From | Message |
OffRoad322 Dodge Dakota
7/21/2001 01:49:48
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Subject: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota Regular Cab 3.9L V6. After quite a few other modifications, I am ready to add some real bass to my stereo system. I have seen only a few sites where Reg. Cab Dak owners have put subs behind their bucket seats. But I really don't know what brands are good for boxes. If anyone has any suggestions on where to find good deals on the truck boxes that will fit behind my bucket seats, please let me know. What brands are good in boxes?
I have also seen a few places advertising for the wedge shaped box that is ported; would this work in my truck (enough air to the sub that is)? Also I saw one person selling a Bandpass Wedge shaped box with one 8" sub (booo), but will the bandpass wedge box sound good? What would sound the best?
I was thinking of two 10" woofers (one behind each seat).
Thanks for the help.
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DarkFury Dodge Dakota
7/21/2001 02:12:20
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Well a sealed box would require less space than a ported one... (it would also require more power to push it as well.)
I would think with the limited space you have behind the seats, you would want a sealed box that uses less space (along with a woofer designed to work in smaller enclosures)
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Jacob Dodge Dakota
7/21/2001 13:28:01
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: I have the same truck and without doing much research or put much thought into it, went and with my limited knowledge of speakers bought the best 10" sub and amp to push it, to later find out that the dang magnet was so large it wouldnt fit behind my seat without moving my seat way up, cheack the fit before you buy anything, make sure there is enough room for the box also.
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Kraw Dodge Dakota
7/22/2001 14:44:17
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: I have the 8" bazooke Dual voice coil with about 150 watts running it. I love it.. does fine for me. I had 3 JL 10w6's behind the seat of my 90 RC Dak, it slammed too hard for me.. getting old I guess.
I have pics of my setup on my site
http://www.krawdaddy.net/Dakota/dak.htm
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dakota98sp Dodge Dakota
7/23/2001 13:18:47
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: I have a 98 sport RC and am running two 6x9's and an 8" tube behind the bucket seats and it hits hard and sound clean.
In some instances subs are not your best bet unless you have the air space needed for them.
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Big Ray Dodge Dakota
10/16/2001 22:44:08
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: aiight my kinda thing sound systems. well check this i figure u have bout 7 inches on the bottom and u have a bout 14 inches for height and ur slant would have to be a SLANT nothing else a flat slant for a box bc i have a 94 and thats bout what i have and i have a box for 2 10's for 2 rockford fosgate He subs tht will fit perfect behind my seat but the kick is u have to stuff the living crap out of it with polyphil to get the right airspace there ya go
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/17/2001 00:42:47
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Damn, I can't wait 'till my truck comes in. Subs will be in there in less than a few weeks, but I honestly have no idea how much room you have. Can you maybe get me these figures, like how much room there is behind you seat, top of seat and bottom, height, and width... With that we can figure the depth of a driver you need and the specific driver you will want that takes up that amount of space. I'm hoping there will be at least 1.0 cu. foot behind each seat, again, I so not have my truck yet and I do not kwnow.
Anyways, here are some drivers that are pretty shallow in mounting depth and enclosure size.
Also, I would go with sealed on most of these setups, as that is what most of these are designed for.
Illusion Audio Drivers
(REAL shallow mounting depth and known to be very precise, but around $210 for just a 10" and $280 for a 12")
www.illusionaudio.com
The a/d/s 310rs.2 are awesome drivers and the 10 is only 4 3/4" deep and uses small boxes that would easily fit your needs and make any person happy. Known mostly for great clarity and decent low freq. extention, but not the loudest things on earth, but you have a regular cab and it'll be plenty loud.
http://www.adst.com/pages/310rs.html
You can get these for around 150 from online dealers.
Image Dynamics should also be a priority sub to look into. Their 10" IDQ is around ~109 on the net and it's a damn good driver that you can not go wrong with. This is also sort of a sub known mostly for clarity, but two 10s in your regular cab will be loud enough for normal listening, even a lil showing off ;)
Another choice would also be MTX, but I like their Amps and I do not know a whole lot personally about their drivers, 'cept there is better.
There are plenty more, like Oz Audio and AlumaPro's Alchemy, just look around or visit:
www.caraudioforum.com or www.sounddomain.com and ask or use the search.
These (exc. the mtx) are mostly subs designed for very smooth and clear accurate bass (listen to jazz?) and not a super loud boomy sub, but rather oriented in quality and low frequency preformance -- what I like. If you want real loud, maybe you can fit some L7s in there or port it thru the bed or under the seat?
