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Chrisjones
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2011
15:24:35
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 Subject: New torsion keys
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Message:
So I wanna lift my 1997 4x4 318 Dakota and was wondering
about new torsion keys and the effects on wear ride and all
of that good stuff. They sell the new keys on eBay for 65
dollars and I wanna get about three inches of lift out of them
along with a three inch block in the rear. I would love to clear
35x12.5x18 after a new rim purchase but I don't think that
they will fit. I guess I would need the 2inch body lift along with
this or just stick to 33s. And one more question if I did get
35s would I need to change my 3.92 stock gears? Any tips or
anything would help thanks!
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other bill
Dodge Dakota
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7/05/2011
09:52:15
|  RE: New torsion keys
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Message:
You may 'want' 3"s, but you are only going to get what the suspension limits (travel) will allow. Before you go through all the cost and effort of replacing torsion keys, have you tried adjusting with the factory keys installed 1st? Most owners find they reach the upper bump stops before running out of adjustment. The bump stops are your limiting factor, not the torsion key. Just trying to save you some labor. If you are able to fit 35's, your 3.92 gearing should be okay.
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Chrisjones
Dodge Dakota
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7/06/2011
23:06:59
|  RE: New torsion keys
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Message:
I decided that although 35s would be awesome that more
than likely will not happen, so I'm gonna stick with the rear
block and messing with the torsion bars and get 33s more
than likely. I have no done anything to the torsion bars at all
and I do not know how to "crank" them like everyone says
they do. What limitations does this put on my truck while
offroading or on the street? That's the part I'm most nervous
about
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other bill
Dodge Dakota
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7/07/2011
14:39:03
| RE: New torsion keys
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Message:
No real limitaions. Just if you go too high you reduce/ eliminate downward travel.
Crankin' the 'T' bars:
This may seem long and complicated, but it's not...just thorough in the details. It can be accomplished with basic tools while lying under your rig. With the clearance underneath and the fact that the wheels stay on you don't even need jack stands.
The torsion bars reach from your lower control arms back to the sides of the cross member that supports your transfer case. You will see large bolts (one for driver's, one for passenger's) sticking down that 'push' on the keys that are tucked up in that cross member. The steps for adjusting them are as follows:
1. Spray the threads of the bolts (top and bottom) with some WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. to aid in turning them. They will likely be hard to turn. Doing this 1st gives the penetrant time to soak into the threads on the keys.
2. Parked on a level surface take a measurement from the center of the fender lip to the ground (both sides). This is so you can compare an 'after adjustment' measurement to see how much you raised the front end AND to ensure you raised it evenly.
3. Crawl underneath just behind the front wheel and look at the upper bump stops. They are the rubber bumpers located under the rear of your upper control arms and prevent you from having metal to metal contact when the suspension is at full droop. Make a note of the open space between the control arm and the stop. As you raise the front end this space will diminish. MAKE SURE YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE UPPER AND NOT THE LOWER!
(Steps 1 thru 3 need to be done prior to jacking)
4. From the cross member in the front of your rig, jack it up until the front wheels start to leave the ground. This removes the load (heh, he said 'load') from the springs and further aids in turning the bolts.
5. Note how much thread is showing on the torsion bar adjustment bolt at the cross member. Turn the bolt in until about half the thread that was originally visible is now showing. Another option is to count the number of turns you make. A socket and ratchet (I don't remember the socket size off my head) or a breaker bar...longer handle = more leverage...to turn the bolts. If you have a pneumatic air gun it may save you physical labor.
6. Repeat step 5 on the other side.
7. Lower your rig from the jack, then drive it around the block...or in and out of the driveway...enough to cycle the suspension a bit.
8. Park it where you started, then take the wheel lip measurement again to see if there is a noticeable difference.
9. Crawl underneath and look at the upper bump stops again to see if there is room for more adjustment.
10. Repeat steps 4 through 9 until you have either:
- Reached the height you want
- Run out of threads on the adjustment bolts
- Are compressing the bump stops
NOTES:
*The higher you go the less downward travel (wheel droop) you will experience.
*The ride may be a bit (not a lot) stiffer.
*Raising it to the point of compressing the bump stops will eventually ruin them.
*Some folks feel that 'cranking the T bars' may contribute to front end components (ball joints, cv joints, tie rod ends, etc.) wearing out sooner. I personally believe it's the bigger tires that do more of that.
*A front end realignment is suggested by some. I personally had mine checked and it needed no adjustments.
*One bolt may need to be turned more than the other to get the rig level. Not all springs have the exact same compression rate or elasticity. And that is why you take measurements!
What ever height you get out of the front end is probably what size block you should add to the rear. You will also need longer U bolts. Good thing abot doing it this way is that you can do the front, yet still be able to drive it until you are able to get to the back end!
Seasoned Dak owners feel free to add anything I may have missed.
Good luck!
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dak539
Dodge Dakota
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7/22/2011
00:53:09
| RE: New torsion keys
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Message:
You have written a great post. I am going to try your idea too. Just a clarity? step 5 turn the bolts till half the thread? help me to understand. In or out? Should i see more or less threads? If i run out will i bottom out or will the nut fall off in my hand? Trying to go up and just making sure that i know what im doing.Thanks ,DAK539
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