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Tracy H
Dodge Dakota
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8/25/2003
22:07:44
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 Subject: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Ok, I've had my PA 3" body lift on for a couple of months now and am just now getting around to having the transfer case shift linkage fixed. I'm looking for someone who has done this with success and can give me some helpful advice. Simply making the linkage 3" larger does not work, at least it didn't for me. The "angles" are too different now for that to work properly. Thanks to anyone who can helpout and here is a CAD drawing showing the problem that I'm dealing with.
~Tracy
'00 4x4 SLT QC 4.7 Auto 3.55LSD *My Dak Pics*
3" PA Body Lift, BFG AT 33x12.5 on AE 15x8 149's, Cranked Torsion Bars, Gibson Dual Rear Stainless Catback, Stainless K&N Clone Intake, Jeep H.O. Cams, Fastman 68mm TB, Removed Clutch Fan & Rubber Flap, Relocated IAT, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk Pads, Autolite 3923s, Stant 180° T-stat, ProComp ES-9000 Shocks, Clear Corners, T-Rex Stainless Nerf Bars ... 4.10 gears to be installed when I find the $$$
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wade
Dodge Dakota
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8/25/2003
22:35:45
|  RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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hey do you have an automatic?, if so what body lift kit did you install? will i have the problem you are describing on my 03 qc with auto trans?
and finally how happy are you with the body lift, have you ran into any problems?
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Tracy H
Dodge Dakota
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8/26/2003
09:12:11
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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I do have an automatic and the Performance Accessories 3" body lift. You will not have this problem, because you do not have shift lever in the floor board, you have an electric transfer switch. The body lift is great, but the instructions really suck if you ask me. There are several steps that I found not necessary and the pictures were small and not of my year of truck. I guess they got the job done, but they could be much better. The only real problems that I've had is this one and the radiator hose extension. I wish I would have never attempted to extend the hose, because the outside diameter of the extension piece they provided is larger than the inside diameter of the radiator hose by a 1/2". BIG PROBLEM! I got it on there, but it was a bi*ch. I have since removed the clutch fan and installed a 180° t-stat. Had I done those 2 things before the body lift, I could have skipped the hose extension and the fan shroud trim (very messy). All in all, I'm very happy with the lift and the 33s. Check out my pics if wanna see what it looks like.
~Tracy
'00 4x4 SLT QC 4.7 Auto 3.55LSD *My Dak Pics*
3" PA Body Lift, BFG AT 33x12.5 on AE 15x8 149's, Cranked Torsion Bars, Gibson Dual Rear Stainless Catback, Stainless K&N Clone Intake, Jeep H.O. Cams, Fastman 68mm TB, Removed Clutch Fan & Rubber Flap, Relocated IAT, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk Pads, Autolite 3923s, Stant 180° T-stat, ProComp ES-9000 Shocks, Clear Corners, T-Rex Stainless Nerf Bars ... 4.10 gears to be installed when I find the $$$
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Lattimer
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2003
13:24:33
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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I'm not sure if your truck might be a bit different or what, but I didn't even need to modify my linkage on my 2000 CC 4x4. I just adjusted the linkage out as far as it woul dgo, and it is fine.
If you add the 3", it should actually be a little too long, and you just adjust the slider to get it where it needs to be.
Shawn
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Tracy H
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2003
14:08:58
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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The CC must be different than the QC, because although the linkage was long enough after I did the lift, I was unable to shift out of 2wd. You are right that it is now too long, but that is a mute point because no matter how I adjust the slider I can't get it into each of the gears. :(
The main problem is shifting from 4wdHI into 2wd, because at that point the transfer case arm is almost horizontal and the linkage & shift lever are trying to "push" it back (to the rear). The new angle is making this near impossible. My torsion bars are cranked too, so I'm sure that is making the angle greater and making this problem worse. I thought about bending the linkage into a somewhat "Z" shape, but not sure if that will help since it pivets at both ends were the rubber bushings are. This is really pi**ing me off!
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Lattimer
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2003
17:50:43
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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OK, I see what you are talking about, and maybe your truck is a lot different.
On my truck, the angles were no problem at all. I really don't see how the angles would be different between a CC and a QC. The shifter and transfer case are still in the same spot, or at least I thought so.
Is it possible that the arm on the t-case is not in the correct position? I mean that it is rotated to a different angle than it should be at the 2wd position. I don't recall exactly what it looked like, but maybe you could change its angle and that would solve your issue.