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Travis Dodge Dakota
10/21/2001 22:32:05
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Great post xplikt. I'm curious, about how much would i need to spend on an amp to run either 2 8's or 2 10's? I just want a little more bass than my factory stereo has, so i'm probably the guy that would be satisfied with a couple 8's. Of course, if 10's will fit WITHOUT me having to move my drivers seat up, i'd be all for it.
Any suggestions? BTW, i by no means need top of the line stuff here.
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/22/2001 00:00:36
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Depends on your music tastes and what you are looking to add.
If you listen to mostly techno or electronic, I would say a single 10 and to invest in a good set of mid bass drivers.
If you listen to Jazz, Classical, or something that needs accuratly reproduced sounds; or you are a musician and KNOW what things are supposed to sound like, then I would also say go with an a/d/s or that Image Dynamics 10"s
If you like rap or hiphop I would say go with something that can go rather low and maybe a 12 if it can fit. Instead of having two tens, maybe go with one twelve in a large enclosure. The 10s would of course be louder, but only to a point, usually most 12s can go lower.
For the most part, we do not have that much space to work with, and to reproduce tose very low frequencies at loud levels. We also do not have the space to fit drivers that are made to fit more in ported type of enclosures. Our options are limited, but you can do the best you can with what there is -- which is more than you think, but you just got to really look. If you would like to have a huge enclosure there is always the option of "porting the cab" or doing a "cut through", but I wont reccomend this to anyone -- obviously.
Oh, and an amp... well, depends which driver you get. I would choose the driver you want before choosing an amp since our choice of drivers are so limited to begin with. Once you find a decent driver that may suit your needs, then we can search for an amp! There are more decent brands than crappy ones (Pyle, Pyramid, etc.) and you will not be able to tell the difference in sound quality (so things like dampening and S/N ratio are pointless). So the main things to look for would be features like built-in filters and SIZE (we now have less room than before because there are SUBS in there now! AHHHH!
I personally have not ever found any use for any eights. Most eights I have seen are from companies who make 10s and 12s that are used in larger enclosues, but also put a product on the market that would fit in small boxes that another brand's 10 or even 12 would fit in, because they were designed that way and are a totally diffeent driver. Just my 2 cents, but I just got my truck Friday and there is quite a bit of space NOT there, but it looks like I will probably be putting in one 12 if it can fit, or else just one 10, havn't done any measurements, but I'm only 5'9", so I don't have a problem moving the seat up. :P
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Travis Dodge Dakota
10/22/2001 00:06:21
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: One 10, if it fits, sounds like a good idea. I mostly listen to alternative, with rap every once in a while. I'm 5'10, but i like the seat all the way back (just more comfortable), so if i can get it to fit w/o moving up, that's a big plus.
I'm the type of person that just wants something that sounds good. You could probably stick my in a car with 3 different kinds of 10's, and i'd think they were all the same.
I guess the driver i'll choose is probably the smallest. I've been reading up on the a/d/s and it sounds like something i might want. If i put the 10 behind my seat, then the amp could be mounted behind the passenger seat.
Do you know of any online dealers that carry a/d/s? i most likely won't be installing it, so i'll have to take it somewhere...
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Travis Dodge Dakota
10/22/2001 00:19:01
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Also, where can i find (online hopefully, with dimensions) a compact box to put the sub in??
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/22/2001 01:09:16
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: I would just build one. Doesn't need to be made of FIBERGLASS and Plexi, just some good ole MDF, or HDF will do. Prefferably 3/4 thickness, one board that's 4'x8' runs around 10$-20$ and along with the rest of the parts like screws, terminal, wires, glue, silicone, it will add up to around $50 for all that stuff. The box will most likely be sealed, so there are no hard calculations for tuning or constructing a port. If you do not have the tools, it is still relativly easy. I have used regular saws to cut pieces of wood; I am much better with that than a sabre/jig saw -- almost perfect cuts. Damn I need to get a table saw! Need like a Dewalt Table Saw group buy! There is probably someone you know that has the tools to use that you can borrow. Be sure to predrill, countersink, glue like hell, use 100% silicone, MEASURE TWICE (thrice?), cut the only one time you get!
It would make for a fun lil woodworking project and it is not an extremly difficult task.
