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Raised / Lifted Dakotas
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Kowalski
GenIII
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9/24/2009
07:31:07

Subject: RE: Torsion bar Lift
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When you crank the torsion bars, there will actually be more compression distance available from the suspension. It does not make the suspension bottom out more easily. What gets limited is the extension - how much the wheel can drop down from it's usual position. So you could be more likely to "top out", with the tire having less contact at the bottom of a pot hole - not bottom out like "bwevt14" is asking.

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mario
Dodge Dakota
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9/24/2009
10:38:30

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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when i said flex i was implying that if one tire is being compressed the other is obviously dropping....and if you drove up an rti ranmp with the left front tire the right would leave the ground really soon.



Kowalski
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9/25/2009
09:16:14

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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Well, yes and no. Your flex situation is an extreme example. "Bwevt14" said he was concerned about the suspension more easily bottoming out over a bump with the torsion bar lift; that's why I explained how he will actually be less likely to bottom out over a bump. It is not true "that if one tire is being compressed the other is obviously dropping". Think of a bump on one side. In that situation, the suspension on that side is compressing, while the other side pretty much stays neutral; or maybe even compresses a little bit too due to the weight transfer.

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mario
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2009
01:31:35

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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well ya see here im also a jeep guy.....so extreme for our dakotas is everday on the trails. i was just associating the two when they are nothing alike by using the example of the rti ramp. if you know what one is you know exactly what im talking about. ur right he was talking about road bumps and i associated it with rock crawling....lol my mistake...but you know what i meant.lol



Kowalski
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9/26/2009
08:32:29

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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I know that those who are into extreme articulation are also into solid axle front end swaps for our Dakotas. Our torsion bar IFS is good on the road or easy off road, but not the extreme stuff you wanted to talk about. Might be better for you to start a new thread if you want to discuss that. lol

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mario
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2009
09:11:24

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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for sure.



phil
Dodge Dakota
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11/19/2009
00:21:33

body lift
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Hey everybody i have an 04 dakota quad cab 4x4 what is the biggest tire i can run with a 3in body lift.



Brewstar
Dodge Dakota
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12/04/2009
17:38:42

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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Hey, basically a more in dept version of phil's
question above and sorry if any of the following
questions can be answered elsewhere, but please
bear with me, I'm not a member yet and it won't
let me search the forums without logging in for
some reason.

I just got a 2000 quad cab 4x4 it has a 3inch body
lift (i think, haven't actually measured, its not
4 though) and 33x12.5x15 (approx 305/70/15) BFGs.
My bumper is already trimmed a little and it still
catches the wheel well liner up front when
reversing with the wheels fully turned. I want to
put 35s on my wheels but don't want any rubbing
with the frame (i'm fine trimming more bumper), do
you think I can fit 'em? There are no blocks in
back and the body looks level so I assume the
torsion bars haven't been tightened. I don't know
if I have any wheel spacers on now, but what is
the disadvantage of wheel spacers? Is it a
significantly weaker connection to the axle? 1/2
inch vs full inch?

Also, I will be driving in the snow a lot and
might not be able to see what I'm rolling over, if
I twist the torsion bars and [almost] top out the
front suspension should I be concerned about one
of the front tires leaving the ground if the other
one climbs over something? And is there any
significant danger of breaking any part of stock
tightened torsion bar suspension from
bottoming/topping out too hard when an unmodified
suspension would survive?

Low priority off subject after thought(LPOSAT?
LOL): is there anything really being protected by
the wheel well liner? Would I regret severely
cutting it or even removing it? Has anyone ever
bought and modified wheel well liners to fit the
cut away bumper?



Brewstar
Dodge Dakota
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12/04/2009
17:47:42

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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I'm using Google's Chrome web browser and maybe
thats the reason why I'm having trouble searching,
and my posts are formatted weirdly (they only reach
halfway across the area that other posts reach). I
know no one cares, but I forgot to check the "notify
me" button last post so I made this one to get a
notification if I get a reply. Thanks for your
patience guys, I want to be figuring this all out
soon.



Mick Jagger
Dodge Dakota
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12/05/2009
08:17:57

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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You can't always get what you want.



