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Woody
Dodge Dakota
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11/20/2004
14:11:28
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 Subject: 261,000 miles Synthetic oil a good idea?
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I have a 3.9 with 261,000 miles,is it too late to switch to synthetic?
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J and J Auto
GenII
11/20/2004
17:02:58
|  RE: 261,000 miles Synthetic oil a good idea?
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Its never to late to switch to a better oil
Larry
J&J Auto
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furball69
Dodge Dakota
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11/20/2004
23:30:09
| RE: 261,000 miles Synthetic oil a good idea?
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If you have worn bearing surfaces you'll likely have an oil pressure problem or rather a lack of oil pressure where you need it the most and will probably grenade your engine. Just MHO.
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Budysr
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2004
13:06:44
| RE: 261,000 miles Synthetic oil a good idea?
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I am wanting to switch my high-mileage(168,000) 3.9 to fully sythetic (either amsoil or royal purple) too. My engine does not have any oil leaks but it does burn about a quart of oil every 1,000 to 2,000 miles. Is switching to the synthetic likely to be a problem with this consumption?
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furball69
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2004
16:04:54
| RE: 261,000 miles Synthetic oil a good idea?
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Here's a quote from popular mechanics magazine about older engines and oil:
When your car or light truck/SUV is somewhat older and has considerably more mileage, you may notice a few oil stains on the garage floor. It's about this time that you need to add a quart more often than when the vehicle was new. Crankshaft seals may have hardened and lost their flexibility, so they leak (particularly at low temperatures) and may crack. The higher-mileage oils are formulated with seal conditioners that flow into the pores of the seals to restore their shape and increase their flexibility. In most cases, rubber seals are designed to swell just enough to stop leaks. But the oil refiners pick their "reswelling" ingredients carefully. Valvoline showed us the performance data of one good seal conditioner that swelled most seal materials, but actually reduced swelling of one type that tended to swell excessively from the ingredients found in some other engine oils.
You also may have noticed some loss of performance and engine smoothness as a result of engine wear on your higher-mileage vehicle. These higher-mileage oils also have somewhat higher viscosities. (Even if the numbers on the container don't indicate it, there's a fairly wide range for each viscosity rating and the higher-mileage oils sit at the top of each range.) They also may have more viscosity-index improvers in them. The result? They seal piston-to-cylinder clearances better, and won't squeeze out as readily from the larger engine bearing clearances. They also may have a higher dose of antiwear additives to try to slow the wear process.
If you have an older vehicle, all of these features may mean more to you than what you might get from a full synthetic, and at a fraction the price.
end quote.
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The higher viscosity of these 'older engine' should be an area of interest. From what I've heard and read a full synthetic is so slippery that, in cases where there are worn bearing surfaces, such as cam bearings, crank bearings and rod bearings, the oil will slip out between the two bearing surfaces and cause a loss of pressure in those areas as well as compromised lubrication.
On the other hand, I'm sure there's plenty of pages on the web that advocate the use of syn in any engine.
Best thing to do is do some research on the web and make an educated decision for yourself.
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Budysr
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2004
19:38:00
| RE: 261,000 miles Synthetic oil a good idea?
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I'm not sure I buy into the "high-mileage" dino oils like the max-life or whatever it is that vavoline sells. I may be wrong but it sounds more like a marketing ploy by them to get you to pay more for a quart of oil. I'm just curious what switching to synthetic will do to a motor that doesn't leak oil, but does consume oil in between changes.... Larry, or Steven?
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Just Looking
Dodge Dakota
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11/29/2004
03:11:54
| RE: 261,000 miles Synthetic oil a good idea?
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Ive done it on some really high mileage vehicles...
One ran the high mileage oil and was changed to synthetic... On synthetic it ran quieter but oil pressure did dip a little since synthetic is a little thinner but... The fix is getting a thicker grade of synthetic... READ: "What high mileage oils really are"
(An old dirty trick done to a worn out vehicle being sold was to put really thick oil in it so compression reads higher,and it would not burn as much oil or blow as much blue smoke if any)
What high mileage oils really are...
They have 10% ester added to help seal swell. (most synthetics come with 10% ester already)
They are the thickest they can be in there viscosity rating. (running a thicker grade synthetic works the same)
Some synthetics are hydro-cracked dino oil(not a true synthetic and most of the time wont lube as well)
True synthetics: Mobil 1, Most amsoil products(some are hydro-cracked), royal purple, redline
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