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Raised / Lifted Dakotas
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2THEXTRM GenIII
2/04/2003 18:15:52
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Subject: 2001+ Moog BJ Part#s Needed IP: Logged
Message: I tried the ever enlarging vast search function for this issue and am looking for the part#'s someone has used for their 2001+ Dak and the best place to buy for price. I want to replace all the ball joints at the same time I install Rancho lift, I obviously have a few weeks to get them:) Thanks.
Flowmaster cat back w/15 inch chrome tip, Volant Intake, Poweraid TB Spacer, Splitfire Plugs, full synthetic fluids 3 inch body/1.5 inch Block Lift, 305 70-16 X-Terrains on AR Terons, Pro Comp ES9000's Grizzly double/single rollbar with (6) Hella's, Manik Nerfs, Line-X, Hard Work & $$$$$$$$$$
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2THEXTRM GenIII
2/06/2003 10:54:29
| RE: 2001+ Moog BJ Part#s Needed IP: Logged
Message: Ok, how bout anyone who has a 97+ 4x4 that installed moogs? I'll take those part#'s and any install tips as they should be the same, I guess I'll know when I get everything apart:)
Flowmaster cat back w/15 inch chrome tip, Volant Intake, Poweraid TB Spacer, Splitfire Plugs, full synthetic fluids 3 inch body/1.5 inch Block Lift, 305 70-16 X-Terrains on AR Terons, Pro Comp ES9000's Grizzly double/single rollbar with (6) Hella's, Manik Nerfs, Line-X, Hard Work & $$$$$$$$$$
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97_blk_dak GenIII
2/06/2003 14:17:09
| RE: 2001+ Moog BJ Part#s Needed IP: Logged
Message: Check out this thread over at DakotaTrucks.com. If you can explain to Timberwolf how to do an attachment, he will send you documentation that he did when he changed his. I'm sure he can tell you the part numbers as well.
1997 5.2L V8 4X4 CC My Dakota Pics
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rivermaniac Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
2/06/2003 15:15:08
| RE: 2001+ Moog BJ Part#s Needed IP: Logged
Message: I used Moog, but have heard the TRW's are nice too. Part numbers are upper - 7242 & lower - 7267 for 4X4. I'm not 100% sure on those numbers, but I'm pretty sure. Rockauto & autoparts-site.com both have them for the same price @ about $40 apiece and they can tell you if the numbers are correct. Autozone will loan you a press for free. you just have to leave a $100 deposit until you bring it back. The lowers are IMPOSSIBLE to do without it. But a breeze with it. I don't have pictures on the web, but I can email them to you if you want.
Just did it last weekend. My lowers are pressed in, but the uppers should be the same. You really don't need air chisels, grinders or anything else like that. I have all that stuff too, but found the quickest & the easiest way is as follows:
1. Take a center punch and hit it in the center of each rivet. Take care to line it up exactly in the center.
2. Use a 5/16 or 3/8 bit to drill down until you are level with where the ball joint plate meets the control arm. The rivets are pretty soft, so they are easy to drill and even easier to chisel.
3. Take a cold chisel and hit the rivet(from the side obviously). I only had to hit them 2 to 3 times each and they just popped off.
4. If you have anti-lock brakes be careful hooking it back up. I didn't get the feed wire in the clip tight enough and cut it and I had to take it apart again to solder it. I'm not sure this will even be an issue on a 2wd, but just be careful with it. One last thing, use your jack to push up on the whole assembly to guide the new ball joint pin into the steering knuckle. Other than that, everything is pretty straight forward. If you have any more questions, let me know.
I heard nothing but how hard it was to remove the rivets, but it was a very pleasant surprise that it was alot easier than I expected.
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2THEXTRM GenIII
2/06/2003 15:26:41
| RE: 2001+ Moog BJ Part#s Needed IP: Logged
Message: Thanks guys, think I will do some shopping tonight:)
Flowmaster cat back w/15 inch chrome tip, Volant Intake, Poweraid TB Spacer, Splitfire Plugs, full synthetic fluids 3 inch body/1.5 inch Block Lift, 305 70-16 X-Terrains on AR Terons, Pro Comp ES9000's Grizzly double/single rollbar with (6) Hella's, Manik Nerfs, Line-X, Hard Work & $$$$$$$$$$
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