Brewstar
Dodge Dakota
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12/06/2009
05:22:57

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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Mick Jagger, what specifically do you mean?



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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12/07/2009
14:48:51

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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Mick didn't finish the line.

"You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what ya need."

Brewstar, sorry I can't help, I do not have a 4x4.



steven
Dodge Dakota
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12/26/2009
19:35:32

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I bought my brother an add-a-leaf for Christmas and we put it on his truck today. To even up the front I cranked the torsion bars but was only able to get about an inch out of the front. We want to lift the front about another 3/4" -1" but will have to re-index the torsion bar to do it. My problem is that I can not get the torsion bars out of the rear mount. I knocked the pin out of the LCA so that it will move forward but I cant get it to move. Should the tires be touching the ground slightly? Is there a trick to breaking the torsion bars free? I have tried beating them with the tires off the ground, slightly on the ground and with a bit more weight on them but no luck. They are the hexagon type, they dont have splines.



other bill
Dodge Dakota
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12/26/2009
21:55:40

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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Silly question:
When you adjusted your bars as far as you could, how close were you to the upper bump stops? If they were touching (mine will if I max out the adjustment), installing re-indexed keys will not help.

I have yet to hear of someone on this site maxing out their adjustments and not coming into contact with the uper stops.

As far as getting the bars out, maybe some liquid wrench and a bit of heat on the control arm to expand the hole? But I don't think you are going to simply be able to re-index the torsion bar in the control arm. I believe that is going to turn it too far to get the key and bolt back together at the back.



steven
Dodge Dakota
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12/26/2009
23:14:34

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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We are a good 2-1/2 inches away from the bump stops. Someone on another forum said something about needing a torsion bar unloader? But it seems that people on this site have gotten more lift out of their stock keys and adjustment. It just seems that I ran out of adjustment after about 5-1/2 turns on each bolt, giving about 1 inch of lift.



steven
Dodge Dakota
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12/26/2009
23:18:46

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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But let me make sure this is correct, when you max out the adjustment, the bolts will stop turning, correct? Nothing was hitting the end of the bolts or the a-arm



other bill
Dodge Dakota
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1/02/2010
12:55:15

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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steven,

When you max out the adjustment, yes the bolt will stop. You will have no thread showing between the bolt head and the torsion key.

2 1/2 inches is a LOT of distance. Are you measuring the stop on the lower or upper control arm? I have that kind of distance on my lower stop, but not my upper stop. The lower stop is larger in size than the upper.



Tukker
Dodge Dakota
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1/10/2010
11:42:19

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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how hard is it to install after market torsion keys i just ordered me some and want to do the job myself I have 99 5.2L 4x4. any special tools required and any tips for doing it



other bill
Dodge Dakota
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1/11/2010
08:14:03

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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Tukker,

If it was me, I would cancel my order and adjust what's already on my rig.

Scroll back to the beginning of this thread/ post and start reading from there. Afetmarket keys are often a waste of time and money for a Dakota, as you can usually max out the adjustment with the stock keys. GM products often can benefit from them since their stock components do not provide as much adjustment. Below is a previous post of mine found towards the front of this thread. For it to really make sense, you need to read everything from the begining.

You may:
Mash/ bust the upper bumpstops (that piece of rubber preventing metal-to-metal contact of the bottom side of the upper control arm to frame when your suspension droops)
Put undo stress on the torsion bars themselves (have a buddy who actually broke one on a Nissan)

You Will:
Be wasting your money (About $127 a pair?)
Wasting your time (removing old keys/ installing new ones)

Look through the old posts (i.e.: torsion bar lift; torsion bar keys; adjusting T bars; etc.) on Raised/ Lifted, Suspension...every so often somebody is given the idea (usally from a Non-Dakota owner) about re-indexing keys. Your Dak should be able to be raised using the stock keys. It is the Chevys that can go higher with the re-indexed parts. 'Most' Dak owners have come in contact with the upper bumpstops (the limiting point) before running out of adjustment on the factory indexed keys.

Hope this helps.




tukker
Dodge Dakota
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1/11/2010
15:22:14

RE: Torsion bar Lift
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is it just the one bolt going through the key itself that you adjust? Do you have to raise the front end off the ground when you adjust them? Do you need to get your truck realigned



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