

Another problem I'm having is the idling. The truck will NOT idle when cold, after it warms up it idles perfectly? I've been messing around with the EGR valve and noticed when its plugged in it will idle but rough....acts like it flooding somewhat. With it UNhooked it runs much smoother but won't idle.

Also, I'm loosing fuel pressure somewhere. I get about 20lbs but it bleeds off to about nothing in 30 minutes or so??? Not sure what would cause this. The fuel tank has been taken off several times (once by me and a few times by the previous owner). I wonder if possibly the return line and the drain line could be switched and that would cause the pressure loss???



cjperotti
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2008
14:31:47

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Dakota Fuel Pressures

TBI...........................14.5psi
MP1
1993 and earlier.
At idle w/vac hose connected to pressure regulator.....31psi
At idle w/vac hose disconnected from pressure regulator....39psi
1994 and 95...................35 to 45psi
1996 and up...................44 to 54psi



dakota49
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2008
14:33:59

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Mikey, I'm thinking the fuel pressure regulator is bad, its located at the back of the throtle body, about the center. there are 2 screws that hold it on,(torque bit) it also has a vacuum line going to it. Try unplugging the vacuum line, be sure to plug the end so you don't have a big vacuum leak, then start and see what happens. Mine ran rough and was a real pain when I unplugged the regulator it smoothed right out, then I replaced the reg. and it ran great for about 3 weeks and started acting up again aso I disconnected the vacuum line and left it off. (plugged so I wouldn't have a vacuum leak though) And its been running great ever since. It may be possible that the regulator is not holding pressure, but I don't know how much its suppose to hold, or how long. When you start to start the eng. the fuel pump comes on for a few seconds then shuts off, but when you said if you turn the key on a few times that helps, that does make sence.
Good Luck
Dakota49



Mikey
Dodge Dakota
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3/04/2008
15:24:10

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Ok. I changed the fuel regulator with a new one with no noticable difference. Truck runs perfect when warmed up....idles fine and drives down the road fine. The problem only seems to occur during start-up while cold. Have to turn the key on/off several times to get fuel to the injectors. Then when started it absolutely will NOT idle....have to keep it running with the gas pedal until warms up somewhat (several minutes).

Still have the 22 code as well. Found the right coolant sensor at OReillys and put it on, disconnected battery for a couple minutes and the CEL comes right back on after start-up. Any ideas guys...



cjperotti
Dodge Dakota
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3/04/2008
15:46:02

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Sounds like you may have a weak fuel pump.



dakota49
Dodge Dakota
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3/04/2008
21:02:23

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Try doing a hard clear, that is disconnect the battery and hold the key in the start position for 1 minute, then hook up the battery again and see what happens. Also, leave the battery disconnected for 15 minutes.
I wish I knew just what was wrong it gets exspensive just changing parts.
Good Luck
Dakota49
1988 3.9 4X4 5speed



Mikey
Dodge Dakota
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3/05/2008
19:01:11

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Hey Dakota, I did the hard clear (disconnected the battery for about 1/2 hour and held the key over for a minute or so). Then BEFORE I started it, I checked for codes....still had code 22 in it. Maybe I'm wrong but I expected it to be clear atleast until I started the engine? I went ahead and cranked it up and the CEL was still on as well.



dakota49
Dodge Dakota
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3/07/2008
15:30:14

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Mikey, man I'm sorry you are having such a hard time with this thing, the only thing I can think of at this point is a bad wire/broken or grounded. Its not going to be easy, but I would check the wires where they plug into the sensor and follow them all the way back to the computer, and see if the are broken, or grounded. The only thing I don't understand is how its holding the code even after the battery is disconnected, with mine (an 88 as well) when I disconnect the battery it clears all the codes, that's why I'm thinking there may be a wire that's either broken, or grounded.
Good Luck
Dakota49



Mikey
Dodge Dakota
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3/11/2008
09:53:59

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Well finally found why I couldn't get rid of code 22 coolant temp sensor....after trying 3 different computers, 2 different coolant sensors, it was the plug. Upon close inspection 1 of the wires had disconnected/broken off from the plug connector. Repaired and NO more code 22 and it runs perfectly. Starts perfectly after setting all night and idles smooth as silk! Amazing how 1 little connection can cause so many problems!

Thanks for all your help Dakota49 as well as the rest of you fellas.

Mikey



dakota49
Dodge Dakota
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3/12/2008
15:44:36

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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Mikey, glad to hear you got it fixed, I'm sorry you replaced so many parts that may not have been bad though. Happy Motoring!!
Good Luck
Dakota49



Tubbs Auto
Dodge Dakota
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3/03/2015
00:37:17

RE: smog pump? air pump?
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We have recently worked on a 1988 Dodge Dakota, we
rebuilt the upper half of the engine (3.9) Heads
up. After finishing the engine it would not stay
running. The problem co-existed between the
emissions and electrical systems, the TPS and MAP
sensors were faulted on the vehicles PCM. In fact
the sensors seemed bad yet they were not beings
they tested good, the problem was in the wire
harness connectors. The vacuum line running from
the MAP sensor was dry rotted and was allowing air
to seep in at the connectors at the sensor and at
the manifold/carb port depending on where yours is
located. Once we took the necessary actions we had
fixed all the issues it had with running and
Idling. For more information on other vehicles as
well as this one please visit our page at
www.facebook.com/tubbsautomotiveandsmallenginerepa
ir Hope this helps you all.



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