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bobup1962
Dodge Dakota
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10/14/2004
13:49:05

Subject: Check Engine Light HELP
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just had a similar problem on my 02 dakota. changed the gas cap and light came back on in a week. took it to the dealer. I had a leak in a fuel sensor. It was cover under warranty. It also showed a miss fire in a plug. They wanted me to pay $90.00 to change them(yeah right). spent $7.74 on new plugs.



edwin
Dodge Dakota
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2/17/2007
21:31:43

Check Engine Light HELP
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i have a dodge 2002 dakota pick up truck. My check engine light keeps comming back and staying on. I have tryed the gas cap, did not work.
The truck runs great otherwise,but this light is annoying me. Please help!!!!!!!!



Fasstdak
Dodge Dakota
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2/18/2007
00:15:45

Check Engine Light HELP
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What's the code?



signguy
Dodge Dakota
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2/20/2007
08:36:55

Check Engine Light HELP
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Mine is a ’01 and I had the same problem. I changed to a locking gas cap with no help. The next weekend, while changing the rear shocks, I noticed a couple of split hoses on the canister under the frame, just in front of the fuel tank, for ventilation of the fuel system. These are not under high pressure, but they do need to maintain a good vacuum. I happen to have some vulcanized rubber left over from re-roofing my house (non cured rubber with a sticky side used for edges, valleys and around pipes in your roof) I took the rubber hoses off and wrapped them and replaced them. Problem solved. Hope this helps



KATHY
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3/27/2007
02:04:07

Check Engine Light HELP
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I just found your site and I THANK YOU-- Bought a 2002 DAKOTA V6 3.9.........after recent blizzard here to get up off the ground ....had what I thought was clicking ujoints checked out at local garage. Told me to let the noise get louder to be able to diagnose. Okay!!!! Now, just a few miles later....check engine light......error code P0442.....I need gas tomorrow anyway so will check the the cap, and probably replace......and go from there. And perhaps get someone else to check the clicking noise.
I cannot thank you enough for this valuable information.
Kathy Wilson



Fasstdak
Dodge Dakota
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3/27/2007
06:08:33

Check Engine Light HELP
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A P04xx code doesn't necessarily mean it's a gas cap. Purge valve, Canister, LDP or NVLD, Hoses, Gas Tank, Filler Neck, basically anything in the EVAP system that's leaking or is faulty can be related to those codes.

A dirty air filter and then replacing it doesn't cause a code - only vehicles that will trip a Air Flow Restriction code are the ETC (Fly by Wire) vehicles.

A small EVAP leak (P0442) can be caused by cracked lines (leak smaller than or equal to .020"), leaking LDP/NVLD gasket, leaking vent filter, leaking filler neck (at the gas tank), or leaking EVAP lines.




Fasstdak
Dodge Dakota
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3/27/2007
06:14:08

Check Engine Light HELP
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Here's some information for those with P0440/P0441 codes as well:

Common misconception: The EVAP system is a useless addition and is only for "Smog" reasons...FALSE. The EVAP system actually saves the fuel that you spent your hard earned money on. It captures all the vapors and stores them in the EVAP canister to be introduced into the combustion chamber (via the intake). So...does it waste money...nope (and it also keeps the hydrocarbons out of our air).

After you have done a repair on the EVAP system and reset/cleared the codes, it can take up to 1700 - 4200 minutes for the EVAP monitors to run (Engine OFF/Key OFF). They start after the first 10 minutes of turning the vehicle off and can take up to 60 minutes to start running. First, the small leak detection monitor will run...if it passes - done deal. If not, the medium leak and then the large leak monitors will run. However...during this time, driving the vehicle will turn the monitors OFF - they won't run while you're driving and you'll have to wait again until they turn on. Park the vehicle for at least a day or two, after you've done your repair and driven the vehicle a little bit, in order to let it run the LDP (or NVLD) test and then the monitors.

The purge monitors are a different story, they will only run at specific running conditions and if you reset the PCM at anytime during this process...you're back to square one. The conditions vary from vehicle to vehicle so there's no 100% correct answer without looking at the actual monitor pre-test conditions on the DRB and making sure that it's within those parameters. Also, when you think you're "just clearing the codes"...you're also clearing the monitor data which puts you right back to square one. Now, if you clear the monitors...you may have to wait even longer as some monitors (O2 and Fuel) need to run sooner in some cases and can cause the EVAP monitors to be delayed (that's where the 4200 minutes comes into play). Be careful what you do.

Check ALL of the vacuum hoses for leaks. If you see ANY cracks in the lines, replace them as the system will detect up to a .010-.020" leak (that's small). The best test is to watch the LDP (or NVLD) switch from closed to open with a vacuum pump (1" H20 is all that's required to change the switch). DON'T run the vacuum test from the fuel tank cap either - it's not a proper test to find a leak. You'll need to know which system is on your truck though - LDP is standard on up to most early 2000 models with NVLD on most all newer vehicles.

A gas cap will NOT cause this problem unless you left the cap completely off. P0440 is a General EVAP Performance Failure and a P0441 is a EVAP Purge Performance issue. From experience with these hard to diagnose issues - it'll either be a cracked line(s), the LDP/NVLD, Purge Solenoid, or the actual EVAP can that has been fuel soaked from "topping off" the tank. You'll have to do the leg work and proper tests to verify it.

Hope that helps get the myths out of the P0440 code (it's NOT a gas cap) and i've seen the code come back after several months myself by people who thought it was a gas cap.

