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Ryan
Dodge Dakota
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11/23/2004
22:44:48
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 Subject: Pictures 1991-1996
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Does anyone have any pictures of a 1991-1996 Dodge Dakota that he either a 4in suspension or a body lift or both?
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tj
Dodge Dakota
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11/29/2004
10:39:52
|  RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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yes i have a 95 with a trailmaster 4" susp.and a 2" procomp body lift
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other bill
Dodge Dakota
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11/29/2004
11:20:48
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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I also have a 95 (ext cab) with the 4" + 2" with 33's. It can be seen on the GlassworksUnlimited web site. Would like to install an add-a-leaf to the rear and tweek the T-bars up front(get another 1" or so), but am afraid it will ride too stiff.
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Ryan Reed
Dodge Dakota
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11/29/2004
21:51:49
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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I like the pictures at GlassworksUnlimited are thoes different fenders i like them where can i get some
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Mudman
Dodge Dakota
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11/30/2004
13:51:26
|  RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Your kidding, Right?
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Walt_Felix
Dodge Dakota
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11/30/2004
13:59:42
|  RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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I think you can get them at http://www.glassworksunlimited.com/
Walt
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other bill
Dodge Dakota
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12/02/2004
13:32:17
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Yes. That was the whole idea of putting the pictures on their web-site....to show what they offer. Good assumption Walt. he he
They are much farther out compared to stockers (a good 4"s). Unfortunately for Glassworks Unlimited I am in MD, not CA. So I can't come down to their shop and "model" for anybody. They fit very well, but do take some work to install. It does get some "looks" here on the east coast.
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92Dakota4x4
GenII
12/10/2004
00:24:09
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Check my website..... http://home.earthlink.net/~btm0106/
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Walt_Felix
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2004
09:43:46
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Hey Brad,
How's it going? You still have the plans for your rear bumper kicking around? I want to build one for my '88. I like your design and want to have something like it.
Walt
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92Dakota4x4
GenII
12/14/2004
18:30:24
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Message:
Hey Walt, I've still got the cardboard model I built to use as a "guide" Are you going to get down here anytime soon? I'll give you the cardboard model. I also have some steel tube I used for the top pieces, can probably give you enough for your bumper.We had to special order it in a 20' length, split it with my buddy.
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Walt_Felix
Dodge Dakota
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12/17/2004
10:20:09
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Message:
No, I'm not going to make it down that way this winter but let me give my dad a shout and see if I can have him meet up with you sometime. He's at his winter place in Silver Springs and will be heading back up north in the spring.
I just took the front end apart my '88 to build a new front bumper. I had fabricated a front receiver last year to mount a removable 9000lbs electric winch but was not happy with the height when off-road. The winch was too low and greatly reduced my approach angle. I also moved the spare tire to a rear receiver mounted carrier and had the same problem with that. Plus, being receiver mounted, it made it difficult to get at items in the bed. I've been designing a new front bumper with a built in receiver which should move the winch up about 10-12” from where it was. I still want it to be removable so I can move it to the rear of the truck if so needed. I like your idea of a swing away tire carrier on the rear and was think along the same lines. I’ll probably expand on it some and add additional brackets to carry my High-Lift jack and maybe a fuel can if there is enough room.
BTW... your truck is looking great. I like the new paint scheme.
I’ll email you after the holidays to make arrangements.
Thanks,
Walt
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other bill
Dodge Dakota
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12/22/2004
11:41:57
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Message:
Hey Walt,
It looks like you added traction bars. Where did you get those? I'll bet they work better than those clamp to the spring hooyas. I can "feel" the axle wrap on mine with the suspension lift.
Do you have a picture of that Trailmaster skid plate? I didn't realize they had one.
Last question and I gotta go....You get any water intrusion into the bed around the roll bar? That is the only question keeping me from adding one.
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Walt_Felix
Dodge Dakota
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12/22/2004
23:06:53
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Message:
I hadn’t updated my webpage with some of the upgrades from last summer but will do so eventually. I’ll probably just copy and paste this post.
The rear torque bars I made with 2” solid chrome molly bars, cut to 48” length, drilled and tapped on both ends to accept heavy duty spherical rod ends with ¾” holes. I don’t think I ever got an up-close photo of the bars themselves so I’ll have to do that when I get a chance. On the frame, I attached them to a new cross member I fabricated out of 2”x4” .25” walled square stock, .25” plate and 1 ½” angle iron. I first designed the piece using wood and then made the final piece out of steel when I had a design I liked.
Here’s the wood model:
and here’s the final powder coated steel piece:
I designed it with 3 purposes in mind.
1: To reinforce the existing torsion bar cross member and support the rear of the torsion bar anchor lift brackets. The existing cross member was bent and mangled and the lift brackets for the anchors were prone to bending back when caught on rocks. The new piece is butted right up behind them and prevents them from bending back. You can see, the front brackets have holes in them already for possible future use as a mounting point for the lower links of a 4-link Straight axle suspension.