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/22/2001 01:22:05
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: For the a/d/s 310rs.2:
Car Media 1; $169
http://www.carmedia1.com/adswoofers.htm
Sound Habit; $159
http://www.soundhabit.com/Store/product/view.cfm?ProductID=927
This guy sometimes has them...
http://www.ebaystores.com/slydog3333
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rr Dodge Dakota
10/22/2001 15:57:18
| 2x12s IP: Logged
Message: From a guy thats 6'1" 200 pounds 2x12 fit perfectly. Have some fun and make the box yourself from supplies found at home depot.
Some plywood
Tube of silicone
Carpeting or paint and your set
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/22/2001 17:11:27
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: What were the 12s? It's mostly depth we are worried about. The mounting depth of an Illusion Audio 15" is only 4", but those usually like over two cubic feet of space. I would really like one of those, but the difference from the 12" (~280 dollars) to the 15" is huge -- the 15 is over $500!
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Travis Dodge Dakota
10/24/2001 17:05:39
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Well here is an update. I'm going to run the a/d/s 310rs.2, with an Alpine V12 MRV-100M amp. I'm also working on a custom box to fit w/o having to move my seat up.
How does that sound?
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/24/2001 17:35:30
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: YUPP! That would work just fine. If you ever want it a bit louder you can get an amp that pushes 600Ws to it, but that amp will run it perfectly fine. The JBL 600.1 is known to be a good low cost amp that puts out it's rated power. They appear on ebay off and on for no more than 200 dollars.
That's a dual 4 ohm sub remember, so be sure to wire it parallel now.
I got to start a lil fund for a system now...
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Travis Dodge Dakota
10/24/2001 17:41:55
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: xplikt - can you describe what needs to be done to wire it parallel? This will be my first sub install (i've done receivers, but that's it).
Thanks!
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/24/2001 22:15:58
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Your sub has two wiring options. If you wire it one way, you will recieve a 2 ohm load (resistance) to the amp and the other way would be 8 ohm, which would cut down on he available output from the amp to the sub and you will not get nearly the output of sound as you would want!
From the amp you stated in your last post, the 2ohm configuration will work fine on, but you do not want to go lower than the rated on the amp it it can overdraw and fry itself! That's no good! You choose the right amp tho, and this wont happen.. Well, the best way I can show you how, is to give you a picture instead of my confusing words!
If you look at the second page of this PDF file from JL, you will notice a bunch of wiring diagrams, you are going to want to go with the one on the top left:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/12W3_BDS.pdf
Below that, some text reads what ohm you can run one sub depending on it's built ohm rating. Will will notice, the second one says:
"With coils wired in parallel, a dual 4ohm speaker will present a 2ohm load."
THAT'S THE ONE!
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Travis Dodge Dakota
10/24/2001 22:31:43
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Thanks for the info.
I already ordered the amp and sub (tonight actually), so i hope it makes for a good combo. So running that sub at 2 ohm is perfectly fine with the amp i've chosen? I just wanna be clear on that.
Also, do you have any good pages that i could go read up about ohms, and how it all works?
Thanks!
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Mark Crisler Dodge Dakota
10/25/2001 01:49:16
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: If you are lucky enough to have the three seat set up found in most of the late models (2 buckets with the center jump seat) JL Audio makes a fiberglass stealth box that is a down fire 10" that replaces the center seat cushion and is wrapped by the factory upholstery so no one will know it's there. And you won't be losing leg room and adding weight to your truck. The part is refered to as a Durango box, but the Dakota uses the same seats....
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/25/2001 17:39:19
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Read first post, he has bucket seats, so that would look kind of odd eh, but a good idea for others.
Yes, you choose a good combo, that should work out for you just fine.
Here are a couple links for you:
http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm (this is the best site I know of online that is REAL accurate and I encourage you to read through this site)
http://www.installdr.com/
http://www.jlaudio.com (they have a couple easy to understand ones)
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lobby Dodge Dakota
10/30/2001 18:03:29
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: This is what i did with my 97 3.9 sport, standard cab. I'm 6'1", so I need all the space I can get.
Truth is because of our limited mounting depth, you're not going to be putting in the same speakers that are gona fit in a rice burner.
I went to future shop and the power station and with their sales guys, went and test fit a couple of subs back their behind the seats (i have the high buckets with the small midle console),
and the best fits where a set of pheniox golds, or kenwood turbines (or is it tonedeo?) anyway, bought two 12"'s and two 10" wedge boxes, and an alpine V12 amp to send the power. These subs are rated @ max of 600watts each, and I believe the RMS value (the only important one) is 400 watts.
I took the boxes and with a jig saw enlarded the openings to fit the twelves.
