Ratdog
Dodge Dakota
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12/04/2004
01:12:49
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 Subject: Front Brake Service (long)
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’90 Dodge Dakota LE Club Cab
V6, Automatic, 2WD, Posi
With 137,000 miles on the clock, and wanting to establish a baseline for my (recently acquired) truck, I performed a front brake service today. I also took the opportunity to rotate the tires.
I’ve had some bearing howl start up and suspected the front brakes were in need of replacement. My local NAPA supplier sold me some new rotors with bearing races installed, a new set of inner and outer bearings, new front bearing seals, and some brake pads. You might also want to consider opening the brake fluid reservoir and wrap an absorbent rag around it.
After chocking the front and rear tires (side to stay on the ground), I lifted one side of the vehicle and supported it with jack stands. If you do not have air tools, it would be a good idea to break loose the lug nuts before lifting the vehicle. I had recently repacked the outer bearing and re-torqued it, hoping that was all that was needed. After pulling the dust cap, cotter pin, castle nut, spindle nut, and keyed washer, it was time to pull the caliper as well. A 6” C-clamp comes in handy for compressing the caliper piston. If the fluid level has been previously “topped off”, you may have fluid escaping from the top of the fluid reservoir. The caliper is bolted to the bracket, and once you’re able to get enough movement, you can break loose the bolts with a 10mm wrench. You don’t need to pull them all the way out though. Once the caliper is lifted off, the pads can be removed. There was a clip holding the outer pad to the caliper. On mine, the clip was attached to the pad’s backing plate. Support the caliper out of the way, keeping it from just hanging from the brake line. The rotor can now be slid off. I found a little rust just beginning to form on the back side of the inner bearing, and rust colored grease on the spindle. Fortunately, I caught things before they got bad.
After packing the new inner and outer bearings with fresh grease (I like the Amsoil, extreme pressure, fortified with moly), I pulled the rubber from the old seal and used the old one to seat the new one to the back side of the rotor after installing the new bearing. With the rotor installed, the new outer bearing assembly was re-assembled. Torqued to spec, a little extra grease for the inside of the dust cap.
The caliper piston will need to be FULLY compressed in order to get the new pads to slide over the rotor. I used a screwdriver and a mallet to pop the retention clip from the old “outer” pad, installed the Teflon coated backer to the pad plates. The inner pad has some spring clips to hold it to the caliper and the outer one just lays in place. With the caliper seated, the bolts are wound back into the bracket and torqued to spec. The old clip was installed to the new outer pad. A good hosing with “Brake Kleen” finishes it up.
The tires were rotated and pressure checked, then a little residual grease from the back of the old rotors lubed up the lugs before torquing them too.
After doing the other side of the truck, and buttoning back up the fluid reservoir, I did a little test drive. Schweet !! I plan to have the old rotors turned, new bearing races installed in them, and put ‘em up on the shelf for another day. The new rotors came with races installed, and the new bearings came with races… so, they go in the old rotors. When I get around to servicing the rear brakes, I’m going to install “Speed Bleeders” all around. I like using a bulb to evacuate the old fluid from the reservoir, dab the inside with a lint-free towel until clean. I then top it off with fresh fluid and bleed the brakes (starting with the “furthest from the master cylinder”) until the fluid comes out clean. Keep the reservoir from going dry during the process, and you’re not going to have to worry about a lot of air to deal with. Only what enters while installing the Speed Bleeders.
Parts list from NAPA as follows:
2ea. Rotors #485987
2ea. Bearings #BR11
2ea. Bearings #BR16
2ea. Pairs of Speed Bleeders #675-1568
1set Front Brake Pads #SS-7237A-M
Now, without the purchase of rotors, you can probably get it done for about $150.00 out of your pocket, provided you have access to the means of seating the new races into the rotor when replacing them. You’ll probably have to spend double that for the rotors to be included. I got a screamin’ deal on the parts, got the whole mess for just over $200.00 and time was more important to me than saving a little money. That’s why I spent for rotors, plus, being able to have some spare rotors on the shelf is of benefit.
I’m likin’ this little truck more and more, each day. (And, I’m a “bow-tie” kinda guy… yeah, still am) No more shimmy felt in the wheel when the brakes are applied, now more howl from the front wheel area, and the brakes feel GREAT !!! Can’t wait to get the rear brakes done up, bearing re-packed, and fluid flushed. I’ll be snaggin’ up some DOT4 synthetic for it when I get to that little project.
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