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23:05:41 - 12/19/2024
V6 Dakotas
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treed
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2005
09:13:54
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 Subject: 98 Dakota
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I have an opportunity to trade my 2000 S-10, 4 cylinder, automatic for a 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport, V-6, automatic. Both have basically the same mileage showing on the odometer, but the Dakota has a fairly obivious dent on the passenger door that goes into the bed. It does have some nice after market rims on it. The rest of the truck looks good, except for a small dent behind the drivers door. I would say my S-10 is worth more, being newer and without body damage, like the Dakota. But I pull a 6 x 12 trailer with two lawn tractors on it to mow grass at various locations, i.e. mom's, church, etc. The S-10 is at it's limits when pulling this load, and I'm thinking the Dakota would be a better at doing this. What are the things to look for in 98 Dakatos? There is a noise in the front end which I'm thinking is a stablizer bar bushings going bad. Is this a problem with Dakotas? Anything else to look for. Thanks.
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cuzindoug
GenIII
12/15/2005
09:24:02
| RE: 98 Dakota
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Upper ball joints, timing chain, how many miles? You might want to double check the tranny which are notorious for going out. Passenger side control arm bushing(too close to the exhaust manifold with no heat shielding). If never had a problem with the stabilizer bushings going bad. Those are the main things that go wrong with these trucks, but you will have others that pop up as will every other vehicle.
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.
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Dakota_Gurrl
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2005
10:23:25
| RE: 98 Dakota
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I have a '97 with 183,400kms and the main problems I've had over the last 2 yrs I've owned it were, lower ball joints (1 went, then a wk later the other), water pump, DRL's died (some module...who cares), corroded wires for my brake lights, and the tranny started slipping alittle (I tried some Slick50 and it stopped). My Ranger on the other hand, had the same kms, and I replaced 4 ball joints, a tie rod, the starter, and the water pump...all over a course of 6 wks, then it drove me into a wall and died. F.O.R.D.=Found On Road Dead
F.O.R.D. backwards=Driver Returns On Foot
*True Story* (based on a fictional character)
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fseventy
Dodge Dakota
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12/17/2005
21:42:27
| RE: 98 Dakota
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I have a 98' 3.9 with the 5 speed, 177K miles. No major problems. It had all the origional parts until this year when the power steering pump went, and the water pump (I'm still on the origional cap, wires, and clutch and I get 20mpg average street/freeway driving in Phoenix).
The auto trans sucks. Typical lifetime is 100K, more if you really take care of it. Lotsof towing on a worn auto trans might kill it quick.
The magnum engines are know for a couple of things. The belly pan under the intake starts to leak, usually around 100K miles. Take off the intake hat at the throttle body, open up the butterflys and look down into the plenum. If you see oil, the belly pan gasket is shot. If you see lots of oil, don't wait too long before replacing it. Te belly pan leak will cause rough idle, but overall drivability should not surffer much. What to worry about if the belly pan leaks is that it containimates the oil and you will make lots of sludge in the oil pan. I pulled the pan at about 166K because my oil pressure was dropping, and I dug out about 2 inches of oily gook from the bottom of the pan, and the pick up screen was about half plugged. If your belly pan is leaking, I would suggest pulling the pan and cleaning it out now, and then again in another 100K.
Timing chain can make an interesting grinding noise when it starts to stretch. I've still got the origional chain, and it makes noise every once and awhile. You'll probable gain back some Hp replacing the chain, and peace of mind that it's not going to let loose on you.
Look out for broken exhaust manifold bolts. I've had two brake off in the manifold, but no noticable leaks. I think Dodge used crappy bolts that can't take the heating/cooling cycles of the engine, and they just crack and snap off inside the manifold. Most trucks have missing bolts, but everyone seems to just live with it because it dosen't seem to leak most of the time. If you ever pull the manifold though, thats a different story...
The IAC (Idle air control sensor) at the back of the throttle body will get plugged up and cause drivability problems and poor gas milage. Pulling it out and cleaning it every couple of years helps as well.
Paint can be a problem too. Sometimes the top layers of paint are not thick enough to protect the primer from UV light, so the paint starts to break down from the inside out and it comes off in BIG flakes. Dosen't seem to be a consensus on what color this happens with, just if the robot screwed up the paint that day in the factory or not.
The contacts for the fuel level sensor will start to corrode and cause the fuel gauge to fluxiuate from the actual reading to empty. You can pull the tank and clean the contacts, replace the whole pump/sensor assembly, or let it ride, you just have to get used to the low fuel level beep every time it jumps.
The ball joint problem I though started in 2000, but it may have been 99. I still have the origional ball joints, and they are worn but not dangerous at 177K. Some trucks with the crappy ball joints have complete joint failure anywhere from 60K miles on up.
Brakes are also a big deal. You'll go through lots of sets of rotors and pads, and never quite have good braking. Spend the money on quality rotors and pads and you'll be better off than replacing warped rotors and pads every 60K. Don't over torque the lug nuts either, as some people believe that that helps warp the rotors.
I Love my truck. It even pulls my 2000+ lb boat, but you sure notice it back there. I have a 50 series Flowmaster muffler, it makes it sound a ton better than the stock muffler. It's still relatively quiet in the cab, so if you like it loud you can get the 40 series. I just swapped out the muffler only, so it only cost around $80. A K&N drop in filter or the complete cold air kit is also a common upgrade that gives a little more seat of the pants feel. You can also trick the engine to run a little richer (more power) buy relocating the IAT sensor from the intake to the air hose. Stay away from the cheapy ebay "power modules", but supposedly the power programmer chips and such work ONLY if you have made other mods, ie.. V8 throttle body, cold air intake, cat back mufflers, etc..
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toolfan
GenIII
12/18/2005
01:07:05
| RE: 98 Dakota
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good info fseventy
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RPRacing
Dodge Dakota
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12/18/2005
03:02:04
| RE: 98 Dakota
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Forgot to mention the fact they will eat heater cores like candy at $600-$1000 a shot. Also if you get a black front bumper, dont expect teh paint to remain long. Water pump needs a special tool to remove teh fan clutch (dumb ass idea).
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shdow
Dodge Dakota
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12/19/2005
23:59:15
| RE: 98 Dakota
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I heard there is a trick to get that nut off water pump you jam it somehow
is it reverse threads where you turn left to loosen
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jayb
Dodge Dakota
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12/21/2005
21:47:18
| RE: 98 Dakota
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i use a impact hammer and a blunt tipped bit. all i do is hit the left side of a flat surface on the nut and it comes off effortlessly.
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