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07:40:08 - 11/17/2024
V6 Dakotas
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sport2002
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/07/2007
23:36:08
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 Subject: caliper hanging up
IP: Logged
Message:
ok, this is the second time this has happened. was driving and all was well. then had to do some quick braking and then from that point on the pedal was hard. then about 5 min later i could smell really hot brakes. got to work and left caliper is hanging up almost tight enough to stop the truck from moving. the right one seemed ok. i let the truck sit for my shift and come out and leave and the caliper is realeased and no problems. like i said it has happened before like 2 months ago so i greased the sliders, guess that wasn't it.
now in between now and the last time it happened i've been having this rattling in the front end which i have finally pinpointed. it's the inner brake pads on both the front left and right wheels. the caliper piston isn't sitting pushing up against them to keep them free of slack. they are still factory pads at 70,000 miles, i'm impressed. how long are factory's good for. there are no squealers to let you know when they are worn and to me they still look like they've got a good half inch of meat. are they worn to far for the piston to hold flush to the rotor anymore or what? the brakes seem to be fine other than this annoying rattle and the left caliper hanging up. don't know if it is related to the loose inner pad thing or not.
why would the piston come out when applying brakes but then recede back in enough to cause this maybe 1-2mm slack between the pad and the piston. the rattle of course does not happen when the brakes are on. i need someone who is good with brakes to help me out here.
i had bled my brakes a little while ago but after reading up on it seems i did not do it the right way and wonder now if there's air or vacuum in lines if that is possible. anyone know? would bleeding them again the right way get rid of any of these problems? what is the right way to bleed them? sorry for so many questions but i can't afford to take it to the dealer anymore, this site has been far more helpful so far anyways for the capable.
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J and J Auto
GenII
 
5/08/2007
00:14:29
| RE: caliper hanging up
IP: Logged
Message:
It may be a sticky piston in that case replace
the caliper get a loaded one it comes with all
new bolts and bushings
If one side does it the other will not be far
behind
replace both and the pads and be done with it
the pads as long as the caliper works ok will
run for most upto 100,000 some people who brake
hard all the time and ride the brakes you can cut
that in half 50,000
be sure you inspect the rotors also
I ran my 1995 4x4 in snow salt mud sand water you
name it amd got 100,000 than the pass side calp
locked up the pads were just ready to hit the
rivits rotors ok
replaced pads and both calipers
For the things this truck has been trew 100,000
was very surprizing to me
Just befor the front acted up I had a leaky
wheel cyl on the drivers rear so I replaced
both wheel cyls and new shoews and hardware in
the back
Also when doing the back if you have many miles
replace the adjuster a kit with a new cable is
$12 to $20 the cables rust and brake often on the
dodge trucks the little adjuster cable I am
talking about not the e brake cable
Larry
J&J Auto
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sport2002
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/08/2007
00:53:29
| RE: caliper hanging up
IP: Logged
Message:
Larry, what do you think is causing the space between the piston and pad? also, briefly can you describe the correct way to bleed brakes. i'm strapped for cash and want to make getting new calipers my last option. i read on speedtweaks site about bleeding and it says start with the master cylinder, then abs valve, then right rear, etc. i don't understand this. how do you bleed the master cylinder? is there an easier way to describe the steps?
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sport2002
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/08/2007
01:03:12
| RE: caliper hanging up
IP: Logged
Message:
how involved would just changing out the old brake fluid be. how do you get it all out?
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sport2002
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/10/2007
22:16:33
| RE: caliper hanging up
IP: Logged
Message:
sure enough, both my calipers were shot. the seals to the pistons were completely ripped, it was ugly. i replaced both of them today, new brake pads and unfortuneately had to replace the rotors. i was actually on my way to my dad's garage about 50 miles from where i live but had some running around in town to do. all the stop and go action ceased up my calipers real good but i had to get this done today so i drove it all 50 miles. the rotors were torched and just settled for new ones that way i didn't have to find someone to run me around to get the bad ones resurfaced, new is probly better anyways and only $60 for both.
Replacing the calipers went very well, so did the bleeding of brake lines. I flushed the system with new brake fluid, it was filthy cruddy after 5 years and 70,000 miles. I've got nice and smooth stopping now, pedal is not spongey either. i'm just a little bit worried though because even though the truck is moving freely now as opposed to before when i could feel the calipers holding the truck back, it still feels like the truck is heavy or something holding back. wheels are turning freely and smoothly. what are the chances of damage to the hub bearings from the heat from the froze pistons. also, any chance that i changed any performance of the truck by running it under such a load? the calipers were froze enough that you probly could not have turned the wheels by hand and the truck did not drift backwards on a hill with foot off brake. this wouldn't have possibly fouled the plugs would it? it's not missing but just feels so sluggish.
come to think of it, if the hub bearings were damaged and not spinning freely i would not have been able to spin the tire so freely when it was jacked up.
Larry, thanks for the tips on loaded calipers, it was nice having everything right there! i did not see if the back wheels were spinning freely. maybe from bleeding the brakes they are tighter or something, will have to check it out
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