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BigCityTexan
Dodge Dakota
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9/27/2006
13:51:07
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 Subject: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
The engine idles super rough about 90% of the time and clears up some sporadicly. When it is idling rough is has absolutley no power when I am driving it. Floored in 4th gear I can maintain 65 and thats it. I lose speed on hills as well. This is a new problem on a 96CC3.9 4x4 with manual transmission. The motor is a Jasper rebuilt drop in.
Any suggestions on where to start?
Also, when I put it in 4WD something smells like it is about to catch fire. I am reasonable sure that I need to replace the fluid in the transfer case but if there is a bigger problem that I am missing feel free to tell me.
Thanks for the help guys!
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BigCityTexan
Dodge Dakota
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9/27/2006
13:58:06
|  RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Ok, I am a retard, its a 97 not a 96. Don't know if this matters but thought I would correct it. :)
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?
Dodge Dakota
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9/27/2006
22:06:22
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
How full is gas tank when it does this , or does it
do it full or near empty whenever it feels like it ?
If more below 1/2 tank = possible fuel pump.
If any time -possible coil ,or bad injector,also possible Crank Pos. Sensor
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BigCityTexan
Dodge Dakota
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9/28/2006
05:05:30
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
It happens at all levels of fuel in the gas tank.
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BigCityTexan
Dodge Dakota
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9/29/2006
01:27:21
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
Bump for your thoughts!
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fotodak
Dodge Dakota
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9/29/2006
13:07:54
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
I assume you haven't checked the computer fault codes. This should tell you a little about what your problem could be.
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02dak
Dodge Dakota
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9/29/2006
13:16:22
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
Buy a new truck.
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BigCityTexan
Dodge Dakota
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9/30/2006
02:42:45
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
With the money I am able to spend on a code reader I am sure that the code will be as generic as they come and not be very beneficial.
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fotodak
Dodge Dakota
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9/30/2006
08:48:52
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
You can go to Auto Zone who will do it for free.
Code readers aren't expensive any more.
Don't be so sure about the codes before you read them. You can't start to fix a problem until you correctly diagnose it. let the truck help you. Doesn't work EVERY time, but more often than not it does.
I had a bad temp sensor code. Although the gauge read normal, it cured the transmission shifting in and out of OD and the stalling and hard starting.
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red
Dodge Dakota
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9/30/2006
19:21:37
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
It could be the O2 sensor.
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J and J Auto
GenII
10/07/2006
06:17:28
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
IP: Logged
Message:
These computer controled they switch everthing
on the ground side and they can do some very
unusual things that would point you in the
wrong diection
Today its worth every penny for a scanner
AutoXray
obd1 $150
obd2 $200
learn how to use it learn about the sensors on
your truck what they do watch them work than
you can diagnose your own truck just like a
dealer would
If it saves you one trip to the garage its paid
for
Its just a computer easy to learn see how sensor
readings effect your truck and fine tune things
like the IAT
watch your injectors in mil secs while you idle
excellerate its all in fun
Larry
J&J Auto
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Huggins
Dodge Dakota
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10/08/2006
21:24:21
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
Just a couple of quick things I noticed from your post. You say it happens "majority" of the time with no power / rough idle. It's also a 97 model. Have you ever replaced the catylitic converter?
Most definately need to check codes if there are any. OBDII is usually extremely good about pointing out what only your codes are, but also "depending on scanner used" pointing out what all to check "as in what's wrong" and what caused the fault code...
I would say if you don't mind climbing underneath the truck and taking out the precat O2 and screwing in a pressure gauge, you might just find your problem "you will need to crank the engine and watch gauge while idling"... Especially if you have been hearing any rattling problems. BUT then again, I'm just jumping to conclusions without knowing for sure what the problem is from any codes "if there are any"...
Bad cats cause some unusual problems with this being one of them... I'm not absolutely sure on what the proper back pressure should be "would have to go look it up", but perhaps someone else on here, such as Larry, could set you straight.
If no one else on here knows, I guess I could look it up, but with the mounds upon mounds of papers I would have to go through... Well lets just say it could take some time ;)
(I think it's around 2 - 3 psi absolute max, but that could be a performance back pressure number, not sure)
Hope this helps,
Greg
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Mike Stager
Dodge Dakota
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10/09/2006
01:50:46
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
First thing I'd check is the IOD fuse. It's the 10 amp fuse in the fuse block with the white plastic surround that allows it to be disconnected (pulled out ) without removing it completely. I had a blown fuse in my truck and had no power and a poor idle. Replacing the fuse made a huge difference. I'm also needing to replace my catalytic converter as I don't have full power and I've got the 'rattling'.
If you want to diagnose the problem cheaper than buying a scanner, get a good vacuum gauge and see what kind of vacuum you are getting at idle, off idle and when you snap the throttle. If you have a haynes or chiltons manual, there is a section that will tell you what to look for with a vacuum gauge test. It's the easiest way to pinpoint what is going on in any engine, fuel injected or not.
Check the fuse, do a vacuum test, and then go from there. ( a gauge or pump with a gauge should cost about $30-40 bucks and is worth every penny, you can use it to bleed your brakes if you get one with a resevoir cup just for thank kind of thing ).
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Huggins
Dodge Dakota
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10/09/2006
19:35:04
| RE: Rough Idle & No Power
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Message:
Never thought about the fuse or even knew about it as far as that goes...
Couldn't find the backpressure readings, even after taking the 30 minutes to look through one of my stacks of papers "I've got two others, but I'm hoping someone on here will say what it should be before I have to look for them"... As for the vacuum readings, here ya go...
*Normal / 14" - 20" (should be around 21" from my own experiance)
*Normal w/high lift cam / 15"
*Late Ignition Timing / 10" - 17" at idle (normal cam)
*Late Valve Timing / 8" - 15" at idle
*Intake Leak / Low steady reading around 2" - 5"
*Normal Reading When Accelerator is Rapidly Depressed and Released / Drops to 2" then rises to 25"
*Worn Rings, Dilluted Oil With Accelerator Rapidly Depressed and Released / Drops to 0" then rises to 22"
*Weak Valve Springs / Violent Oscillation (10" as rpm's increase, often steady at idle)
*Improper Idle Mixture / Floats Between 8" - 14"
*Burned or Warped Valve / Regular, even spaced down-scale flick around 4" (can be anywhere on gauge)
*Worn Valve Guides / Oscillates around 4" (can be anywhere on gauge)
*Sticking Valves / Normally Steady - Intermittently flicks downward around 4" (can be anywhere on gauge)
*Leaky Valve / Regular drop of about 2"
*Small Spark Gap or Defective Points / Slight float between 14" - 15"
*Head Gasket Leak / Floats between 5" - 9"
*Restrictive Exhaust System / Normal when first started then drops to as low as 4" and stabilizes
WOW, that's a lot...
Hope this all helps,
Greg
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