The angle of the shifter is pretty much fixed at a given gear, and the length of the rod is adjustable, so you would best solve the issue if you could change the initial angle of the t-case lever. I'm not sure of the bst way to do this, as I have never looked at mine in great detail before. I'll be under the truck this Sunday doing some work, so I'll look at it and see if I have any ideas.
By the way, I don't think bending the connecting rod will help at all, you are still in a dead zone of angular rotation. It will always be diffcult to move from the position you are at.
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Tracy H
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2003
19:07:43
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Message:
Actually the shifter is not in the same location that is was before, as it is now 3" higher than it used to be ... just like the picture above shows. It is not possible for the transfer casr arm to move, because it only attach to the transfer case one way. My picture does not show that exact right. The bottom end of the arm is actually slotted to fit onto the slot on the transfer case. Thanks for trying to help.
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Lattimer
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2003
22:21:56
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Message:
I understand what you are saying, and I understand that the vertical position of the shifter has changed. However, on my truck, this did not make a problem like it has with yours.
What I meant was that the angle of the shifter at a given gear position is the same as before the lift.
What I don't understand, is what is so different about your truck compared to mine that you have this problem with the angles that won't allow your shifter to move. It seems as if something is out of whack.
I'm a mechanical engineer, so problems like this interest me.
The part I am having difficulty with is why the transfer case arm is at such an angle that you have this problem. Mine doesn't have this problem, so I am trying to see what is different. Do you have a digital camera? If so, send me some pics of how yours looks.
I'm sure there is a solution, and I'm sure I can help you out if I can get enough information. I fix problems like this for a living, and I'm still employed, so I think I am at least OK at it.....LOL
Email me at slattimer@yahoo.com, we will see if we can figure something out.
Shawn
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Tracy H
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2003
22:54:14
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Message:
Thanks for your help Shawn. I will take some digital pictures tomorrow and send them to you. The picture above is a fairly accurate diagram of where the arm is at when its in 2wd. 4wdHI makes the arm move forward and more horizontal. Neutral and 4wdLO push the arm back and make it more vertical. I'll try to show this as best I can with the digital pictures.
If I could only figure out how to lengthen the shift lever, even an inch or 2, I think that the problem would be solved, but I can't think of a good way to do this without having to remove the whole lever from the truck.
Thanks again, Tracy
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Lattimer
Dodge Dakota
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8/28/2003
09:21:49
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Message:
What does your shift pattern look like?
Mine is like below from front of the truck to rear:
4-lo
N
2-hi
4-hi
Is yours the same? If not, that may be why this isn't working out well.
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Tracy H
Dodge Dakota
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8/28/2003
09:42:46
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Mine is the same. I'm working on the pictures, but having a little difficulty getting them to come out clearly. I'll get some sent to you shortly.
Have you cranked your torsion bars at all? I have, so I think that it is adding to the problem, because it is raising the front end even more.
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Lattimer
Dodge Dakota
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8/28/2003
16:58:38
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Actually, the torsion bars will have nothing to do with this. Mine are cranked as well.
The torsion bars only change the suspension height, they will not move the relationship between the body and the frame. I got your pics. I will get under my truck on sunday and see how mine looks compared to yours.
We will come up with something.
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Ric
Dodge Dakota
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8/30/2003
17:09:30
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Tracy, where did you get you step up bars, how much are they? your truck is nice!!! 'm doing the same lift just procomp mud terrain and 15x 10's, i would like to have step bars and i like yours.
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4x4x4dr
GenIII
8/30/2003
18:25:33
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Ric,
Thanks for the compliments! It's been my on and off project since the beginning of the year.
I bought the bars off ebay for $195 shipped. There is almost always a set on there ... 4 or 5 right now. Just do a search for "dakota nerf bars" and the guy that I bought them from is user: yourwheelman. You can't beat the price and they are pretty nice. Only complaint is that the plastic steps are kinda curled up on each end and don't sit flush with the bar. I've yet to figure out how to fix it, if there even is a way.
Good luck with the lift. I'm fairly certain you are going to be doing some heavy trimming with the 15x10's. Let me know how that works out.
~Tracy
'00 4x4 SLT QC 4.7 Auto 3.55LSD *My Dak Pics*
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Ric
Dodge Dakota
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9/01/2003
21:06:33
| RE: 2000 4x4 Body Lift problem
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Ok thanks. I will let you know, it should be within the most 2 weeks.
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