This worked, but I checked out the volume req'd for the sub, and I didn't have enough,
so I disconnected the passenger sub, and using two 2" ports, some speaker covering fabric, and a section of ABS tubing connected the two.
I wrapped the tube with the carpet, and used both spray addhesive and sticthed the seam where the fabric rolls over.
I then checked the clearances I had, to see where I could put the pipe and marked the center and drilled the holes for the ports. it was then just a matter of stuffing the tube into the ports, and bridging the amp (to send the most power possible to the sub behind the drivers seat) and removed the wire connecting the passenger sub.
By doing this, it allows the one sub the proper air space, (at least closer to it).
It made a huge difference, and since I left the sub still in the box behind the passenger seat, it still "thumps" to because of the air trading spaces between the two boxes.
If I crank it up, every mirror in the truck shakes so much, anything behind you is a blur, -you can't make out anything!!
Needless to say its loud.
But if you're gonna go through all the trouple of subs, might as well finish the job, and get a set of highs, and mids. I used a set of alpines in the front doors, and a set of ppi's in the back
connedcted to a rockford 45.2 amp.
All in all, it end up costing me $3000.00, and, I did everything myself! I guess it's all just what you want/what you can afford.
Oh yea, get some dynomate too- this stuff rocks.
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
10/31/2001 11:07:48
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: "Oh yea, get some dynomate too- this stuff rocks."
Yeah, but that's how you spend 3000 on that setup. There are many other alternatives that are just as good as it:
McMaster Carr has some "hi temp mastic" that is EXACTLY, EXACTLY the same as Dynamat Original and is considerably cheaper.
There is also a company called B-Quiet (which is prolly what I am going to go with) that makes some good materials.
www.partsexpress.com has a good cheap alternative
www.MatrixAudio.com has some, but I don't know anything about them...
Hell, a lot of people use GAF StormGuard now as a real cheap alternative.
Dynamat is good stuff, but not worth the money in my eyes, I'd rather buy some better equipment.
2" port? That seems really small, do you get a lot of noise from it?
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bLaZe Dodge Dakota
11/01/2001 00:09:46
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Get 2 10 inch solo-baric subs or 2 12 inch solo-baric, which ever one fits best. They both require a very low amount of air space and put out a lot of sound. The new series of these subs are square and cost about 250$-300$ each (according to where u buy them). They also require a large amount of power, but they freakin rock.
I currently have 2 solo-baric 15 inch subs powered by a memphis d-1000(2000 CC 4.7 Dakota sport) I've got a panosonic head unit. I got it tested with stock cd player and hit 147.8 decibels.I havent got a chance to test it with my aftermarket cd player, but i know its gotta be at least 1 or 2 decibles higher.
Anyway, hope that helps.
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
11/01/2001 11:07:39
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: If you buy a busted SoloBaric, you can get it replaced brandnew/refurb from the factory for 75 dollars or something too.
Those subs are great and that's a damn good score dude!
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bLaZe Dodge Dakota
11/01/2001 14:14:56
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: thanx xplikt......it suprised me, since i was running a factory cd player with a step down.
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Travis Dodge Dakota
11/01/2001 14:26:11
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Ok, i've finished buying everything for my truck. I was originally going to run just one ten, but since decided on some mid-range also.
*10" a/d/s 310rs.2 sub
*Alpine MRV-100M amp
*Orion XTR 6s components (6.5")
*Orion Cobalt 150.2 amp
*custom built box behind the passenger seat
How does this sound? I know it's not top of the line or anything, but i think it should sound pretty good in my truck (regular cab).
xplikt, thanks for all the help! a/d/s sub is looking awesome.
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
11/01/2001 16:31:28
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: bLaZe, those subs can handle an awesome amount of power and they are actually on my list for when I decide what to put in my truck for an audio system. I had to buy snow tyres and I'm going to have an alarm put in next weekend (dunno who to do it, or if I will) -- which kinda sets me back ("will work for mobile audio system upgrade"). I also found that the stock 2002 ( I don't know how much it differs from the other years) system is quite livable for the time being.
You all should look into some sort of security for your equipment too. I would hate to have helped ya choose an audio system then have it stolen by some ass!
Travis, it's not going to be the loudest, or look the prettiest, but it's going to sound good and be something to be proud of.
bLaZe, have you looked into sound dampening your truck, maybe you can bring that score tp to a good 150+
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bLaZe Dodge Dakota
11/02/2001 19:16:55
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Yeah i thought about that xplikt,but right now i am saving up to add to the performance and the appearance of my dakota. Gonna put all my funds into that area.(which isnt alot) I'm prob the only one here still running stock heh.