A trained technician can test and repair the system rather easily...the first time. I've seen too many "parts changers" that don't and all the customer gets is a large bill and more "Check Engine" lights. Even if they show you an EELD Machine...while it is a nice piece of equipment and does work in most cases...a simple Mighty-Vac Pump and a cup of water will work to test the NVLD/LPD system and vacuum lines. If they don't know how to use those simple tools to test the system...go somewhere else and save your money and Tylenol.

BTW:

LDP = Leak Detection Pump
NVLD = Natural Vacuum Leak Detection Pump
1" H2O does not equal 1" HG



angela
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2007
11:37:51

Check Engine Light HELP
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1 have a 2000 dakota the check engine light is on i have been told it is because of the o2 sensors ( which have been replaced a number of times). but i have another problem, my idle jumps and drops like crazy, it will do it while braked at a red light, and once you put it in park and let it run. and it also has a problem that while you are driving down the road doing say 40 mph my rpms go to 2 1/2 and speed drops to 30 (sounds like its puting) if you press the gas harder it does it for a second then lunges forward and goes fine until it decides to do it again which could be never or in 10 min. anyone have any answers for my truck that does what it wants like it has a mind of its own???!!!!



Fasstdak
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4/03/2007
11:55:22

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Sounds like a vacuum leak in the brake booster. Replace the check-valve at the vacuum hose connected to the actual booster (about a 1" large fitting on the top/left side of the booster). That's the normal leaking area...also, check ALL of your vacuum hoses for cracks/leaks as well and make sure the black vacuum cap(s) on the manifold aren't cracked either - let alone missing (they do that).





daddio
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4/03/2007
12:31:30

Check Engine Light HELP
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angela, before you buy anything you need to find the reason the CEL is on. to do this turn your key on/off/on/off/on. the codes will display in the odometer. by "on" i mean "on" not "start". if for some unknow reason the codes don't display go to your local Autozone and they can read the codes for free. it should work on your truck because it works on my '00 QC.

once you get the codes post back here and we should be able to help you figure it out.



Fasstdak
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4/03/2007
12:49:23

Check Engine Light HELP
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What led them to the O2 sensors anyway? I see these vehicles on a daily basis (yes, DC Tech) - the O2's won't cause this type of problem. The other item which comes to mind is the TPS...either way, definitely get the codes but do NOT let anyone sell you anything based upon just the codes - doesn't always work that way.




angela
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4/05/2007
23:48:54

Check Engine Light HELP
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i did what you said and got alot of codes
p0132, p0135, p0141, p0155, p0161 !!!!



Fasstdak
Dodge Dakota
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4/06/2007
06:59:41

Check Engine Light HELP
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P0132 - O2 1/1 Circuit High
P0135 - O2 1/1 Heater Malfunction
P0141 - O2 1/2 Heater Malfunction
P0155 - O2 2/1 Heater Malfunction
P0161 - O2 2/2 Heater Malfunction

Sounds like you either have a harness shorted to voltage (or cut) or a bad PCM. Check the harness from the O2 sensors back to the PCM. You'll also need a DVOM to check the resistance from the heater circuit wire at the O2 sensor harness connector to the PCM connector. None of the heater (or any other of the O2 wires) should be over 5ohms (tested from the harness at the O2 to the PCM connector).

While 1 or 2 O2's can be bad...not all 4 and not all of the heater circuits. That's going to be something else.

BTW: A "Circuit High" code will be a short to voltage. A "Circuit Low" code will be a short to ground.






Shoe
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4/06/2007
18:04:15

Check Engine Light HELP
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I have had 0132 fault out of me and just replaced the junky 02 sensors and it fixed my little problem. I was so happy.

'97 RC V6, 5spd, soon to be V8, 5spd!

Fasstdak
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4/07/2007
10:08:13

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With just one code...I can understand the O2 being bad. I'd verify it and replace it as well. However, when all of them are showing a heater driver circuit malfunction...and they've been replace numerous times (as stated), there's something else causing this. You have to look at the schematics and see how they're all connected before just saying replace them. (You'll know what I mean by that if you look.)





zoochboy
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4/07/2007
12:06:23

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When I swapped my 4x4 V6 for a 360 V8 they said the o2 sensors were different and check engine would not turn off. I had the oil pressure guage, the water temp, I slid off off the instrument bezel, unscrewed the four cluster screws and took the bulb out. Felt much better.



Fasstdak
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4/07/2007
15:55:07

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You can do more harm to an engine by removing a bulb than actually fixing the problem. PCM has the ability to substitute its own calculated values. These ain't your daddy's old Chevy anymore...there's much more to diagnosing and fixing them than just reading a code (or removing a light in this case).




dukeameye
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12/29/2008
17:12:25

Check Engine Light HELP
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My 2003 Dakota with 49450 miles on it just had the Malfunction indicator light(MIL) come on. I checked all fluids and the gas cap seemed tight. Then I found that although the gas cap seemed tight I turned it a bit more adn heard it click, so I took it off and made sure it set tight then turned it til it clicked. I then removed the negative battery terminal about one minute. The clock reset but my radio presets were fine. The MIL light was no longer on and I saved myself the $93 that the service dept charges.



Darryl
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1/12/2009
15:44:25

Check Engine Light HELP
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I have an 05, and the MIL ligt is on. i took it to the dealeer and they Said code P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire and P01323 O2 sensor which was caused by the misfire. they checked the fuel and replaced the plugs and sent me on my way. A month latter the light comes back on. I bought my own scanner and the same code comes back on P0300. ANy ideas on what else it could be. I would rather not take it back to the dealer.

thanks




Darryl
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1/12/2009
15:55:05

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also My dad herd an air release or "hissing" sound when I shut the engine off??????



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