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Gregg
Dodge Dakota
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10/05/2005
01:59:30

Subject: 180 T-stat kill my heat?
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Thanks to this site I solved for ping on my '99 with a 180 thermostat, ignition parts etc. The truck was new to me this summer so I don't have past winter heater history before I changed it.

Now, getting colder out, I noticed the heat system blows warm but not even hot when at operating temp. Is this due to the lower rated T-stat? How can I verify the hot water inlet to the core is opening to full?



GB2000
GenIII
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10/05/2005
02:05:59

RE: 180 T-stat kill my heat?
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Can't answer your other questions, but it shouldn't have affected it...at least not THAT much. I got a 180*F t-stat in mine and that farker runs cooler on the temp gage than it did with the 195*F t-stat and my heater is STILL nice and toasty.




Josh Blackshire - Owner, Ohio Dakotas .NET
Red 98 Dakota Sport - Check it out!

cuzindoug
GenIII
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10/05/2005
09:18:46

RE: 180 T-stat kill my heat?
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Have you tried back flushing your heater core? Alot of sediment can build up in there and effect your heating.

If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.

Slim
Dodge Dakota
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10/05/2005
11:28:15

RE: 180 T-stat kill my heat?
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yep what cuzin said.

a guy on this site came up with technique a couple of years ago. you take the outlet off the heater core, get a adapter for a garden hose that fits inside the heater hose, hook it up. then take off the inlet and turn the hose on, it backflushes the heater. worked for endless amounts of people on here...



GB2000
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10/05/2005
13:58:10

RE: 180 T-stat kill my heat?
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The original post about it:

Here is an answer to the original question about the posters heater core. It is plugged. I had the same exact problem. I had flushed out my coolant system several times, but still no real heat coming from the heater. I then finally thought about it and realized the the convential way of flushing out a coolant system does not really flush out the heater core. The problem is that when you flush the coolant system out you normally connect the flushing water to the inlet side of the heater core hose and then backflush the system out through the radiator cap. This works fine for the engine and the radiator, but does not backflush the heater core. But for less than 99 cents and about 15 minutes you can easily backflush your heater core yourself. There was a suggestion on an earlier post to just reverse your inlet and outlet hose on the heater core and that would backflush it. This is true, but the gunk that is clogging up the heater core will just get flushed into you engine and will probably end up right back in your heater core. What you have to do is get a 5/8 inch female garden hose adapter. This can be purchased at just about any hardware store. Make sure it is the kind that slips inside the garden hose. Then with the engine cool you need to disconnect the outlet hose of the heater core from the engine. You need to do this at the water pump connection, which should be on the driver's side of the engine. Then insert the garden hose adapter into the end of the hose. Then disconnect the heater core inlet hose from the engine connection. On my Dakota this is easily done at the splice that is on the passengers side of the engine. This splice is where you normally connect to flush out the coolant system. Then hook a garden hose up to the outlet hose and turn on the water. Have someone help you turn on and off the water as you flush out the heater core. Try and collect atleast the first 2 gallons of stuff you flush out and dispose of this according to your local laws. After the first 2 gallons all you should get out of your heater core is dirty water. This should be ok to just dump on the ground but make sure first. You will probably have to flush the core for a good 5 minutes to fully clean it out. Then reconnect your heater hoses as they were and enjoy the heat.




Josh Blackshire - Owner, Ohio Dakotas .NET
Red 98 Dakota Sport - Check it out!

Gregg
Dodge Dakota
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10/05/2005
21:03:50

RE: 180 T-stat kill my heat?
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Excellent info gentlemen, with no history I have no "benchmark" for normal heat output. Thought hmmm, maybe the T-stat or a hung inlet valve.

This back-flush voodoo never made the check list, 'till now. Will try it right away.

I wouldn't have considered it. In theory, as water passes through the heater core tubing in one direction small particles could cling to the tubing wall. The coating therefore, could build up slowly. Now reversing the flow dislodges sludgy chunks and goo! Why does that even work? I would think garden hose flushing in the normal direction would "get 'er done". How does the directional change make any difference? Perhaps the reverse flow breaks the bond by lifting the slime up? Strange science here, gotta go try it.



cuzindoug
GenIII
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10/06/2005
00:30:51

RE: 180 T-stat kill my heat?
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Because normal heater core flow is from bottom to top and you will flush it top to bottom, which "stirs up" the gunk any out it goes:)

If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.

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