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Dakuda
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2008
19:57:24
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 Subject: torsion bar
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Message:
how do i adjust my torsion bars on my 95 dodge dakota
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Dakuda
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2008
20:05:39
|  RE: torsion bar
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i knoiw a outh the bolt bue do i ahev to gert an aligment and how far can i go with them bfor i start to put to muych stress on ym cv joints and front diff
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.
Dodge Dakota
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3/29/2008
10:29:14
| RE: torsion bar
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Holy crap. You should teach your keyboard to spell.
1" to 1-1/2"
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dakuda
Dodge Dakota
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3/31/2008
17:07:17
| RE: torsion bar
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lol i will, another question i was told that even a half turn will give a lot of lift, is this true
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Josh
Dodge Dakota
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3/31/2008
17:28:20
| RE: torsion bar
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Possible, depending on the weight of the front of the vehicle and the torsional rigidity of the bar.
Be methodical about it. Adjust in whole turns until you get close. Easier to keep track that way. Check the distance from the highest point of the front wheel opening to the ground. Give the adjusters 2 turns. Bounce the front a bit and check the height again. Continue adjustments as necessary.
Alignment not usually required, but get one if it gives you piece of mind.
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Kowalski
GenIII
4/01/2008
15:02:38
| RE: torsion bar
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Why count turns ? It's the change in ride height after you jounce the suspension that matters. It could be a different number of turns for left and right to get the same ride height.
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
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Dakuda
Dodge Dakota
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4/01/2008
15:41:54
| RE: torsion bar
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thanks for the info another question i was thinkingh of puting a jet peformance chip in my truck, anyone have one that could tell me if they are good or a waste of money
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midwestdakota
Dodge Dakota
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8/13/2011
01:20:59
|  RE: torsion bar
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How exactly do you adjust the torsion bars. I've been searching through the posts for over an hour now. Mine is dipping on the LH side. Where is the bolt and do you just need a rachet with what size socket and which direction to raise it? I'm new to this type of thing but I can turn a wrench. lol Thanks for any help.
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Fitz51
GenI
9/20/2011
23:41:39
| RE: torsion bar
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couple quick questions.
1. when replacing or removing torsion key on a 2001 Dakota do you really need a tension removal tool? Looks like the way it is set up if you just slowly loosen the bolt while jacked up you should be able to relieve the tension and remove the key and bar if desired. Am I correct?
2. Truck is 10 years old with 118,000 miles on it but in really good shape. Got it for my son's first car and we've been doing things here and there...great time together. Question is do torsion bars ever really lose enough of their rigidness to the point of having to be replaced?
3. Friend works in a Dodge parts dept. Asked him if the torsion bars are different between the v6 and v8 models and he said they seemed to be the same and guessed that the height for each set up was adjusted by the torsion bolt. Is that accuarate?
Nice little truck and I don't want to lift it. Leveling would be fine as I have a new set of wheels and tires coming in for it. Stock is a 16 wheel and a 31" tire. Going to a 17" wheel and a 32" Nitto Terra Grapler. So with the different not being too dramatic I was hoping leveling and torsion techniques will do the trick. Any comments...constructive comments? Thanks.
Jeff
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other bill
Dodge Dakota
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9/21/2011
16:30:41
| RE: torsion bar
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Fitz,
1. When I installed the suspension lift on my `95, I did just as you suggested...put it up on jack stands and released the pressure by unscrewing the adjuster bolt. Have you tried adjusting the existing setup 'up' 1st? Most Dakota owners have had success without replacing the keys.
2. Although 'some' saggaing may occur over the life of the pickup, unless it was abused, overloaded, or jumped...I doubt replacing them would make any noticable difference.
3. There have been folks post on here that they went from V6 to V8 torsion bars in their V6 equipped rigs. I would ask your parts guy to look them up again. The parts 'puter should 'ask' if he is looking for a V6 or V8.
Bottom line: Try adjusting what you currently have in place. Just watch that you don't crush the upper bump stops at the rear of the upper control arms.
Good luck!
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Fitz51
GenI
9/23/2011
00:09:52
| RE: torsion bar
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Message:
Thanks for the reply. Here is where I am at. When I noticed the car was leaning a little to the right it was down an inch I discovered after measuring. So I actually only tightened the passenger side torsion bolt and got it spot on. It was not touching the upper control arm bumper but was only about a half an inch away from it. on the driver side it was about a 1.25" between the bumper and the arm. Is this a problem? I have about another half inch left on the passenger torsion bolt before it stops and maybe about 3/4" on the driver side. Upon inspection a lot of the bushings could really stand to be replaced too.
Also, when I cranked the passenger side torsion bolt not only did the truck become level left to right but it also seemed to level out and be higher in the front compared to before. Can correcting one side affect the height of both sides overall? But then again when I actually measured it the driver's side height was static and the passenger side was the only side to raise an inch to become equal.
So I have a few more turns with the stock torsion keys left. Is the general rule of thumb as far as upper control arm bumpers to not touch at all? have a minimum spacing? or just not being crushed?
I also figure with the way this works indexed keys wouldn't matter because it would just get me to my maxed out point sooner than later. The way it's sitting I think the 17x9 wheels with 32" Nitto Terra Graplers should be ok?
Thanks,
Jeff
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other bill
Dodge Dakota
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9/29/2011
11:51:53
| RE: torsion bar
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If you have a significant gap difference in the bump stops, yet the rig sits level...on level ground, I would wonder if something (suspension, frame, mounting points) is bent or damaged. If it were bushings worn you would notice play in the steering when braking and/ or while driving.
Yes. When adjusting one corner, just like lifting a box at one corner, it can affect (to a lesser extent) the two adjacent corners.
A suspension specialist is going to tell you you need some distance between the stops. Downward travel can be just as important as upward travel in maintaining road contact with the tire. You will likely notice your rig rides a little bit stiffer than before you made the adjustment. Each driver has their own tolerances. As long as you are not 'mashing the stop', and feel comfortable with the ride I wouldn't worry too much about it. Bear in mind that if/ when you load the bed, you may ride with the front end a bit higher than what you were used to. Again, personal preferences prevail.
You're analysis of the indexing keys is spot on. As for your tire and wheel combo fitting...that diameter tire will likely fit...provided the wheels backpacing (how far in it goes over the spindle) is near the original wheels backspacing. If it has significantly less (say 3 1/2" vice 5") backspacing than the stock wheel, you may experience some rubbing at the rear wheel opening (outer fender) when turning or while entering/ exting areas that have a pronounced dip.
Hope this helps.
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