From | Message |
GB2000 GenIII
10/21/2004 13:57:17
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Subject: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: Lost traction the other day merging from the interstate onto a highway and spun out...spun a complete 180 before locking my brakes up to try and avoid smacking into the guardrail backwards. Noticed my cruise control would only work maybe 20% of the time after that happened. The following day I blew my right front tire (2 days ago). While standing around talking with a friend after changing the tire and putting my ugly ass spare on, I noticed my brake lights were on. I tapped the brake pedal and they turned off. They've been doing this pretty much every time I get out of my truck since all that happened. I'm sure that's relating to why my cruise control won't work. Any clue on what's wrong and how to fix it? New tires and wheels are on the way soon, but I'm sure that ain't the cause. And just for anyone interested... tires - Bridestone Dueler APT3 in 235/70-16 and the rims are chrome American Racing Jammer II's (16x8).
Josh
http://www.cardomain.com/id/sentenced
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daddio Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
10/21/2004 14:03:07
| RE: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: prolly need a new brake switch. don't know if they are adjustable. if the brake switch is activated(brake lights on) the cruise will not engage. check it out.
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daffydak GenIII
10/21/2004 14:22:40
| RE: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: yeah when you mashed the brakes, you probably screwed the switch up.... I think it's a dealer only part, but I may be wrong... Does your torque converter lock still?? I think the brake switch, makes the tq converter clutch unlock too (maybe intermittantly)
just my .02
00 CC Sport Plus 4.7L 4X4 Auto, 3:55 LSD Flowmaster orig. 40 series (2 chamber) muffler, adjusted tps to .76V, ported TB, home brew intake setup w/K&N filter, more mods to come!!! Dan MOPAR=More Power!!
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GB2000 GenIII
10/21/2004 15:03:03
| RE: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: Also called the "stoplamp switch"? Looks affordable...Bout 20 bucks, plus my friend can prolly get me it for $10-15 using his last job's account. I got 6 quarts of ATF+4 today for about $25. Most places around here would have charged around $45. I also picked up a new ignition coil for around $34. Not too shabby from a stealership:)
Would the torque converter stuff explain the part where I'm driving down the highway at a steady speed and my engine will suddenly rev up briefly (no jerking or anything)?
So far that pretty much fits my problems to a 'T'...one last question though. Where is this switch located and how easy is it to swap out?
Thanks for the help guys...I'd have never thought of that. I was thinking a brake was sticking or something.
Josh
http://www.cardomain.com/id/sentenced
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daddio Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
10/21/2004 15:57:42
| RE: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: yeah, that's prolly it. i didn't know about the torque converter thing(i've got a 5 spd man). the switch should be right on the brake pedal above the pivot point. good luck. shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes to do. prolly faster if your a contortionist LOL. makes it easier to work under the dash.
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daffydak GenIII
10/22/2004 00:32:25
| RE: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: yes, it's right where daddio said.. It's mounted on a flange on the pedal support bracket...
You remove it by depressing the brake pedal, and rotating the switch about 30 degrees counterclockwise to unlock the retainer.
then to install/adjust the new switch... (these instructions are specific to the 97-98 dakotas ONLY!
1) pull the switch plunger all the way out, then push it in 4 clicks
2) press and hold the brake pedal in the fully applied positon.
3) allign the tab on the switchwith the notch on the switch bracket, then insert the switch in the bracket and turn it clockwise about 30 degrees to lock in into place.
4) relase the brake pedal and gently pull it to the rear (this will adjust the switch on 97 and 98 models)
5) try the brakes and verify that the switch is operating properly.
Did I leave anything out?? I think I got it all.. this is how I did it on my 98....
Good luck :-)
00 CC Sport Plus 4.7L 4X4 Auto, 3:55 LSD Flowmaster orig. 40 series (2 chamber) muffler, adjusted tps to .76V, ported TB, home brew intake setup w/K&N filter, more mods to come!!! Dan MOPAR=More Power!!
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GB2000 GenIII
10/22/2004 00:47:01
| RE: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: New switch has been ordered... didn't care to make a trip to the dealer so I got it for $20.80 ($6.95 was just for the s/h).
That sucker is annoying...if I slam my door, my brake lights turn on!
Josh
http://www.cardomain.com/id/sentenced
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J and J Auto GenII
10/22/2004 03:43:05
| RE: Brake lights stay on...no cruise IP: Logged
Message: Try the brake switch first and see what happens
If it revs up in O/D Lockup try increasing the
presure to the lockup clutch.
2 turns counter clockwise on the presure adjust
screw on valve body, you can also open the small
hole on the lockup cover it has 3 screws right
on the bottom of the valve body and is at .050
go .065 don't go above 80 or you take a chance
of blowing the rings on the direct drive drum
This will make it lockup firmer and have more
holding power less slipage.
If you have installed the 3 low friction high heat
seal rings on the drum you can open this hole up
to .100 .125 than it will learch the truck forward
when she locks up but this is just for nut cases
like myself LOL
What no shift kit in this baby LOL
I just got done tweaking my trans
light throttle just off idle
1-2 20mph
2-3 35mph
3-O/D 45mph
O/D lockup 54mph
These points rise fast with more throttle and
shift 4800 to 5000rpm WOT I have no rev limiter
on my truck
I am at 5 turns up 1/2 Transgo 1/2 TCI setup my
personaly built trans the way I like it to work
but I am a hard core kind of guy when it comes to
my vehicles, love my light throttle downshifting
that mopar just don't set these trans up to do
and it makes a world of diff in performance
Larry J&J Auto
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