2: A mounting point for the rear torque bars. You can see the ¾” holes in the angled brackets to the rear. Eventually, they will be used for a five-link rear axle suspension that will replace the rear leafs. There will also be 4 additional mounting bolts, through the side plates and frame. I’ve left them un-drilled for now as I may move this cross member forward some when I do the straight axle conversion. For now, there are 6 – 3/4” Grade 8 bolts through the bottom holding it to the frame. The bolts are really there to keep it from shifting as the final piece fit so tightly; I had to use a big floor jack to press it onto the frame.
3: A mounting point for a skid plate. The angle iron sections on the lower part of the cross member above were drilled to mount the skid place to. The skid plate itself is a large (and heavy) piece of ¼” plate steel, cut 62” long and 22” wide. Other than painting it black and stenciling “IF YOU CAN READ THIS, ROLL MY ASS BACK OVER!” in 1” red letters on the underside, it’s just a flat piece of steel. It attaches to the new cross member at the rear and to the replacement cross member, at the front, that is part of the Trailmaster lift kit. I wanted something to reinforce that cross member, as it had to be replaced after getting split on a rock the first time out. I also added the optional Trailmaster Skid plate that connects to the lower radiator support and that same cross member. The goal was to provide as much protection to the front cross member as possible.
However, the Trailmaster skid plate will now have to be remade as it too was subject to rock damage. My big complaint with the Trailmaster products has been they are too flimsy for off-road use. All of their pieces are made out of 1/8” steel vs. 1/4” steel used for the pieces I fabricated. The Trailmaster skid plate caved in on a rock, again, first time out after installing it. Other than a few scratches, the pieces I made are exactly as they were when mounted.
The torque bars are bolted in with ¾” Grade 8 bolts. On the axle, they connect to the front of the brackets that are part of the dual shock kit Trailmaster also offered. I haven’t damaged these yet but am considering making new ones out of heaver steel before I do. You can see them in this photo from before the bars were installed.
I also tied them into the mounts for the Con-Ferr axle truss which is a part for a Jeep that I modified to fit the Dodge 8 ¼” rear. Basically, I armored the whole underside of the truck. The rear torque bars are solid enough that they will support the weight of the truck. I had both rear wheels off the ground with the weight of the rear of the truck sitting on the bars. Dragging them over rocks
All I did was scratch a little paint off the bars.
With all these pieces connected to each other like they are, I get zero axle wrap. It does limit axle travel slightly though it hasn’t been an issue yet.
I did get a slight amount of water intrusion in the bed when crossing the pit, but that’s mostly because the front of the bed is so caved in from junk slamming against it, it almost touches the back of the cab in the center. The seal around the bottom of the panel has long been split apart. Despite that, items in the bed were not any wetter than they are after a day of rain on the touneau cover. A little water gets in around where it’s cut to fit the bars. In any event, it was minimal. Eventually, when I do the 5-link rear, I’ll be cutting a large hole in the floor of the bed to mount a fuel cell for the stock tank would interfere with the travel of the wishbone bar.
__________________
Walt Felix
http://www.MoparsinMotion.Com
http://www.Walt-n-Ingrid.Com
    
Note: I very frequently get email from people asking about the lift kit in my
’88. Typically, I will NOT respond the emails (about 90%) that ask questions
I’ve already covered on my web pages (ie. Where did you get the kit?, Who
makes it?, How much did it cost?, What modifications did you have to make to get it to fit your truck?. How hard was it to install? What problems did you
encounter? etc, etc...)
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Walt_Felix
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
12/22/2004
23:23:54
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
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Message:
I wanted to add a comment about the rock slider/nerf bars I fabricated. Again, 2”x4” .25” walled square stock. 5 pieces, cut 22-1/2 degrees on the ends except where they are welded to the frame. As you can tell in the photo above, there is no frame flex either. The bars will hold the weight of the truck as well. I know because I lifted the whole truck off the ground with a big fork lift to test that theory. You can also see the main skid plate underneath and how the rear torque bars tie into the cross member.
__________________
Walt Felix
http://www.MoparsinMotion.Com
http://www.Walt-n-Ingrid.Com
Note: I very frequently get email from people asking about the lift kit in my
’88. Typically, I will NOT respond the emails (about 90%) that ask questions
I’ve already covered on my web pages (ie. Where did you get the kit?, Who
makes it?, How much did it cost?, What modifications did you have to make to get it to fit your truck?. How hard was it to install? What problems did you
encounter? etc, etc...)
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Greg
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
12/24/2004
01:19:45
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
IP: Logged
Message:
What is the biggest tire size i can fit on my 1996 dodge with a 4in susp and a 2in body without cutting?
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JOSEVENTENILL
Dodge Dakota
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3/09/2011
19:48:53
| 1991 dodge dakota sport 5.2l 4X2
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Message:
I AM LOOKING FOR THE REAR OEM CHROME TUBULAR BUMPER NEW OR USED IN GRADE A CONDITION.WILL PAY TOP DOLLAR FOR ANYONE WHO HAS IT.USED BUMPER MUST HAVE NO DENTS,RUST,PEELING CHROME OR DISCOLORATION.
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Cooper
Dodge Dakota
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4/06/2016
22:07:09
| RE: Pictures 1991-1996
IP: Logged
Message:
Hey i want to lift my 88 dakota 4x4. They
dont make any lifts that i know of any
suggestions
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