From | Message |
Rocky Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/11/2006 22:35:50
|
Subject: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: i have a 94 3.9 cc. shortly after i bought the truck i noticed that it was leaning toward the driver side. i was going to try and raise the driverside up but the bar wouldn't adjust up any more so i had to lower the right side. i know the truck is setting lower than it origanally did. I was woundering where i could find torsion bars for it.
|
Soldier Boy Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/12/2006 03:04:12
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: you probably only need the keys, you can crank the bars to a certain point without the keys, to go past that point u need em, id try takin it to a alignment shop and seein if they could crank em back up and level it out for ya before you go buyin the bars or the keys, the keys are like 160 bucks give or take. hope it helps
|
Walt_Felix Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/14/2006 15:24:59
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: If your torsion bars are worn to the point where you can't crank them any higher, they're worn out and should be replaced. While using keys with worn torsion will allow you to raise the front end up a little more, the weakened torsion bars will allow for more body roll when cornering. In this instance, keys are nothing more than a band-aid fix of the real problem, worn out torsion bars.
The only place I've found replacements is the dealer and last time I bought bars they were about $125 a side. The V6 & V8 bars are the same physical size, just differences in the spring rates. You'll be able to upgrade by getting the 2000lb V8 bars instead of ordering a direct replacement of you stock bars which are probably 1450lb V6 bars.
FWIW, keys are a waste of money for Dodge trucks. Dodges have far more stock adjustability with the torsion bar front suspensions than GM trucks do. With the stock keys and good torsion bars, you can crank the front up to the limit of the suspension (the point where the upper control arm contacts the upper bump stop). Keys won't give you any more adjustability there. On GMs the anchor bolts are much shorter and will max out before the control arm contacts the bump stop. That's where the keys come in handy, they give GM torsion bars more adjustability.
<p align="center"><font class="nf" face="verdana, arial, helvetica" size="2">__________________<br>
Walt Felix
<a href="http://www.Walt-n-Ingrid.Com" target="_blank">http://www.Walt-n-Ingrid.Com</a>
<a href="http://dodgetruckworld.com/waltfelix" target="_blank">http://dodgetruckworld.com/waltfelix</a>
<a href="http://www.Walt-n-Ingrid.Com" target="_blank"><img alt src="http://www.walt-n-ingrid.com/WnIBanner.gif" border="0"></a></font></p>
|
Catfish Craig Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/15/2006 15:36:53
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: OK Walt I understand what you said but…I had an S-15 Jimmy with the TB set up. I bought heavy duty TB and keys and lifted the front 4 inches above stock.
So... here is a question about my 2002 QC 4x4 for thought. Why can't I "reclock" the TB/keys and lift the front say 3 inches above stock and just add blocks instead of buying a 1500 dollar kit. I have studied the front end and it seems reasonable that this would work since I have about 3 inches to the stops. Where is the hole in this plan?
|
8banger GenIII
1/15/2006 21:05:46
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: I would only go 2", you don't want to ride around on the bumpstops, you want some travel. I went 2" with 2" blocks and its perfect. Then throw on some 32"s and you're good to go.
03 Dakota 4X4 QC SportPlus 4.7L 3.55 LSD AWD Superchipped, 2Chamber Flowmaster Dumped, K&N Drop-in, 2" Torsion/Blocks Lift, BFG AT/KO's 265/75/16
My 4X4's Baptism
|
Gunner Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/16/2006 08:22:39
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: 8banger-
I was thinking of cranking my t-bars 2" and putting a 1" lift block in the rear. I thought that this way, the truck would be raised up a little and sit pretty level. Would you still recommmend the 2" blocks in the rear? I don't want my truck to sit up higher in the back. Also, with cranking the t-bars 2", am I going to have any problems with the control arms/bump stops when I'm off-roading? I have a 2000 Dakota RC 4x4 V6 on 31" tires right now if that helps. Thanks.
|
Walt_Felix Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/16/2006 11:08:59
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: Your maximum suspension extension limit is determined by the height of the upper bump stops in relation to the upper control arms, which is a constant because the upper control arm pivots on a fixed point on the frame and the bump stops are part of the frame. Since you can max out against the bump stops with the stock anchors, keys are a waste of money because they won’t allow you to go any further beyond that point anyhow.
However, you don’t want to crank the bars to the point where the control arm is in contact with the upper bump stop at ride height anyhow. For stability, the suspension needs a reasonable amount of both upward and downward travel. Every time you hit a bump, the suspension will compress then extend to handle the shock load. If, at ride height, the upper control arm is contacting the upper bump stop, it will prevent the suspension from extending beyond that point, causing the tire to briefly loose full contact with the surface.
Another effect of cranking the torsion bars is you actually decrease the amount of suspension travel. While the extension limit is established by the upper bump stops, the compression limit is determined by the spring rate of the torsion bars. Lets say hypothetically, the front suspension has 8” travel at stock ride height. If you crank the bars up 2”, you now only have 6” of travel because the height of the upper bump stops is a constant. Over cranking the bars will affect ride and handling.
Walt Felix
http://www.Walt-n-Ingrid.Com
|
8banger GenIII
1/16/2006 15:27:46
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: Gunner
Mine sits a little higher in the back with the 2" block, so go with 1" if you want it level. If I were you I would crank the t-bars first and see if you like the stance, you can always add the blocks later.
03 Dakota 4X4 QC SportPlus 4.7L 3.55 LSD AWD Superchipped, 2Chamber Flowmaster Dumped, K&N Drop-in, 2" Torsion/Blocks Lift, BFG AT/KO's 265/75/16
My 4X4's Baptism
|
Catfish Craig Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/16/2006 19:37:32
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: Thanks to Walt for the explanation. So it seemed many are getting 2" from the TB turn up. So I'll guess with Rancho 3" and $1500 bucks for the extra 1" lift. I wonder if anyone with a Rancho actually got more than the advertised 3".
CC
|
Gunner Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/16/2006 20:06:14
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: Thanks 8banger and Walt for the good info. I will let you know what I decide to do and how it turns out. Thanks again.
|
drew Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
10/28/2006 18:34:07
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: When you guys are talking 2" torsion bar and blocks, did you crank them up with the stock keys or new ones
|
Kowalski GenIII
10/30/2006 17:37:11
| RE: torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: Got close to 2" extra front height cranking my stock parts - no keys needed.
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
|
chris Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
7/20/2007 06:29:57
| torsion bars IP: Logged
Message: i have an 04 2wd that i would like to lift 2", the truck will obviously not see much off roading so the suspension travel that i lose is really not an issue, i want to keep the raked look so i would like 2" blocks also, my question is will this lift be practical for everyday use ? i know i will lose a little handling but is it still ok for regular road driving ? any advice or comments would be appreciated.
|
| P 1 |
|
Post a reply to this message:
Username Registration: Optional All visitors are allowed to post messages
|