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J and J Auto
GenII
 
3/09/2007
06:52:46
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 Subject: ElmerFudd
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Message:
Did you get your e3 3.64
And how did they work out for you from what I can
gather your truck is prety much stock
would like to here your resaults and please list
your mods if any
A stock truck around my shop is unheard of almost
all have most of the mods done to them
I have a customer with a 1995 lincolin town car
4.6 180,000 miles running the halo's he was
getting 22 23mpg this summer he finaly brought
the car in and we switched all the fluids to
Amsoil now getting 24 25mpg
he used to get 20 22 mpg
with halo's 22 23mpg
halo's and all Amsoil syn 24 25mpg
This is the same guy I built the V6 for he brought
his town car up this summer left the truc in AZ
for his brother to use to move to his new house
In his case with the 4.6 switching to all syn
fluids and the halo plugs he gained 3 to 5mpg
He was one of those hard cases the plugs as soon
as I told him about them he tried them and was
very impresed with the milage and performance
increase
As far as the syn oil he was told by so many that
his car had to many mikes on it to change to
synthetics
He finally after 3 months of doing resurch and
talking with me took the plung and went to all
synthetics
He is back in Arizona now for the winter and has
called me 3 times to tell me how impresed he was
with the milage and power increase to his 1995
town car
I just had to let people know about this, It is
never to late to change to better fluids and
reap the rewards sythetics have to offer
Now he is begaining to beleave in these things
and finally got himself a K&N filter
setup for his car
I gurateed him at least 1mpg more he got 1.5mpg
more
50 60 degree weather he pulled 26.5 now that is
excellent with a full size car 4.6 V8 with
180,000 miles to increase the mileage 6.5mpg
This man was histerical the last time he called
just so impressed by how much these things can
really help
This is true on any vehicle out there
better oil
better plugs
better air intake
will improve any gasoline motor
I see it proven over and over every day but still
some will not beleave it oh well its there loss
not mine
Larry
J&J Auto
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harry in ct
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/10/2007
20:52:39
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
cudos larry
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ElmerFudd
GenII
3/12/2007
14:28:30
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
Larry,
Well since finding this site about 2 years ago I've made a few mods in the order you suggested. So far I have F&B 48mmTB, 1.7 Harland Sharp, MSD6A, MSD Blaster coil, 8.0 spark plug wires, Dynomax muffler, JBA Headers, K & N air Intake, FMS #19 Fuel Injectors, Autolite 3923. I did the IAC reloaction and I didn't think my truck liked it so I put it back, I did the minor timing advance. Bought a new O2 after hearing about how often it's a problem. Did the imfamous electrical splice when it became a problem. I've yet to put in the e3 3.64 plugs my 3923's are a nice tan and I hate to change them but I will, I did buy the e3 3.64's. I am still desludging my oil with I think it's Auto RX, on the second treatment. I bought the Royal Purple synthetic oil to use. Truck is running great 168500 miles on it. Any thoughts on additional mods? I'm still not sure about the air intake and whether a K&N Air filter designed for the 95 is good sucking in hot engine air as it sits on the TB or whether I should buy a 97 airhat and buy a K&N kit that runs the air intake from the right front similar to stock. I've also considered doing the PVC home brewed set up. I know you have a hood vent, but I'm not ready to punch a hole in my hood. Any other mods I should consider? Wrabbit season is over so it's time to work on my huntin truck.
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/14/2007
19:18:29
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
Looks like you have it prety well complete
When your plugs run tan you know everything is
working well and your air fuel ratio is right
on the money
The only thing that you could do is add the V6
mopar performance computer with your mods around
15hp 20 torque
What I did was put a hood scoop on I have the
same K&N 14x3 setup, or get a setup for the
newer trucks with just a little moding they will
fit right on but be sure the kit you get comes
with the air hat the K&N does but some do not
remove the flap from in front of where the old air
tube was this will let a little more air enter
under the hood
The IAT should be 6" from throttle body mine is
in the bottom of the air cleaner above the cables
oh one other thing would be gasket match the
intake just use some bolts and washers and bolt
an old gasket to the intake flange and with some
sanding disks or stones and a drill open them
up to match the gasket this is a very bad bottle
neck
You can also remove the devider and shorten the
runners this is a lot of work if you do it by
hand with a milling machine not bad just the
gasket match works great
with the 3923 gap .055 .060 for best resaults
The V6 performance comp can be had for $258.95
from summitracing.com just put DCC-5249521
into the search and it will come up takes about
2 weeks to get it
One thing with the perf pcm because of the
timing advance the e3's do not run the best
because of the small .040 gap and the msd
the autolite or ngk FR5 at .055 do run better
with this setup
The halo 15 1 range colder however run great
figure that one
maybe a high flow cat the carsound slip fit from
truckperformance.com for $89 is a good deal just
get 2 2 1/2 clamps cut out 3" shorter than over
all length for a 1 1/2 slip on each end put on
and clamp a done deal no welding needed its what
I use on mine and a lot of the trucks
As I said many times when your plugs are tan your
good, its the best way to check how your motor
is running
I also bet if you keep your foot out of it you get
20mpg plus
You can do a shift kit the TCI 220500 works great
but also replace the TV valve plunger and sleave
$29 and the 1-2 accumulator $25 a good alm with
steel seal rings not plastic with crap rings
Once all these things are done these little
motors run great hey
Have fun
Larry
J&J Auto
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ElmerFudd
GenII
3/15/2007
08:47:46
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
Thanks.
Would a 5.2L K&N set up like KNN-57-1509-1 from Summit work on my F&B 48mm TB. It comes with an airhat but I'm not sure if it would fit.
