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JJ
Dodge Dakota
11/09/2001
15:28:44
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 Subject: Torsion bars
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What’s all this talk I’ve seen about cranking the torsion bars to improve front end height? Is this something that I can do my self?
I ask because I parked beside another 2000 CC 4x4 today and was embarrassed because his front end was 2” higher than mine. I assume this is what he had done because our tail gates sat at the same level but my front end sat lower
Any instructions or links would be helpful.
Thanks
2000 4.7 4x4 CC
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Blckdak
GenIII
11/09/2001
16:52:27
| RE: Torsion bars
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Yea, you can do this yourself. Im planning on doing this weekend actually. I'll go home and look in my service manual and type where it says to measure from and I'll put what size socket you need. Unless someone else beats me to it. Also, dont try to do this without lifting the front of the truck up, you'll pop a vein. When you do go to adjust the bolt, try to start the handle of the socket driver in the same position on each side.(ex. parallel the handle to the frame and do a 1/4 of a turn clockwise & count how many 1/4 cranks you do that to the other side and hopefully they will match up) You'll still have to compare measurments on either side though.
Sorry for the long post.
Erin
2000 CC 4x4 Sport
Magnaflow Exhaust, Z-Tube, Runnin AMSOIL
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ayrow
Dodge Dakota
11/10/2001
04:09:45
|  RE: Torsion bars
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Message:
HEY! BE CAREFULL HERE!!!
I cranked my torsion bars up about three weeks ago , but did a lot of reading and research before attempting it. There are definately some things you should know first:
1.) You will HAVE to have the allignment done afterwards, no matter how much you adjust the torsion bars.
2.) Cranking up the tosion bar WILL affect your ride. The more you crank them, the tighter and bouncier the ride will be up front.
3.) You can crank them down with the vehicle on the ground. All you need is a long bar (cheater bar) and a strong 1/2" socket wrench.
4.) This has been debated, but cranking the torsion bars down has been known to put extra stress on the CV joints, thus might cause premature wear. This is the only point that I am not totally sure of because I have not experienced it first-hand. However, there have been a lot of people that will swear on it while others will tell you that there will be no harm done.
If you want my honest opinion, looking back, I wish I would have left them where they were and just put a 3" body lift on instead. The ride has gotten much stiffer and I didn't crank them up all the way.
I am going to put a 3" body lift on soon and will probably let the torsion bars back down to get that comfortable ride back.
Good Luck,
Ayrow
http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html
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Walt Felix
Dodge Dakota
11/10/2001
19:50:08
|  RE: Torsion bars
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If your trying to level the truck, Park the truck on what you know is a level surface and make sure all four tires are equally inflated. Open both doors and place a carpenter's level on the driver's door jamb. Using a 13/16 socket, tighten the anchor bolt on the driver's side until the door jamb is level. Now this is where I take an extra step. Some people say you should count the number of turns of the bolt and repeat the same number of turns on the passenger's side. This only lifts the front of the truck evenly. The object here is to level the truck, not only front to rear but also left to right. Because torsion bars will settle over time and will do so at different rates, torsion bars that were evenly adjusted at the factory, may not be even a few years later. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from the ground to the frame of the truck, just behind the front bumper. Also measure the distance between the upper control arm and the upper bump stop. With the level in the passenger's side door jamb, tighten the passenger's side anchor bolt until the jamb is level. Repeat the frame and bump stop measurements. Tighten or loosen the passenger's anchor to match the measurements from the driver's side. This will ensure the truck is level left to right. NOTE: Cranking up the torsion bars will change drive line angles and will increase the strain on front end components. Ball joints, CV-Axles and such will have a reduced service life. Also, the truck will require a front end alignment to keep the tires from wearing unevenly.
Walt Felix
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KYC
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/16/2004
19:12:33
| RE: Torsion bars
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Message:
I have a 93Dakota that I 'lifted' almost 10years ago using the torsion bars. Since then I have put 150k miles on the truck.
What did I learn?
1) YES YOU MUST REALIGN YOUR FRONT END - you just gotta do it after crankin' them bars.
2) Limiting service life of components? - not that I have noticed.. Yes, I need a complete front end rebuild - have needed it for about 1.5yrs.. But lets see how the components on your non cranked-up truck hold up after a decade and 150k miles (about 60k in 4wd).
3) 32x11.50s will fit on your stock rims.. and barely rub at full turn full compression.. buy some cheap steel rims with a 2 or 3in offset to fix that (ahem.. STEEL rims bend but don't break when you hit things - like big ass rocks! unlike stock alloy rims which make great gunshot sounds when they crack.. ahem!). PLUS this gives you a slightly wider stance - looks very tough!
4) Get taller shocks. You have a few choices.. Expensive Aftermarket shocks or cheapies from your local parts store and find a slightly taller shock. For instance - top mounting is an S4, bottom is an LS37-or-LS38-or-LS47. Stock shocks are s4/ls37/9.625in compressed/14.875in extended and travel 5.25 Monroe#32250. Monroe37068 is an extra .25 in taller with same travel. Monroe33132 ($19.99 LT warranty) is s4/ls47/11.875 compressed/19.125 extended/7.25 travel -> all via www.monroe.com
Overall I got about 4in and a little more of lift on my truck. It cost me $23.99 for 4.5in rear blocks, a $40 front end alignment and $80 for new front/rear shocks.
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bad dakota
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/16/2004
23:20:35
| RE: Torsion bars
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how long are the shocks on you truck now compared to the old ones. how much did they lift the truck
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