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ccman Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/09/2007 01:37:43
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Subject: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: i have read all kinds of people's theories on how to bleed brakes. i remember as a teen the old two man method though today they advise not to pump anymore. so if you don't pump i guess you just open the bleeder, have someone press the pedal down and hold it, tighten bleeder, have them release pedal. repeat several times and don't let resovoir run dry. i always thought it was crucial to get that bleeder closed before letting the pedal back up or you suck air into your lines. is that true?
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GB2000 GenIII
5/09/2007 02:02:00
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: I don't understand why they wouldn't advise pumping them up? On any vehicles we've done brake work on, if you don't pump em up, your foot will just hit the floor as soon as you press on the pedal. I'd be more worried about getting all the air out using that method as compared to pumping up the brakes.
The way we always do it is like you mentioned...
Have one person inside the vehicle pump up the brakes 3-4 times and then hold pressure on the pedal. The other person then opens up the bleeder valve on the brake. The pedal will drop down to the floor as the air/fluid is being released through the bleeder valve. When it's on the floor, tell them to close the bleeder. DON'T lift up on the pedal until it's closed or you'll have just let air into the line and you'll have to start over! Then repeat until the only thing coming out of the lines is pure brake fluid. If it looks bubbly, keep bleeding em.
Repeat for each brake needing bled.
Also...if you change a line, make sure you bleed it a few extra times, especially if the brakes feel spongy. My buddy bled the brakes in his Toyota Celica after they changed one of the rear brake lines. They did it a few times and no air appeared to be in the system, but the car had ZERO brakes. Turns out, the fluid coming out of the bleeder was the fluid in front of the giant air pocket. After bleeding em a few more times, the bleeder valve shot air and fluid about 15 feet across the garage and his brakes were good as new. lol
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ccman Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/09/2007 11:49:24
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: is this while the truck is running or off? also, could air or anything else in brake line make the pedal hard as opposed to soft? i'm having a hard pedal the last two days. it doesn't start out that way. the pedal is normal then after driving a little it becomes hard. the brakes are still ok, i checked them and fluid is ok too. front left caliper seems to be hanging up though but not sure if it's cause of the caliper itself or the master cylinder. I really, really hope it's not the master cylinder. is there a simple test or way to diagnose it?
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dakota49 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/09/2007 19:33:38
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: CCman, I think what you are talking about is anti-lock brakes, its a little more involved than just pumping the pedal. I think what they do now is use a pressure bleeder, it holds about a half gallon and then use a master cly.lid with a connector then use air pressure to force the brake fluid thourgh the system. I have worked on some old trucks, like a Ford F650 and it would have taken a very long time to bleed the system using the pump method. I filled the tank with brake fluid, drilled a hole in the master cly. lid then shot the fluid into the master cly with about 25lbs. of air and within 30 minutes had the entire system bleed. I tried for about 30 minutes to get enough pedal pressure so I could bleed the right rear wheel cly. and gave up and bought the pressure bleeder, money very well spent. I hope that helps some. good luck
dakota49
oh yeah, one more thing, if you use the pedal method be sure to start with the wheel farthest from the master cly. That would be the case whatever method you use.
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GB2000 GenIII
5/09/2007 22:41:49
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: Dunno if the ABS would have anything to do with it...never bled my rears and all I have is rear-wheel ABS. When using the method where you pump the brakes, on the Dakotas, you'd prolly want the engine running so the brake booster will kick in and pressurize the lines.
Like dakota49 said...make sure when you bleed em to the wheel furthest from the master cylinder first. You'll only need to bleed the brakes that are using the same line off the master cylinder. Make sure you don't let it run empty or you'll have to start over and bleed ALL the brakes. Oh yeah...and also remember to keep the lid on the master cylinder while pumping the brakes up or you'll force air into the system as well.
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J and J Auto GenII
5/09/2007 23:55:39
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: ccman we also bleed the brakes using the 2 man
method
After you have a good pedal than we do each again
with the motor running
starting with the farthest away pass rear than
drivers rear
front pass than drivers side
Than run the truck for a while a week or so and
bleed them again with motor running
The antilock systems we do this way than there
good
The only other way we use is a power bleeder but
most don't have a power bleeder sitting in there
garage
I don't know what it is about these systems after
your initial bleed you still have a spongy pedal
run it a while than rebleed and there fine its
one of those weird things
Larry J&J Auto
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ccman Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/10/2007 01:29:26
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: here's the article about not pumping brakes
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/brake_fluid_change.htm
not sure what to think now. it would take forever to gravity bleed. i want to flush this thing out. i looked inside the resovoir and it's nasty!!
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ccman Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/10/2007 02:12:12
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: won't motor running trip abs or give any problems with the abs system. i have rear wheel abs. so i bleed with motor off till i get good pedal. then bleed again with motor running. then run a week or so and bleed again with motor running? wow thats a lot of bleeding!! everyone does is different! i don't suppose bleeding the system would have any effect on this sticky caliper would it?
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Bob Lincoln Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/10/2007 08:58:54
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: "I don't know what it is about these systems after your initial bleed you still have a spongy pedal run it a while than rebleed and there fine its one of those weird things" Thanks for the tip, Larry. My 92 Daytona has always had this problem, I just figured that's the way it had to be. I'm going to be redoing my brake lines and wheel cylinders, will try this. Thanks.
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jf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
11/15/2011 12:41:11
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: Thanks guys, I have had the same problem with my 92 Dakota, replaced all brake lines and now can't seem to get rid of spongy pedal even after bleeding 3x. I'll try again with motor running. Thanks for the tip.
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Bob Lincoln Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
11/16/2011 08:20:52
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: I had to bleed my 92 Dakota several times to get all the air out. Now the brakes grab like new. Trick is not to let the bleeder hose move the slightest bit off the bleeder screw - air can get sucked back in there, with the slightest angling of the hose.
Make sure you bleed the rear ABS unit, that's on the left rear frame rail, before any of the wheels.
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gary preston Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
10/17/2018 17:30:21
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: ran out of fluid in tank. now after bleeding
pedal goes half way down then bleeds down another
25% changed master cy. and rear brakes nothing
has changed even after bleeding all wheels 4 times
in proper rotation i have no visable leaks
what am i missing ? it does have a-b-s with
everything i have done it has changed nothing
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Shawnfrazier Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
12/02/2018 12:05:57
| RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged
Message: I 2 seem to be having the same problem with my 05 Dakota. 1 month after I bought it was driving and smelled brakes burning got out and drivers front rotor was red. got it home replaced rotors and calipers on both sides. a year later the same problem I have now just have got use to brake drag in the front and the first smell of brakes I assume it is my truck. The front calipers on both sides stick I have replaced them 3 times they last 4 awhile and then start sticking again, have never had this much problem with a truck before I miss my 83 f-150 ran it tell the body was rusting apart gas oil and it was good you fart in the dodge and something breaks or locks up.
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