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Dak Spo Red Dodge Dakota
11/02/2001 19:51:50
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: I have a 97 dak reg cab and i was just wondering if i would beable to put a stereo in my truck seeeing as i am 6'3 and need my seat all the way back no matter what.. if someone could suggest something that would be great
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BlakDakMagnum Dodge Dakota
11/08/2001 09:33:42
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Here's a suggestion, don't do it! I have a single 12" kenwood behind my console and it hits really good, but when it gets to higher volume I get a terrible rattle and it's because there isn't enough room in the box for my sub, I need 1.5 cubic feet of air in there and I have about 1.25. It sucks! Don't put it behind your seat either, because it's cool feeling the rumble at first but afterwards you're back hurts, I'm not kidding. Here is the alternative though, it's expensive but I assure you it works. Get something like a 10" kicker solo-baric. One alone will hit like a pair of 15" and they won't rattle because they only need like .66 cubic feet of volume. My buddy had some in an S-10 standard cab and I hooked one up in mind to see how it sounded and it's the best bass I've ever heard! I HIGHLY reccomend pulling out the $300 for the sub because it is well worth it! BELIEVE ME! The difference is like night and day!
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Dak Spo Red Dodge Dakota
11/08/2001 21:22:11
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Well yes i know that the kickers do hit harder then the round subs because my freind has a car with 2 10 inch kicker solo barics in it.. and i know how that feels.. and as for the bass part hurting my back.. i dont think that will happen considering my freind is the owner of the mtx pro show competition car and his car hits 169 dbs. and i ride with him alot with the music just cranked. so that isint an issue of the bass hurting me.. i just wanna have a nice setup in my truck so i can go to car shows and have stereo as well as looks in my truck. i was also thinking of carpeting the bed of my truck and having a custom box put in thier.. but i am not to sure as to if i wanna spend the money to have that done right now. but thanks for your suggestions anyways
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
11/09/2001 01:40:39
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: sub behind console = visible
I'm not sure how you have it in your setup, but I personally always prefer a stealth install. Sure, it may look nice and atracts attention, but with that is also people you would rather NOT look at your vehicle.
Car theft is growing all over the country for the most part, I don't know why you would want to do that to your regular DD vehicle..??
6'3"! A big guy eh..heh. There are a number of subs that will fit. You could probably just fit a very shallow 10 in there just fine. There is a sub called the "Evo", but I personally do NOT like the company. Run by an idiot, but if you get a good one, it works well. Illusion Audio's, even a bass link would work. With a good 10 and a well designed box, you should be able to hit 130, which is louder than most SHOULD be listening to music anyways. Unless you are really going for an SPL competition or looking for a challenge, I wouldn't worry about hitting 169 or anything..
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james Dodge Dakota
11/14/2001 00:12:11
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: if u dont want to lose space. Get a cap and and port your subs through the wall behind the seat build box in bed and use pvc pipe to port or take back window out of truck and out of the front of cap and put a boot in so u dont get leaks and then its pretty much use what u want 10s 12s 15s then your truck can become sick loud. It might be a little work but it will sound good with time and the way u set it up
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xplikt Dodge Dakota
11/14/2001 00:32:38
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Now, I do NOT reccomend doing a cut-thru at all, but here is a link of a guy with a regular cab dakota who ported thru his cab..
http://www.geocities.com/lowlife3441/homepage.html
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R/T Dodge Dakota
11/14/2001 14:03:28
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: No, what Offroad wants is this http://www.xplodsony.com/action/dakota/
Designed by http://www.az-specialists.com
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OffRoad322 Gen III
11/14/2001 16:57:58
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: Actually, I do not want to cut through xplikt. But that is a nice job he did.
And R/T, I have a REGULAR CAB not extended cab, I can't do what that sony truck did.
I want to put two 10's in my REGULAR CAB DAK. WITH SOMEWHERE TO PUT MY AMP(s).
Paul Salmon 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport 5spd 3.9L V6
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JE_502 Dodge Dakota
11/19/2001 11:52:55
| RE: Subwoofer in a Regular Cab IP: Logged
Message: I have a 97 regular cab with bucket seats and just installed some subs in it a year ago. I have the seats pushed back all the way against the back glass, and I didn't want to have to move it forward any. So I had a box built for two Kicker square 8's to fit behind the passenger seat, and mounted my Kicker amp behind the drivers seat, because it wouldn't fit underneath it. Looks and sounds great.
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