What would the V6 performance comp do for me? I think you're saying that the e3's are gapped at .040 and don't work well with the performance comp, is that right? I'll have to try them with my current set up.
Shhhhhhhhh, be vewy vewy quiet; I'm hunting wabits, heh heh heh heh heh.
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J and J Auto
GenII
3/17/2007
01:15:34
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
Yes try them with your stock computer
The AP3923 at .060 NGK FR5 at .055 and the halo
with a set gap of .045 all ran very well with
the performance comp I don't understand why the
e3 plug ran on the doggie side being so close
to the halo in design
One big thig I forgot is the fan if you remove
the clutch fan and go electric you will gain
both power and gas mileage
The perma cool 16" or 18" both rated at 2950 cfm
these fans with 4 brackets the motor towards the
rad and the fan blade reversed and 1" back from
the end of the shroud work very well and a nice
clean instalation centered in the shroud
To go with this the flexolite thermo control
direct coolent read works very well, I set them
with a scanner but you can play a little and
get them very close
I run a reg 195 stant thermo and it runs 183 185
the fan comes on at 188 shuts back off at 185
only comes on on very hot days or city driving
on the high way its off
Fan $100 plus ship
thermo control $39 plus ship
shipping is free at summitracing.com but they do
charge a 10.95 service charge LOL
Yes the K&N will fit there is a little tab inside
the air hat that needs to be cut off than they
go right on the F&B you will also have to change
the mouting a little we have done that a lot
and they fit well just a little screwing around
some we also had to shorten 1 tube but they cut
very easy with a hack saw than remove the burs
The perf comp is a nice upgrade and adds some
very noticeable power from 1600 rpm on up no
rev limiter on this comp.
Larry
J&J Auto
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ElmerFudd
GenII
3/19/2007
16:44:20
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
I think the electric fan is the next mod. As I understand this mod you take off the stock fan which robs power because of the engine effort to turn the fan. Put in an electric fan on the engine side of the radiator so that it sucks cold air through the radiator. Add the thermal control to regulate the fan. I read your past posts and you put in a relay switch to provide a manual on/off. Sounds good. I had a 195 thermostat, switched to 180 for a while and then back to 195 for the winter. Is the 180 a must for this set up, I think you said you have a 195 in yours with the scanner. I haven't checked out the nut removal problem, just read about it. Seems like if it's a problem use a bigger hammer.
Shhhhhhhhh, be vewy vewy quiet;
I'm hunting wabits,
heh heh heh heh heh.
|
J and J Auto
GenII
3/20/2007
02:13:42
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
The fan unscrews counter clock wise I use a big
screw driver and hammer to knock them lose
Yes mount the fan right into the exsisting shroud
just stay 1" back from the edge with the fan blade
just flip the fan blade over so the motor is behin
the fan not sticking out from the shrould
The permacool is a good fan what ever you do don't
use the plastic ties trew the rad they do not
hold up bend some metal brackets and mount right
into the shrould all you see is the blade sitting
in there no motor hanging out LOL nice and clean
Yes use a 30 amp relay what the thermo switchis
the ground on off
The relays middle 1 verticle 2 horazontle prongs
these are the switching prongs
verticle power
1st horz is on when relay is off
2nd on when switched
outer 2 are the relay coil on off 1 ground 1 power
what I did was interupt the ground with a switch
to turn it on and off in the cab
I also installed 2 LEDs with a 1k resistor when
on but not running the green led is on when the
thermo turns the fan on the green goes off and a
red comes on in the cab
All you have to do is run 2 wires into the cab
threw the 1k resistor than to ground
I put a master disconest switch and a manual on
switch incase the thermo switce ever failed but
I have not had 1 fail yet the flexolite switch
is a very good switch the tube goes into the
top rad hose has a little rubber gromit than
rap 2 rounds electrical tape silicon spray end
of hose and slide on they dont leak
besides a little power gain also mpg gains with
elect fan
If you need more specific wireing I can send you
a diagram
The LED's are a nice touch tells you when the
thermo switched is armed green on and red when
running also makes it easy to adjust
The thermo get a reg stant 195 it will run 183 185
I used to change summer winter also the stock
thermo is metered that is why the reg 195 runs
cooler
Larry
J&J Auto
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ElmerFudd
GenII
3/20/2007
06:57:30
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
Sounds good I think I can follow all the above, a wiring diagram would be great, probably all could benefit.
Shhhhhhhhh, be vewy vewy quiet;
I'm hunting wabits,
heh heh heh heh heh.
|
ElmerFudd
GenII
3/20/2007
07:32:47
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
I think the fan to buy is the PRM-19115 and the thermo control is FLX-33010 from Summit. Would it be better to buy the FLX-30332 thermo control? It says the control box has a connection for an AC relay and manual on/off. Wiring is not my thing, I usually need directions.
Shhhhhhhhh, be vewy vewy quiet;
I'm hunting wabits,
heh heh heh heh heh.
|
ElmerFudd
GenII
3/30/2007
09:59:42
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
Larry - how can I get a diagram from you for the wiring?
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J and J Auto
GenII
4/06/2007
00:28:40
| RE: ElmerFudd
IP: Logged
Message:
If you get the more expensive thermo switch it
will come with a diagram the other one does to
the fancier one has a setup that turns the fan
on when the A/C comes on
either will work if you need a diagram I have it
on my comp in the spare bedroom upstairs would
just have to find it and send it to you or
I also have it on a geocities website but it
will not import to this site from there
would just have to find address for it
let me know
Larry
J&J Auto
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